• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권11호
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• pp.1554-1564
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• 2007

In apparel industry, the production of clothing for the global market, has it#s origin in its characteristics depending on hands on working style, according to the globalization of a fashion industry. These days, however, the globalized production is unable to keep pace with the short cycle of production due to the unpredictable change of the taste or demands in the local area, as a result, the industry has come to take a focus on the production and consumption in the circumscribed region. In this stream, the northeastern area, specially, Dalian which is renowned for a center of fashion was designated as a city of this study as a representative. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of street fashion in Dalian. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 5 weeks from 14 May 2006 until 18 June 2006, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of city, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development area. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are casual styles(68%) rather than formal styles(32%). In the casual styles, sports casual(36.0%), character casual(29.5%), jean casual(2.6%) were listed. All kinds of clothes are tightly fitted due to the stretched fabric and knit fabric. 2. Preferred colors are white(31.1%), red(16.6%), black(15.8%) khaki(7.8%) and blue(7.6%) for tops, and black(34.6%), blue(27.2%), white(15.4%), brown(14.6%) for bottoms. 3. Preferred clothing items are T-shirt(36.5%), jumper(33.6%), jacket(20.0%), blouse(8.7%), etc.(1.2%) for tops, pants(91.4%), skirts(8.6%) for bottoms. In the pants, cigarette pants(34.6%), bell bottom pants(21.0%), cargo pants(19.9%), straight pants(15.9%) were listed respectively. In the skirts, flare skirt(3.9%), tight skirt(2.2%), semi tight skirt(1.7%), pleats skirt(0.8%) were listed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

카멜레온은 미끈한 몸통과 화려한 색 띠들을 가진 작은 도마뱀을 말하는데 빛, 온도, 기분에 따라 색이 변화하는 것이 특징이다. 또한, 변덕스러운 사람, 요염하고 매혹적인 사람, 속물적이면서도 상황에 재빨리 대처하는 사람 등을 일컬어 카멜레온이라고 하기도 한다. 본 연구의 목적은 상황에 따라 색이 변하는 카멜레온 이미지를 요염한 변덕장이들의 섹시한 스타일로 비유해서 Wearable Art에 실루엣, 색, 텍스처 개발 기술을 접목하여 표현하고자 한 것이다. 연구방법은 카멜레온의 사실적, 개념적 특징들을 Wearable Art 작품으로 표현해 나가는 단계에서 특히, 옷감 표면에 다양한 제작 기술들을 실험해 보는 과정으로 진행되었다. 작품 이미지 컨셉은 'sensuality', 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating' 등으로 표현했고, 연구자의 미래지향적 기호와 움직임을 통한 편하고(comfortable) 즐거울 수 있는(enjoyable)개념 역시 포함되도록 하면서 작품 완성도를 높였다. 디자인 및 제작 포인트는 실제 카멜레온의 전체 라인, 색, 표피 질감 등 그 특징들을 분석하여 본 작품의 형태, 색, 텍스처 등을 통해 상징적으로 표현하도록 하였고, 동시에 요염한 변덕장이 카멜레온의 이미지가 암시적으로 나타날 수 있도록 하였다. 작품 실루엣은 바디컨셔스 라인(body-conscious line)이다. 이것은 카멜레온의 날씬하고 미끈한 몸체를 이미지화 한 것이며 동시에, 속세적이면서도 미래적인 이미지가 암시적으로 표현되도록 한 것이다. 카멜레온 등뼈가 드러난 것을 드레스 등이 노출되도록 하여 표현하였는데 이것은 동시에 관능적이고 요염한 카멜레온 이미지를 나타내는 것이다. 카멜레온의 유선형 머리부분 표현은 완만한 삼각형 모양의 후드패턴을 통해, 카멜레온의 길게 말린 꼬리 표현은 불규칙적인 플레어의 햄 라인으로 처리하여 상징적으로 표현하였다. 카멜레온 색들은 선명한 비비드 톤이면서 동시에 빛 또는 기분에 따라 색이 변화하는 것이 특징인데, 작품 제작 과정에서도 빛과 각도에 따라 드레스 색이 조금씩 다르게 보이는 효과를 가장 중요하게 연구하였다. 검정색 쉬폰 위에 퓨셔(fuchsia)색 작은 벨벳 물방울 무늬가 박힌 소재를 주 소재로 하여 표면에 입체적인 텍스처를 줌으로서 빛의 각도에 따라 두가지 색이 섞여져서 전체적으로 색이 다르게 보이는 착시 결과를 가져왔다. 허리에서의 빨강색과 파란색 계열의 다양한 스톤들은 실제 카멜레온 스킨 이미지와 더불어 돌출된 입체감과 그라데이션 효과로 인해 움직임에 따라 색이 다르게 보이는 결과를 가져왔다. 50% 쉬폰/50% 폴리에스테르에 벨벳 다트 무늬가 들어가 있는 원단을 사용하여 옷감 표면에 탄성실을 이용한 스모킹 주름효과를 주는 기술을 접목시켜 flexible한 스트레치성 옷감으로 재탄생시킴과 동시에 소재 표면에 오돌토돌한 텍스처가 생기게 하였다. 이것은 카멜레온의 표피와 흡사하면서 동시에 몸에 밀착되는 결과를 가져와 섹시하면서도 편안한 작품 이미지 표현에도 적절한 역할을 한다. 스톤장식은 아크릴릭카보숑(acrylic cabochons)과 잼스톤(gemstones)들을 섞어서 사용했는데 카멜레온 등 표피 질감을 상징함과 동시에 색이 다르게 보이는 효과를 나타낸다는 점에서 본 작품의 포인트이다. 드레스 제작은 주로 바이어스 결을 이용한 드레이핑 기법을 이용하였는데, 후드가 앞 몸판과 연결되어 있고 불규칙적인 사각형들이 앞에서 뒤로 옆 솔기 없이 연결되어 있다. 옷은 살아 움직이는 사람이 입어서 가장 편하고 즐거우면 옷의 완성도가 가장 높다고 할 수 있다. 카멜레온 드레스 역시 움직이는 신체와 함께 색이 다르게 보이는 기법과 효과를 연구하는 과정에서 편하고 즐거운 Wearable Art를 완성할 수 있었다. 바로 이점이 입는 예술 즉, 입고 즐길 수 있는 옷에 예술미를 가미한 Wearable Art의 진미가 아닐까 생각한다.

