• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.15-29
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• 2000

Nowadays every part no company continues to gain the upper hand of a competitive superiority. Strategic Alliances between companies have been rapidly increased to preoccupy a market. The purpose of this study is to find devices of strategic alliances for the competitive distribution environment of Korean fashion industries. This reseach has been done by the literature review of the related articles, books, and the case studies in domestic markets as well as foreign ones. Strategic alliances are business relationships established by tow or more companies which cooperate out of mutual need and share risk in achieving a common objective. Today the purpose of international strategic alliances is to be competitive in global markets by meeting of exceeding new standards for products and technology use. Various types of alliances are occurred and this situation will be more common and generalized since one parter's weakness is offset by the other's strength. Strategic alliances are characterized by being horizontal, collaborative, and mutually beneficial to all parties. When used in good faith, the strengths gained in a strategic alliance are great. Therefore retailer should find that to gain faithful partners is important and should effort positively to enrich alliances based on a mutual belief. Finally, to become a company for leading the global market, it is necessary that we operate strategic alliances mixed foreign investments and domestic technology with local distributions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.688-701
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• 2007

Since modem times, civilization of scientific technology has rapidly expanded and resulted in many negative aspects. Dystopia is a skeptical future standpoint newly introduced by surging awareness of these negative aspects. The purpose of this study is to discover the common characteristics by studying costumes displayed in dystopian films which have critical view of the future. This study is made through the research of sundry records, thesis and capture images from DVD system. As a result of the study, the common formative characteristics of future costumes appearing in six dystopian films are classified into external characteristics and internal characteristics. First, external characteristics were analyzed according to the form, material and color. Second, internal characteristics of costumes appearing in dystopian films are categorized as the indeterminate expression, ex-typical expression and uniform expression. The above formative characteristics of dystopian future costumes can be described as the embodiment of meanings of influence from present and future cultural changes in terms of the characteristics of fashion.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.940-948
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• 2000

This paper analyzed the collections of Dries Van Noten and found the influences of oriental ethnic costumes. The oriental looks which he had shown in his collections are followings : Largely, the menswear designs of Van Noten took the concept of an easy and loose style which is a common shape in oriental ethnic costumes. Especially various transformations of layered look were found in his collections. Design ideas of Van Noten's womenswear style included variations of a sarong style, a kimono style, and etc. Also in his womenswear collections, various styles of layered look were shown. He often used lustrous fabrics like satin, brocade, and damask which are driven from the oriental region. His collections had Chinese dragon-or flower-pattern, Japanese geometric pattern, and Indian henna pattern. The patterns were embroidered or gilded.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.85-98
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to pointed artistic representation design on fashion through observation, integrating of the formative arts. Above all, designing principle should be considered with trend, styling ,coloring. Suggested designing study is the essence of present methods. ① Clothing as an art ② Expression in fashion design ③ Creation of the artistic sense ④ The various techniques of design ⑤ Perform the steps of design (Ⅰ) ∼ (Ⅲ) That is to say, fashion is reflected in the spirit of painters as well as designers. Art is close and common relationship between individual will-to-form and the sense of value. Thus Art wear is represented the minute expression of designing the function with artistic originality. I submit some opinion and my studies. ① Forms of Formative Arts ② Analysis of the Silhouette & Design - - ③ Color scheme of Design ④ Artistic representation techniques - Knit wear design ⑤ Emotion of Beauty The results of this study were as follows : 1. Fashion design is demanded to do motivation by means of artistic representation. 2. Smart, sophisticated image effects, avoiding posterlike garish appearance. 3. It is supported for fashion information which is relating to design through industry society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.602-610
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• 2000

The purposes of this study was to examine the college students'value and the status of their clothing purchasing behavior, and to compare the correlation between both of them. The questions were centered on 511 students who are attending the universities in Seoul. The results of this study were as follows. First, most students have higher value on politics, economy, and theory in the order listed. Male-students were interested in theory, while female-students were more interested in politics. Second, when they purchase their clothes, the factor of decision was based on design and their observation was another important factor. As for selecting shops, they considered the product as the most important factor and then the service & transportation. Third, I inspected the correlation between their value & the status of their clothing purchasing behavior. The students with lower theoretical value considered the quality as a purchasing factor, and the service as a purchasing factor, common shop as a purchasing shop, adn the convenient transportation system as a factor of selecting a shop.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2003

Aesthetics of ugliness enlarged aesthetic field and brought back the repressed, estranged things. Hair style is not an exception. So I intended to examine the contemporary(1995-2002) women's hair styles on the basis of Rosenkranz' concept of ugliness. The results are as follows: First, extrinsic aspect contains formlessness and disfiguration. Among characteristics of formlessness, discord means appearing on a stage with a hair style derailed from our common sense or an incomplete hair style. Asymmetry means hair decoration or hair dressing which violates the principles of design. Disharmony means excessiveness beyond the concept of accent. Disfiguration has characteristics of vulgarity, disgust and caricature, and means cruelty, grimness or ridiculousness instead of pleasing beauty. Second, intrinsic aspect has incorrectness. As minority ethnic groups, estranged classes, children and women which in the previous field of absolute aesthetics were never considered as beauty appeared as subject matters of hair styles, the repressed things returned and a new genre was created thereby enlarging true aesthetic field. Like this, 1 cloud confirm that aesthetics of ugliness organized today's characteristic, peculiar hair styles, and enlarged aesthetic field.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.657-670
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• 2003

It is quite common today for bride to wear white-colored wedding-dress in wedding ceremony. When does the color date back to? What does the “white” mean? Which other colors had been used for wedding dress and why? This research paper aims to answer those historical questions through literature review. It is found here that the “white” began to be generally accepted for a wedding dress color in the 18th century, and that the color became an official one since the marriage of Queen Victoria's (i.e. 1840). Prior to that, other colors were taken rather than the “white”. In ancient Greece and Roma, “Red” and “Yellow” were used to remove devils or to bring fortune. In medieval society, luxurious wedding dresses were popular and various colors were adopted in order to show up family power among leading classes. The “White” has meant purity of bride since the 18th century. However, two world wars in the 20th century happened to lead some brides in economic difficulty wear “black” colored wedding dress for a practical reason. After the world wars, some light colors such as white, beige, ivory are to be used in wedding dress.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.145-155
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate the casual relationships of situational variables and consumer characteristics on apparel buying behavior. data were collected via a questionnaire developed on the previous studies from 534 housewives living at Seoul and Pusan, and analyzed by Path analysis. Results indicated that consumers were affected directly by the buying situation and the usage situation, and indirectly by the communication situation and the consumer characteristics on apparel buying behavior. The buying situation was a variable that most affected consumers'apparel buying behavior. Apparel consumers showed the common situational effects on apparel buying behavior as did on consumer behavior of the other consumer goods. The casual relationships of apparel buying behavior were significantly different on the types of usage situations.