• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.375-390
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• 2017

The aims of this research were to characterize magic realism by analyzing existing magical reality literature reviews and research and to identify material that may inspire ideas for stage and film costume design by analyzing and drawing design characteristics and magic realism of costumes from Director Tarsem Singh's movie, 'Mirror, Mirror'. For the methodology, characteristics of magic realism in literature and, movies were analyzed, with a theoretical consideration of these materials on magical realism. Data on costume design and magical realism characteristics for use in the analysis were collected from the main characters of 'Mirror, Mirror' as well as from other characters. The result of this analysis was the emergence of five common characteristics of the magic realism Historicity, the most remarkable characteristic seen in Tarsem Singh films, was expressed through the symbolic meaning and decorative patterns shown by the traditional-style costumes, colors. Symbolization was expressed through the symbolic meaning, decorative elements, and traditional clothes, as shown by the colors and forms of the costumes. Fantasy was expressed through the colors, decorative elements, forms of traditional clothing, and forms with symbolic meaning. Reproducibility was expressed through the method of decorative element, symbolic meaning, traditional forms and de-structural clothes. Ambiguity, which can be associated with the combined characteristics of historicity and fantasy, was expressed in the clothes worn in the scenes that confounded time and space within the film.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.535-548
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to research the achievement motivation of beauty industry professionals. The research method involved one-on-one, in-depth interviews with 7 hair professionals, 7 make-up professionals and 7 skincare professionals. The in-depth interviews were recorded in their entirety, and the recorded content was transcribed and organized. Analysis of the transcribed data involved encoding, deconstructing and re-composing the interview content. Research results revealed 5 factors that were extracted to explain the achievement motivation of beauty industry professionals. Four of the 5 factors were similar to the results of precedent studies, but the remaining factor presented unique characteristics. The 4 common factors were "motive to pursue success", "motive to avoid failure", "motive to meet challenges" and "goal-oriented motive". The factor discovered in this study was "relationship-oriented motive", which is characterized by the tendency to place importance in relationships with superiors, colleagues and customers based on the working characteristics of beauty industry professionals. Based on the results of this study, beauty industry professionals can learn about goals that must be met in various stages in order to establish a system for accomplishing those goals, implement an emotional education program for mental balance, introduce a competitive team system, and carry out a relationship improvement program to increase work efficiency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2012

Recently, hats have been used more frequently as an accessory, contributing to the general image of clothes in men's collections. This study compared and analyzed the frequency and styles of hat usage in men's brand collections according to the collections' images. Types of hats and their frequency of usage in men's clothes were analyzed among 857 collections from 74 brands between S/S 2006 and F/W 2012. This study also examined the relationship between clothes image and type of hats used. Hats were used in 622 out of 857 collections, and 24 different types of hats were used. In 67 collections, hats were used in at least 71% of clothes. The most frequently used hat was the fedora, followed in frequency by the beanie, cap, bowler, and high hat. The styles of hats in collections varied depending on seasons. In S/S season collections, fedoras were often used, while beanies were more common during the F/W season. This study analyzed styles of hats used in formal, casual, uniformed, and deformed images. Beanies and fedoras were frequently used for the formal image; fedoras, beanies, and plat caps were often used for the casual image; more than 3 types of hats were used together for the uniformed image; and design hats and hats in various styles were used for the deformed image. The results show that hats of various styles were used in collections to express the image of clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.150-165
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• 2016

With signs of the redevelopment of the domestic sewing industry, national support agencies were established. This study aims to assess the present conditions of the domestic sewing industry and investigate the effectiveness of national sewing industry support policies. According to the results of a survey of 30 sewing companies managers, the biggest factor causing product defects was work being rushed because of tight delivery dates, and the reduction in sales was caused by a lack of orders. Moreover, sewing technicians are aging, and the biggest reason for their decrease in number is that people do not pursue the job because of the common understanding that it is difficult. Managers perceived that the government's sewing technician training program was not a practical help. They were well aware of the support program to improve the work environment and the sewing equipment support program and showed high satisfaction with these programs, but they complained that the period for equipment rental was fixed. A majority of them thought that the Korean sewing industry environment had still not improved, and were skeptical about its future outlook. They identified its most urgent needs as the expansion of orders and the securing of manpower. The support programs that they wanted urgently included support for employees' four major public insurances and the enactment of the increase of toll processing fees.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.395-406
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• 1996

