• Title/Summary/Keyword: Contemporary Costume

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The study on metareality expressed in digital fashion film (디지털 패션필름에 표현된 메타리얼리티)

  • Kim, Sejin;Ha, Jisoo
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.554-568
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    • 2015
  • Technological change leads to a value shift in human society. Various cultural experiences through the digital paradigm influence the expression of fashion. This article considers fashion film as a new form for presenting fashion and explores the distinctiveness of expression in digital fashion film. For the methodology, a literature review was conducted to examine the concepts and features of digital fashion film and metareality. Empirical research was also performed by drawing from Nick Knight's digital films, "Sans Couture", "#asif", and "The Elegant Universe" and by specifically analyzing the classification of the themes, visuals, and auditory expression. The results are as follows. The proliferation of fashion film has accelerated in the internet environment. New media in the digital era allows images to become more realistic and variable through immaterial conversion. Metareality is the notion of a reality beyond existence. A metarealistic image maintains the metaphysical nature of an object and transcends empirical appearance. It possesses immaterial, transboundary, and multidimensional features, and the image is realized by digital technology. The expression analysis identifies the metareality expressed in contemporary fashion film appearing as atypical forms, irrational combinations, and the playfulness of motion. It shows a positive attitude, transcending the immaterial limit of reality toward fashion. This study indicates how fashion as products challenges the metaphysical transformation in the digital era. The exploration of metareality in digital fashion film promotes a wider perspective and understanding of the concept of fashion.

Expression and characteristics of kidult in contemporary women's collection (현대 여성 컬렉션에 나타난 키덜트적 표현 방법 및 표현 특성)

  • Jia, Zhai;Lee, Yoon Mee;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.24 no.5
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    • pp.670-686
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to delineate and analyze the expression of the kidult and its characteristics and thereby provide data to be used for fashion design in various manners as well as to suggest creative and varied possibilities of fashion design. As a way to study, the author of this paper organized the general terms, concepts and definitions concerning the kidult in the previous papers and journals. The data was collected from the collections represent the characteristics of kidult especially from 2006 to 2015. The results are as follows: Firstly, The characters stimulating the innocence of children were used the most for infantile expression. Parody used characters in the movie or famous logos. Deformation was used to create designs by way of distortion and deformation. Exaggeration thereby showing visually strong impression and inducing surprise and unexpectedness. Depaysement was useful to let us describe concepts and enhance our infinite creativity and interests about objects using surrealistic. Secondly, Infantile characteristics used the images of toys with infantile imagination and sense of humor. Fantasy introduced objects or expressed a dream-like feeling. Unexpectedness used two-faced ideas or conflicting ideas to express conflicts, collision and an interchange with heterogeneous things, avoiding the limit of size and the simplicity of materials. Parody used jocular expressions, satire and ironic expressions to express the original image in a fun manner. Exaggeration transformed changed the structure to restructure objects in a subjective and creative manner, thereby expressing creative patterns using various subject matters by way of special modeling or distortion and transformation.

A Comparative Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Contemporary Nomad Fashion and Korean Traditional Costume -Focused on Deleuze's Nomadism Aesthetics- (현대 노마드 패션과 한국 전통복식의 미적 특성 비교연구 -들뢰즈의 노마디즘(유목주의) 미학을 중심으로-)

  • Yang, Ye Eun;Chae, Keum Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.42 no.5
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    • pp.769-785
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    • 2018
  • This study focused on similarities between modern philosophical Nomadism and the thoughts of Korean people as well as analyzed the correlation between modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. This study aims are as follows. First, to establish aesthetic characteristics by examining modern Nomadism and Korean thoughts. Second, draw the principles of design expressions of modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. Third, analyze correlations between them. The method of this study was a literature review and an analysis of related photos. The study results are as follows. First, Nomadic aesthetics are characterized by the formation of complex diversity with the variability of fusion and separation through liquidity in an ambiguous boundary; in addition, various possibilities and harmony are the characteristics of Korean aesthetics, held by a holistic thought based on the vision of the universe of Qi (氣). Second, Nomad fashion appeared as variable designs through repetition and the overlapping of forms, and irregular designs were noticed through repetition and the overlapping of circles, quadrangles, and angles in Korean traditional costumes. Third, similarities in the creation of liquidity, variability, and de-territoriality based on modules can be found; in addition, common principles can also be drawn from the appearing design expressions.

A Study on the Sexual Image of Woman`s Sports Wear in the Latter Half of the 20th Century (20세기 후반 여성 스포츠웨어의 성(性)적 이미지에 관한 연구)

  • 이효진;강임아
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.6
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    • pp.98-115
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    • 1999
  • As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.

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A Study on the Feminism in Contemporary Fashion Design (현대패션에 표현된 페미니즘에 관한 연구)

  • 금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.30
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    • pp.211-225
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    • 1996
  • In this paper we discuss the corelation be-tween feminism and fashion and examine its influnce on mordern fashion. And we also try to infer what the fashion design will be like in the future by understanding the value of modern fashion from a new viewpoint. The Early Feminism which advocated the similarity between man and women held the thought that women could be equal to men only when they behaved in the same way as men did, In 1970s when the pendulum of the Early Feminism movement reached its highest point a manish look began to flourish. The manish look introduced the items once employed only for men such as trench costs tidy tailored suits shirts and ties to women clothes. It has taken root deeply in women's life and is still employed in various ways by many designers. From the late 1970s the pendulum of feminism movement began to swing toward the Essentialist Feminism which emphasized the differences between men and women. It focused not on the negative image of women seen from male-oriented viewpoints but on their positive image and stressed women's sexual characteristic to make distinction between two genders. in fashion the Essentialist Feminism played a role in bringing about a sexy look which stressed the erotic silhouette of woman's body. The latest feminism is the socio-cultural one. It sees the distinction between men and women as sexual discrimination and introduces the androgynous human which carries the characteristic of two sexes. it leads to ambiguity of sex roles and at the same time serves to make androgynous social atmosphere by admitting the coexistence of two genders. The androgynous idea in fashion is expressed as a new trend which crosses men and women's own beauty while keeping their own identity intact. As we have briefly reviewed feminism in fashion has been presented in various ways with regard to expressing the nature of men and women. And it has continuously indicated the ultimate message of the salvation of mankind such as the respect for humanity and recovery of humanism.

