• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to document an unidentified velvet fabric which is located in the Museum. The investigation was conducted by analyzing color, weaving technique. pattern of the study object. To identify the origin of the object, many references about color trends, construction methods and patterns were accessed. Two comparative objects which were dating from 1600 to 1699 in the Museum of F.I.T. were selected since they are similar to the study object. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The type of this study object is 'cut and voided velvet'. It is obtained establishing the motif as areas of cut pile so as to form a pattern, while leaving other areas of the grounded weave without pile. Two flowers and two tulips with S curved stems are composed as one unit in the vertical direction. (2) The colors used in this study object. which are ivory, smoke blue, medium orange, and yellow. are part of a new trend color in the $17^{th}$ century. (3) The vertical undulating stripe patterns are also of significance in this fabric. They seemed to be contemporary with the serpentine line which was common since the $15^{th}$ century and the vertical stripes pattern which appeared from the $16^{th}$ century. (4) The stylized tulip patterns of this study object began to appear in the early $17^{th}$ century. The stems and leaves of this patterns are less sinuous than the floral motifs of the later $17^{th}$ century. Therefore, the study object is dated to early in $17^{th}$ century because of the color combination. stripes. stylized tulips, leaves. and stems are showing the characteristics of this period.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.67-88
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• 1999

텍스타일의 발전에 있어서 진보적 기술혁신은 합성섬유의 잠재력을 높이는데 큰 촉매 역할을 해왔는데 그 중 가장 두드러지게 성공적인 분야는 바로 스트레치 직물 분야이다. 스트레치는 그자체의 다양한 종류와 변화무쌍한 특성과 함께 스포츠 웨어, 캐주얼웨어 뿐 아니라 최근에는 정장류 남성복에 이르기 까지 그 사용범위와 미적 표현이 크게 증가되고 다양해졌다. 스트레치의 미는 기능적이고 편안하면서도 직물자체의 유동적인 특성과 함께 인체와 더불어 표출되는시각적 이미지가 현대미에 새로운 개념을 더하고있다는 데에 그 가치가 있다. 본 연구목적은 현대 패션디자인에 표현되어진 스트레치의 미적 개념과 가치가 무엇인가를 발견하는데 있다. 특히 섬유과학기술의 진보로 인한 스트레치 직물의 다양함과 그에대한 디자이너들의 패션철학과 디자인의 다양한 변화를 강조하고 나아가 다음세기를 위한 보다 나은 디자인의 방향을 제시해 보고자한다. 연구결과는 다음과같다. 1, 스트레치의 가장 두드러지는 현대적 미는 편안함과 기능성에 있다. 특히 스트레치 직물 자체가 더욱 가벼워지고 강해지면서 현대생활과 미래생활에서 가장 크게 중시되고 있는 comfortable & functional 의 이상적인 개념을 충적시켜 주고 있다. 2. 스트레치 직물의 유동적특징에서 대표적으로 나타난 스타일은 바디스트인데 이것은 스트레치 자체의 신축성이 기본적으로 인체곡선 위에서 표현되어진 것으로서 거의 비슷한 스타일의 uniformity 현상을 낳게 되었고 또한 인체선의 드러남으로 인해 'healthy'이미지 추구라는 현대미의 새로운 개념을 가져왔다. 2. 더욱 정교해진 스트레치는 결국 transparent look을 낳았고 또한 비치는 직물들을 겹쳐입는 layering 현상을 가져왔는데 이것은 현대적 순수미와 여성미가 시감각적 이미지로 표현되어진 것이라 할수 있다. 4. 스트레치가 되므로서 생기는 긴장은 다른 디자인 요소들에 대해서는 극히 단순한 것을 요구하면서 결국 simplicity를 동반하게 되었다. 5. 스트레치는 디자인 구성 요소들의 보다 작은 개념을 낳았는데 즉 더욱 좁아진 형과 작아진 사이즈 없어지거나 줄어든 다트와 구성선 그리고 그에따라 줄어든 공정과 낮아진 가격이다. 이 개념은 현대미의 minimalism의 한 현상으로 해석되어지며 스트레치 직물은 여기에 가장 부합되는 소재가 되었다. 6. 스트레치의 시각적 이미지는 그자체가 'easy' 'free'느낌과 함께 보편적이면서 미래적이다. 이상으로 볼 때 미래의 패션은 보다 진보적인 섬유과학발전에 힘입어 21세기의 새로운 환경에 잘 적응 할 수 있는 합리적이면서도 미적 가치가 내포된 인간에게 보다 친숙한 디자인으로 전개되리라고 생각되어진다.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2008