This article aims, by analyzing structurally the codification of dress sign in Korean society, the signifying system of the codes and their message communicated, to make clear a signifying structure that would be codified through the relationship between abstract concepts and real condition of dress. I used the semiotic theory of Ferdinand de Saussure′s conception on structuralismly the codification, cultural semiology of Roland Barthes and Myung-Sook Han′s formula of dress structure as tools analyse may objective of wedding dress of folks in Choson Dynasty, which has been successive our traditional Korean wedding dress. My results of the study are : The procedure of wedding ceremony in Choson Dynasty was presented in texts like Juga-garye, Sarye-peonram and Kukjo-orye, its dress system has been more emphasized on language, and aspect of social system, than parole, one of individual realization. In addition, the meanings of marrage such as "Oneness of bride and bridegroom", "Mixture of two sexes", "Blessing of good luck", were included in the signified like the style, pattern and color of the wedding dress, and specially, pattern and color, the articulated morphemes, was emphasized, When we combinated terms of dress in Choson Dynasty with syntagmatic, regarding their list as paradigmatic, it will signify a wedding dress, and according to combinating ways, it amy be divided as sign of dresses of bride and bridgeroom by sex or king, gentry and common people by class. Wedding Dress in Choson Dynasty = [{ODx(U/Dxu/d)}+AC·H·FW].

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.224-238
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• 2004

This paper analyzes the similarity of fashion in the 1920's and 1960's. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The similarity of fashion appeared in the similar social ideal period. The fashion of the 1920's and 1960's have a lot of similarity in many respects. Androgyny was the new word. The woman cut her hair short, wore short skirt, and projected a self-confidence that was considered by many to be too masculine. The new fashions also appeared very youthful. The cult of eternal youth was born. The mature woman was no longer requested. Instead, in the face of changing lifestyles and extremely rapid technological development, taste ran in favor of a young, athletic, and mobile ideal. The new fashions do-emphasized curvaceous shapes through short dresses and short hair-both styles were supposed to express youthfulness. Characteristic of the times was the short loose dress: straight silhouette disguised feminine curves. The new dresses were invented for very young, slim, and wide-eyed women. The common Zeitgeist of the 1920's and 1960's represents the cult of youth and the adoption of innovative style, which emphasized decoration-cleared simplicity, functionality, practicality, activity, androgyny. Innovative short skirt, youth fashion, androgynous style, unisex style, tubular silhouette, short hair style, and eyeline-emphasized makeup were analyzed by the similarity of fashion in the 1920's and 1960's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.488-498
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• 2010

This study was intended to develop a multi-purpose, multi-functional design for safety vest to enhance the safety and user's availability. With a limited scope to LED-applied safety vest, this study contemplates on the problems of safety vest on the market and directions for design development with a view to develop its prototype. This is a significant study because it has been conducted concerning a prototype, a cut above the study method of constructing a basic theory. For study method, theoretic considerations on LED and safety vest are followed by case study for LED-applied safety vest currently on the market to draw out problems. Then, solutions for problems with LED safety vest will be found, while planning for a design direction in consideration of safety, functionality and beauty. Scope of study was limited to cases of LED safety vests currently on sale online and offline, excluding cases of common-form luminosity such as HB luminous vest without LED. Accordingly, results of study will help develop the prototype for LED safety vest with an increase of the wearer's safety, and be used as a basic data for developing high-value-added fashion prodcts to meet his aesthetic sense and functionality. This study has limitations. Restricted scope for LED-applied safety vest should be extended to an outdoor wear in follow-up research for the foundation of higher value added.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.922-927
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• 2015

Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be 'balanced' or 'regular', with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.