• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.721-736
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.53-65
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• 2004

As the contemporary public consensus prefers individuality to classical things, they have gotten sick of the universality and pursue fashion anew. As a result the new concept of artistic value delivers a shock to ordinary and traditional images. The bizarreness culture of fashion contains two extremes, horror and humor. which make people uneasy but amused by sensuous descriptions. Bizarre things captivate the audience regardless of the violent stimuli. The conversion of aesthetic consciousness is brought accordingly by horror and humor. In this paper, It is discussed that the concept of history of bizarreness and the social effect from its phenomena in current fashion are expressed through the two methods above. The bizarreness phenomena in current fashion is shown as a new hybrid type which has been recreated and came out of the internet. This phenomena has caused abnormal results and ironically mixed products, what was once directness, violence and disgust, are on the other hand enjoyment and amusement. A widening field, the bizarreness phenomenon, as an important implication in which can completely change the current trend, will be on track as a crucial concept representing contemporary cultures.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2016

This study looks into the Korean traditional costume formation and the thoughts of the Korean people that form the foundation of that Korean traditional costume formation. And the goal of this study is in linking the thoughts and formative characteristics reflected in the Korean traditional costume formation to the fractal geometry, in an attempt to reveal correlation between Korean traditional costume formation which have existed for thousands of years to contemporary science of the West. The fractal theory that appeared as the new paradigm of contemporary science displayed similarities with the traditional ideologies of Korea, and the fact that formation principles of fractal appear in the formation of Korean costume, formed based on the Korean ideologies, show magnanimous capacity of the traditional Korean culture. When we look at the concept of fractal, the word fractal refers to the structure in which the shape repeats, where small structure is similar to the whole structure in form in endlessly repeating structure. In other words, 'fractal' means a structure that geometrically untangles the concept of 'self-similarity' which possesses the same shape in parts and in whole, and its major characteristics include 'self-similarity', 'circularity' and 'repeatability'. Korean costumes were formed based on the Han-thoughts, with a structure that possesses parts within the whole and the whole within parts, in accordance with the self-similarity theory of 'fractal'. This study compared studied fractal phenomenon which appear in formation characteristics of Korean traditional costume, which were formed based on the Korean traditional ideology, in other words, Korean costume formation and formation principles of fractal geometry were compared studied.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

In view of our contemporary fashion, it is found that crossover between clothing and other items leads to creation of a new design and crossover of various cultural codes, ultimately creating a multicultural clothing design or any external outline of emerging costume designs by attempting mutual combination with other fields. Starting from a viewpoint that mutual combination style has significant effects on our contemporary fashion designs, this study intends to characterize external aspects of fashion design that changes through mutual combination style. This study focused upon analyzing costumes released by contemporary fashion designers after 2000, and addressed a variety of mutual combination styles. It gives various examples on mutual combination in fashion, seeking first to look into typical examples of mutual combination styling between fashion and art, between fashion and space and between fashion and technology. Based on those examples, this study classified crossover styles into 6 major categories such as attachment, suspension, modification, fusion, association and embedment. As a result, this study comes to a conclusion that external changes by mutual combination are characterized largely by overlap, simultaneity and deconstruction.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.5-21
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• 1998

This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.179-199
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• 1999

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.49-66
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• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.227-237
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmentalism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into naturalism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors harmonisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Secondly some contemporary eco-looks express environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look ; fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.