• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.283-292
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• 2002

This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.210-214
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• 2009

Cave 79 of Kumtura grottoes, is the best preserved cave, which has an important meaning for research on Uighur costume. This paper is intended to analyze the costume characteristics of female donors in Cave 79 by comparing image materials between Dunhuang murals and other murals in Xinjiang province. In Cave 79, female donor wears red robe with tight sleeve, whose collar is crescent-shaped decorated. Two different opinions are upheld for this decoration. One regards this as the turn-down collar, while the other believes this as decoration on V-neckline. Red robe is quite common in female donors of Xinjiang and Dunhuang murals and a female in fresco is wearing a crown in a triangle red headwear style, regarded as red silk and drooping at head. Female donors wear an extra coat, kame hair clasp, red jacket, light-colored high-waist skirt with a long-tail waistband, and tangerine Pibo (silk ribbon) with scattered small flowers. All these costume styles are commonly-used by Han females. The kame headwear is also the common ornament for Han females and the female's hairstyle is in cone shape on head by a white kame. Current costumes are similar but not completely same.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.13-26
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to identify the origin of diversity of costume material caused by environmental difference. For this purpose, this research involved theoretical studies and studies based on historical data obtained from previous related studies. The common truth was proved that environmental including the geographical distribution of plants and animals determines costume material. Also, It was found that the unique traditional costume styles were developed through unique combination of costume material and their culture. The major results of this study are as follow : 1. The traditional costume of North American Indian was well-developed and closely related to geographical distribution of plants and animals. Also, their costume was so diverse that it could not be categorized. 2. The traditional costume of North American Indian showed ideal har mony between nature and human being surrounding environment into their costume. 3. The application of plants and animal materials into their costume was one of the environment-friendly human activity and it seems to give us an important message.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.8
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• pp.15-27
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• 1984

A costume study is a part of the cultural history and also has the greatest relation to life's senses as a concrete culture. Korean costume that consists a double structure with Chinese one through Chosun Dynasty five hundred years, has recently changed up to the Western Form. In this respect Korean Costume has a important meaning in relation to Western costume. Traditional costume, generally speaking, has tendency to keep up by the common people than the higher classes. Then there were four classes. They are aristocratic classes common people, those who are engaged in the form, industry, trade and low classes. Merchant of them partially took charge of the cultural exchange about contacting with tradition and new one. Because it's easy to flow in one's character the new civilization. So there is an important significance to research of the merchant's costume in Gae Hwa Gi changing age of civilization in politics, economic, and social system. The records appeared about the merchant's costume in the age of civilization through literature study and natural photo at that time.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.21-41
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• 1990

All the cultures are enriched and developed themselves through the contact with another culture, which propagate and transplant its new cultural elements to a time-honoured tradition. Therefore, the investigation of the origin of each culture means to find out the all the elements of each culture itself in the end. In Korean Costume, we can find both the Costume of frizid jone and that of temperate jone togther, effected by the influence of typical continental climate. Accordingly, we can also realize that both Lee, of southern tribe and Haw, of northern tribe suitable for the protection of cold weather, existed in Korea. Even Lee and Hwa were used together, Hwa had been appeared earlier than Lee along with the Skitai Costume and we can find its origin in the line of Skitai costume. In Central Asia, Tadjhik was the only race tracing their ancestry from ancient Iranic genuinely and they had been keeping the culture of Skitai origin continuously. The purpose of this thesis is to examine Korean's own culture of the footwear through the investigation of Tadjhik's culture of costume, specially through the culture of Tadjhik footware. To reach the conclusion of this thesis, the comparision and investigation between Korea and Tadjhik was made carefully for the followings, culture of life and costume, forms and materials of footwear. 1. The treasers and boots made by leather and felt was the origin of costume culture of Central Asia and aboves were appeared in persian costumn for the first time. We can consider that those had connection with Korean culture of costume. 2. Form of Tadjhik footwear can be devided by hwa and Lee, and there was a big difference in form between that of mountain area and plain area. We can find more rariety in footwear of mountain area. 3. If we compare the form of Hwa and Lee of Tadjhik with our own footwear, we can find out many things in common and there are lots of similarities particularly in form and material. 4. We can say that the difference of Tadjhik and Korean was the preference of Hwa for Tadjhik and Lee for Korean, aboves came from the different totography, climate condition and life style. 5. The form of male and female footwear of tadjhik was almost similar, but female footwear had various and beautiful decorations for the ornament. 6. The materials of Tadjhik footwear was mostly leather, and Hwa was used particularly for labour purposes. 7. We can expect that Tadjhik of Central Asia and Korea had a similar orgin and style on the footwear. It can be expected that we can find out many common things in further investigation of the study of Tadjhik costume and will exert the examination continuously.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.599-613
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• 2004

