• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.10
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• pp.119-130
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• 1998

This is on the dance costume of ancient Greece. The present study classified the characteristics of Greek dance and dance costume according to the silhouette, quality of material, color and ornaments. Materials of the study are the pictures and figures presented in literatures, sculptures, crockeries, murals, coins. The dances of Greece can be classified into religious dance, educational dance, recreational dance, dramatic dance and various forms of dance on each dances were developed. Especially, it is the greatest character that Greeks gave dances educational value and created composit art including song, lines and dance. As dance costume, Himation, Chiton, Chlamys which Greeks generally wore were widely worn. Also, the beauty of dance costume was maximized by the changes of basic costumes and development of various ways of wearing. Especially, professional dancers wore costumes shorter than knee-length ones forming a A-line silhouette different from a cylindrical one. Thin cloth revealing body silhouette such as fiax hemp, linen, silk were used as materials of dance costumes. As for colors, white was mainly used, But orange, blue and green were used, too. They wore band, scarf, bonnet on the head and seldom used any ornaments except for fibula. They wore the same sandals which Greeks wore, Crepis, front-heeled shoes which is thought to be the origin of modern ballet shoes for the technique of toe in dance. As mentioned above, as the dance costume of Greece were mainly worn as the similar forms of the dance costume of Greeks, various forms of costumes were worn with the development of dance and bold ways of wearing and silhouette were developed unlike the costume of common people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.37-51
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.433-439
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• 2004

Hanji costumes has four aspects that allow the creator or artist to create many variations. The pictorial effects of Hanji costumes are produced through variations in the dyes and brushes used for its application. The amount of water and texture of the Hanji mixture also influences the Hanji clothing. This effect was expressed using a dry brush technique, a dripping technique, India inks, and fragments from other Hanji works. A second aspect of Hanji clothing is the coloring effect in the Hanji costumes. The coloring is due to the fibers in the preparation mixture and the uniqueness of the dyes. The Hanji clothing was dyed various colors and patterns by dip dyeing, block dyeing, silk screens, digital printing. The third aspect of Hanji imagination in clothing is the decorative details. The details in Hanji clothing can be seen using frills, pleats, tucks and ribbons. The last variation of Hanji clothing can be expressed through crafting techniques. These techniques are the quality of paper string, cuts in the paper and paste ingredients. With Hanji cloth, it is possible to plait, roll, and crample into other flexible & useful materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.179-190
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• 2014

In traditional costume, colors have been used to express the religion, society, culture, custom, and other aspects of a country. This is mainly due to color being the most conspicuous visual factor of a costume. In Thailand, there is a symbolic color for each day of the week, and the purpose of this study is to contribute to deeper understanding of the Thailand culture in regards to color and its costumes. The study method is as follows: literatures and photos were researched for social and religious background of the seven days Buddha history, which was the source of the color a day culture, symbols and significance of each Buddha were studied and precedent studies were reviewed. The study attempted to investigate the effect of the symbolic color on costumes as it passed down from generations. Originally, the symbolic colors of seven days Buddha in Thailand was a religious component that was exclusive to the upper class. However, it has expanded to the lower classes today. Currently, it obtains an aspect of health and wealth gospel for oneself or others as well as being used to express individual personality because people regard certain color as their symbolic color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.53-70
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• 1996

The inspiration and its application in fashion design is considered as one of the important factors in boosting the fashion arena. Many inspirations are adapted in fashion de-sign and they make the fashion design unique and characteristic. In this study many fashion designs are analyzed to find what kind of inspirations were adapted and utilized for the fashion design in reality. The nature historic costumes ethcin costumes arts sciences literature music sports were revealed as the sources of fashion inspiration.l The concerns on the environments movies and dramas could provide inspirations in fashion as well. Several contents or steps were studied to provide the one of the example of appli-cations as follows: 1. The works of Marc Chagall were analized to figure out and several plastic characteristics from his works were revealed such as fantastic strong colors unreal animal pattern or their details his wife and friends various divisions of the surface and so on. These attributes had been favored in depiction of his works to ex-press his home town or nostalgia. 2. '90s fashion designs inspired by the works of Chagall were analized to find out the meth-odology or the process of designs. The same Chagall colors were used in design and similar pattern were expressed through beaded work or printing jobs. The surface designs such as printing were the most prefered method in adapting the inspirations. 3. The plastic characteristics of the work of Chagall were attempted in clothing design and construction. The color combination patterns which remind the animals the surface divisions were used in design ot practive the methodologies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of traditional blue color between Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. Korea and Japan as the neighboring country of geographically and historically, but showed obvious difference in traditional color. In this study we investigated the blue color characteristics that appear on Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. We researched the characteristics of blue color on color names and color tones through the old Korean and Japanese literatures, costume remains and restoration dyeing fabrics. This study researched the Chosun Period in Korea and Edo Period in Japan. The results of this study Were as following; Many differentiation colors appeared in Chosun and Edo period than former ages. These differentiation colors were made giving differences gradually in basic color, hue, value and chroma. The blue color names appeared 40 names in Chosun Period and 57 names in Edo Period. In these blue color names of Chosun and Edo Period, the common color name was not more 'indigo'. The most highly appearanced blue color hues of costume remains in Chosun and restoration dyeing fabrics in Edo Period were blue and purplish blue. The most highly appearanced blue color tones were dull and moderate. By result of preceding descriptions, the characteristics of national color were not come from difference of dye and dyeing method, could know that come from difference of society and cultural environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.61-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.336-344
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• 2010

Stage costumes are characterized by the importance as a medium of total visual expression on a synthetic art and need to be designed more effectively. This study followed the stage costumes of the play 'Long long time ago whuo-ee whuoee' which participated in the China-Japan-Korea University Theatre Festival. By consisting of the framework of a Korean story that tells and expands the visual expression province by the access method of a producer, the unique costume in the play was created by the dyeing of the traditional hangi. First, the use of hanji in theater represents originality and a fresh variation with the formative beauty of stage costumes in accordance with hanji that conforms to the recreation of tradition. Second, the dip dyeing technique made it possible to express colors limitlessly and the airbrush dyeing technique along with dyeing twice could account for the weak points of the color. As a result, the color brought effect as expected. Third, the weak points were supported by a Jumchi technique that created the fibroid material tangled with stronger adhesion in the creation of a hangi costume. In addition, dyed hangi was attached to the outer fabric. It allowed the costume to have a unique texture that was both soft and tough. This enforced the visualization of the costume and durability to prevent possible damage by the performers. Forth, pieces of hanji were attached to the damaged parts of the costume after re-visiting the dress rehearsal. As a result, the stage costumes represented the shabby clothes that express the social class of the characters. A new understanding of the excellence of traditional hanji was found and confirmed the possibility of it as a material for stage costumes through the study.