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A Study of the Commercial Function and Characteristic of Fashion Illustration - a domestic research - (패션 일러스트레이션의 상업적 기능과 특성에 관한 연구 - 국내를 중심으로 -)

  • 성광숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.165-179
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    • 2000
  • This research centers on studying the function and characteristic of fashion illustration for advertisement and publication which is, among plenty of fashion illustration's functions, the commercial one. Here are some purposes of the research. First, it presents the function of fashion illustration. Second, under the contemporary circumstance of specialization and subdivision. It givers people the better understanding of fashion illustration by providing a variety of its classification bases other than the typical, simple grouping of style drawing and fashion illustration. Third, this research helps fashion illustration establish itself as commercial art by showing how fashion illustration is utilized in the field as a part of the fashion industry. The methods and contents of the research are described that the concept of fashion illustration, characteristic, classification bases and commercial function are presented and than the data of fashion illustration which hale been used as goods since 1990 in the nation are selected in order to analyze the media for the application of fashion illustration. its expression methods, factors and images. By doing so, advertising fashion illustration are much less than those of published fashion illustration and even most cases of advertising fashion illustration are related just to poster advertisement such as magazines, fashion events or public subscription. The published fashion illustration isn't also attracting the public since it focuses on fashion information books, fashion magazines or fashion -clothing books. Another finding is that the expression style of fashion illustration is not various or distinctive. The expression remains in the trends of painting, figurative drawing, sometimes adopts post-modernism which is reflected in popular cartoon and figures exaggerates or simplifies the human body. The image of fashion illustration is simple. casual or feminine in the rough. For the development of commercial fashion illustration, it is required to produce fashion illustrators, not works but goody, with various concepts appealing to the public.

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The 'Be Slow'Movement and Its Impact on the Current Fashion (최근 국내외 패션에 나타난 느리게 살기 운동의 영향)

  • 김윤희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.6
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    • pp.165-179
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    • 2002
  • This paper begins with the thesis that the so-called 'Be Slow' Movement has not only affected the contemporary life style but also the current fashion trend in the West as well as in Korea. The influence of the 'Be Slow' Movement on the everyday life of Western and Korean society can be documented by recent books, news reports, and many articles from various kinds of mass media and fashion magazines since the year 2000. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First. the 'Be Slow' Movement is a new cultural phenomenon and very different from that of the past century. It has emerged very recently and it could affect the life style o( its followers for a long period of time. Second, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on everyday life can be witnessed in many behavioral choices. such as the preference of organic food and natural cooking for food and the preference of rural life and a green patch of land for housing. Some aspects of the way of rearing the children and long-term planning of one's life are also under the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement. In a way. the life style Proposed by the 'Be Slow' Movement is somewhat similar to that of 'Bobos'. Third, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on the current fashion trend can be observed in the appreciation of time-consuming labour and increased usage of D.I.Y. clothing. The higher value of fashion goods with handcrafted part or scarce luxury item are good examples of the influence by the 'Be Slow' Movement. One can say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is not retrogression, but a re-creation of time and space to be grateful for one's life. Thus, it is not anti-technology but a commercialism with technology in order to enhance the quality of life and to place people in the center of production and consumption. Consequently, one may say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is a appropriate and affluent way of living.

A Cultural Approach to the Aesthetic Characteristics of the 20th Century French Fashion (문화적 접근 방법에 의한 20세기 프랑스 패션의 미적 특성 연구)

  • Jung Yu-Kyung;Chun Hei-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.81-96
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    • 2006
  • Fashion is very superficial. However, it is expressed through the culture that is a cause of internal change and therefore its contents are defined by the cultural features. In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the French fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of France and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the French culture. Based on the cultural characteristics of France, the aesthetical properties of the contemporary French fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$Dualism is the internal contents of the French culture with multiple sources, and it implies that opposing values such as female and male, traditionalism and modernism, simplicity and decoration are coexisting. Simplicity is pursued but decorative elements are in harmony and new phase of time is reflected while certain style has lasted for a long period of time to become a tradition. Furthermore, a rational trend combining masculinity and femininity, simultaneously exist with a trend that emphasizes feminine image. ${\cdot}$Multiculturism is a mysterious feature that has adapted the oriental or other cultural factors into the forms, patterns, colors and material of costumes. It has also been reconstructed with the French and the modern tastes. ${\cdot}$Avant-gardism is pursuing a novel aesthetic value against the former value system. It recognizes the human body as an object of figurative arts therefore emphasizes the body with geometric shapes to deny the fixed-idea, or engraft new materials and technologies to express the futuristic aspects.

A Study on the Neo-Classicism Expressed in Contemporary Fashion Design (현대복식에 표현된 신고전주의 특성에 관한 연구)

  • 추미경;김순자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.40
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    • pp.121-135
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

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Performance as a factor in the Contemporary Fashion Show - focus on the Paris and London collections Since the 1990s - (현대 패션쇼에 나타난 퍼포먼스적 요소 - 1990년 이후 파리, 런던 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • 장안화;박민여
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.4
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    • pp.71-80
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    • 2001
  • Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

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