The purpose for this paper is to find the common characteristics of Korean traditional clothing, which is largely affected by Chinese arts and culture. There are many different theories about Faking Opera＇s orgine but an established character is an ensemble song and dance. It virtually represent overall Chinese arts. There are four characters in the Peking Opera ; Sheng, Dan, Jing, and Chuck. Sheng is divided into Nosheng, Sosheng, Musheng and Hongsheng based on their dramatic skills. Also, Sheng requires various acting skills : song, dance, dialogue, act and fighting skill. Peking Opera＇s stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though it＇s style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty＇s clothing style. The rankings and personalties of the role are strictly applied to decide what to wear. Artistic exaggeration, symbol and transfiguration, use of colors are equally important in planning the stage costume.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the costume worn by women in daily life according to life scenes depicted in genre paintings of the late Chosan Dynasty. The sentiments and customs of the time were examined to discover how costume culture followed women's lifestyles in the late period of the Chosun Dynasty. First, according to life scenes, a field amusement type costume was the most common garment and a commercial activity type costume was the least common garment. Second, when the form of costume was examined followed by the lifestyle it depicted, the following observations were noted. Women depicted in a housework type lifestyle often wore a Minjeogori. In contrast, women appearing in a labor production type or a commercial activity type lifestyle often wore a Banhoijangjeogori with the width of the coat narrowing gradually according to the trends of the time. In the forms of Chima, the women wore a Duluchima and a Gudlchima for convenience during their work and covered a Haengjuchima over it. Third, women shown in a field amusement type, a home enjoyment type or an affection pursuit type lifestyle mainly wore a deep blue colored Chima and Hoijang or Banhoijang Jeogori. While most of the women depicted in a labor production type, a housework type or a commercial activity type lifestyle wore a natural cotton colored Jeogori and a natural cotton colored and light indigo Chima. Fourth, in the field amusement type and the affection pursuit type lifestyle, the wearing of a headdress during outings of women appeared variously influenced by the strengthening restrictions placed on the women's lives according to the ethics of Confucianism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.22-39
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• 2013

This thesis aims to investigate the characteristics of the civil costume in Netherlands women and the way how the civil culture was reflected on these by analyzing the women's costume depicted in the works of the Johannes Vermeer regarded as the representative painter of Netherlands in 17th century. The method of study was to select 24 pieces of Vermeer's works among the 30 pieces, and were analyzed in detail. These were approved to be common civil costumes by researching the works of other painters in that era on the other hand. The result shows that the civil costume of Netherlands women from 1653 until 1675 was in the simple form of two pieces dress, and minimal decorations with simple hair style and headdress would take the constitution of the frugality, chastity and practicality as the mainstream, along with using the red, yellow and blue as the primary three colors on to the costumes. These characteristics might be ascribed to the Netherlands civil culture influenced by the Calvinism that emphasized the frugality and chastity, denouncing the luxury with supporting the religion and morality. This trend was also noted in the men's costume, giving evidence of the intimate relationship between the costume, religion and civil culture. This thesis might be a help to elucidate the relationship between the costume and cultural society, and be a affordable tools to study the contemporary costume.