This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.134-148
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• 2008

Methods of delivering products to consumers do not act as less important factor than creative activities to create new product designs. Mobilizing various psychological elements based on human instinct and desire, fashion industry presents a product as an object of envy, gaining viewers' attention. Here, the viewer does not simply take the product as an object to view, but also imagine transformation it will bring. The study of the cause and effects of the interaction, which is found in the relationship between "the viewer" and "what is viewed" is an important factor that needs to be identified in the phase of creation as well as in the aspect of delivery. The relationship between the perceiver and what is perceived features in designs, product advertisements, related articles, and fashion shows in modern fashion, serving as a medium that enables the humans, who must inevitably exist between the two poles such as mind and body, the subject and the object, the ego and non-ego, and the reality and an ideal, to communicate between the poles. Humans cannot do arbitrary acts or make arbitrary selections only as they access to foreign things through instinct, desire, or experienced perception, and they are sometimes positioned passive by things. In the background, as there are human dual characteristics in which they are expressed as the ego and another ego who exists inside of the ego, they not only view an object, but also become an object to be viewed. Many products in modern fashion, as the objects of reciprocal transposition, grow giving illusions to humans. Having a desire for such objects is human's instinct and normal act to keep the life balanced between the reality and an ideal, which is based on the activation of reality function. Furthermore, freely acting rather than ignoring or overcoming the desire may be the act of retrieving one's ownership to the ego.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2015

Covers of fashion magazines are part of the media that reflects the zeitgeist. Thus an analysis of the covers is a tool to probe the social and cultural changes of a period. This study attempts to shed light on the changes of the image of women on the cover of men's fashion magazines; this study intends to investigate the changes of status and role of women, from the past up to the present, through analyzing the meaning of the image of female models. For this purpose, this study conducts both literature and corroborative research. The period for the analysis is limited to post-1960s when female models began to appear alone on the cover of men's fashion magazine. The three decades from the 1960s through today have been analyzed according to its characteristics. The result is as follows: female models in the 1960s were shown as subjugated and ancillary to men as a commodity for the affluent materialistic civilization after World War II. In the 1970s, thanks to feminism movement, the image of resistance dominated. As a result of women's right movement, the 1980s came to witness the female image of subjective characteristics. Finally, starting in the 1990s, a mixture of subjugated, resistant, and subjective image of female models has appeared. In the contemporary culture, where the communication through images is being increased, the image of the female models in fashion magazines could work as a criterion to measure the social change.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2007

The modern fashion contains the religious factors or theories out of numerous cultural traits. Shamanism is a product of the very complicated combination of diversified cultural phenomena and whose traits are depicted as spiritual and artistic forms, reflecting on the materialism culture, social relations, customs, and religious faith. The Shamanism that lies in the life of humans gives much impact on their clothing life up to date, consciously or nonconsciously as well. The Shamanism clothing studied as yet has been focused on the costumes that a Shamanism priest and a shaman, the principal Shamanism performer wears and on the symbolic meaning or formativeness of the traditional shaman clothing that is only confined to certain local regions. The Shamanism in the modern costume influences not only on the traditional clothing unique to shaman but also on the other apparels in a widely extended sense. Nevertheless, the research on the modern costumes related to Shamanism is yet to be progressed. In this context, it is believed that the examination of Shamanism interrelated with a contemporary clothing expression is needed. This work would take a look specifically at how the Shamanism is given in the modern clothing fashion and review the inherent aesthetic characteristics. A fact was driven through this study that the shamanism shown in fashion is not only expressed in the modern style of shaman clothing but also unconsciously absorbed in the fashion on the whole. A finding was also revealed that the geometrical and abstract expression, the implication of animistic components, and the application of inherent shaman's costume on to design in regard to clothing are related to a view point of studying about shamanism. The meaning in each expressive method is focused on the superhumanistic desire of shamanism.