• 복식
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• 제2권
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• pp.73-88
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• 1978

This article is an attempt to explain, at least in part, the contemporary Korean women's consciousness of Western Dreasses. As time changes, the role of clothing undergoes varisous transitions, while values and ways of life are constantly in change. It is, therefore, proper and appropriate to recognize as among the major aspects of social psychology such phenomenon as interests, understanding of clothing, the choice of a dress, and attitudes toward clothing, etc. The purpose of this study is to discover problems concerning and their clothing and their solutions, by means of a surveying approach. The method of research used is based upon questionares distributed to parents of first-year pupils in elementary schools and to female clerks working in offices, covering the period from August through October, 1976. The number of the questionares distrubuted totalled 600, and 526 were returned to the research to be utilized for analysis. The contents of the survey included such things as values concerning clothing, kinds of clothing and their practical use, the selection of clothing and the method of purchase, fashions, etc. The classification of aquisition are self-made clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made materials. It is composed of 25 items, including affirmative reasons as well as negative ones. The processing of the material returned was made by using the computer, and based upon classifications such as ages, monthly income, occupations; thus diagraming the result in percentages. The conclusion made and the improvements proposed are as follows: 1. The values of clothing were placed on the expression of the wearer's personality (32.7) and on eauty(28. 6%). The lower age group places is stress upon the expression of personality, while the higher age group stresses beauty. About 50% of wearers are contented with their clothing, their clothing, the rest of whom them indicating their dissatisfaction with what they wear. As to designs at the time of selection, about 46% indicated their preference of personal expression, 31.8% on usefulness. In selecting material, practicality is emphasized; in selecting patterns, single color is preferred. In short, personal expression and esthetic values are primary, with consideration of practicality in mind. 2. The classification of clothing according to their uses indicates the highest numbers in normal wear (home wears) and clothings to be worn outside home. As to evening dresses, (party dress) only one or two articles were checked by many, and no such article was clamed to be possessed by most. The highest ratio of wearing was shown in the case of home wear (47.3%) and clothing to be worn outside the home, which is 55.8%. The budget for one article of clothing was greatest in the case of home wear, and clothing worn outside the home. Many used both kinds of articles for the same purpose. It is desirable, therefore, that the kinds of clothing should be varied according to the purpose for which they are worn, and that clothing appropriate for that purpose should be worn. 3. The motivation for purchasing clothing was highly chosen in the item of seasonal change, which was 55.7%; Clothing deliberately made was indicated by 45.2%. In the mothods of purchasing clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made was indicated by 44.4%, which is the highest; Clothing made to order was 25.4%, and self-sewing was 1.1%, which is the lowest. (1) In the case of self-sewing, "I like it but it is very hard," was checked by 43.6%; "It is so difficult that I cannot wear such clothing" was checked by 13.3%. From these, we can conclude that the questionees are willing to make clothing by themselves, but techniques involved in sewing and at her problems involved in the skill are complicated but when those problems are eliminated there is a possibility for practice. The response checked by questionees concerning the self-sewing was, "It's economical", which is a clear indication that many questionees are positive for self-sewing. It is generally believed that ready-made clothing is cheaper, but it is not necessarily so. In consideration of the quality of clothing, self-sewing is a necessity, and it is desirable that it should be encouraged. (3) Problems involved in ready-made clothing, such as designs, skills, size (fitting) should be eliminated. When these problems are scientifically gotten rid of, it is possible that affirmative returns will be expected. Affirmative responses such as "Ready-made clothing is economical," "You can select there on the spot," are good signs that many women expect to wear ready-made clothing. It is in this sense that the prospect for ready-made clothing is brighter when much development for ready-made clothing is on the way. 4. Much concern for fashion are checked in such item of questions as "Fashionable clothing in the show window," "Clothes worn by women." The first item was checked by 50.1 %, and the second was checked by 48.6%. The reason for following fashion is "Because many people wear them," which was indicated by 30.4%. The reason for not following fashion is "It is too expensive," which was checked by 29.6%. The 26.2% of the answers indicated that "Fashionable clothing is devoid of personality," The influences of fashion over the development of fashion over the development of clothing are two-fold: Esthetic and active. It is not to be deniable that people follow fashion more or less. 1978.9>

• Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.112-126
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• 1998

혈중 ZPP 농도를 생물학적 모니터링 표지자로 사용하여 새로 설립되는 축전지 제조 공장에서 작업환경과 개인위생에 대한 개선조치의 영향을 관찰하기 위하여 연취급 근로자 100명을 대상으로 입사한 시기를 기준으로 3개의 군으로 구분한 후 채용시 측정된 혈중 ZPP 농도와 약 3개월 간격으로 12-18개월간 측정되어 보관된 기록 중 혈중 ZPP 농도 자료를 분석하였다. 각 군은 개선조치 시행전인 1987년 8월의 작업장의 기중 연 농도를 기준으로 $0.30mg/m^3$ 이상인 단위 부서들을 제 I 부서로, $0.30mg/m^3$ 미만인 단위 부서들을 제 II 부서로, 비교적 기중 연 농도가 낮을 것으로 예측되어 1988년 1월부터 새로 기중 연 농도가 측정된 단위 부서들을 제 III부서로, 그리고 작업장소가 일정하지 않고 이동하면서 근무하는 단위 부서들을 제IV부서로 대분하였고, 1987년 8월부터 약 6개월 간격으로 측정된 작업장의 기중 연 농도를 분석하였다. 또한 대조군 31명중 6개월째까지 관찰되었던 22명도 채용시와 6개월 후에 측정된 혈중 ZPP 농도의 변화를 분석하였다. 작업환경 및 개인 위생에 관한 개선조치를 1987년 8월 중순부터 시행하였으며, 주 1회 보건관리자를 통한 보건교육과 건강상담이 실시되었다. 부서별 기중 연 농도는 1987년 8월부터 약 6개월 간격으로 3회 측정된 결과, 제 I 부서는 처음에는 $0.365mg/m^3$였으나 작업환경개선조치 후 $0.216mg/m^3$, 1년후에는 $0.208mg/m^3$로 감소되었고, 제 II 부서는 처음에 $0.232mg/m^3$였는데 개선조치 후 $0.148mg/m^3,\;0.120mg/m^3$가 되었으며, 제 III 부서는 1988년 1월의 측정치가 $0.124mg/m^3$였고, 8월에는 $0.081mg/m^3$였다. 제 IV 부서는 1988년 8월에 $0.110mg/m^3$였다. 대조군에서의 혈중 ZPP 농도는 31명중 6개월째까지 관찰되었던 22명에서 채용시와 6개월 후가 각각 $16.45{\pm}4.83{\mu}g/d\ell$과 $17.77{\pm}5.59{\mu}g/d\ell$로 유의한 차이가 없었다. 공장이 가동되기 전에 입사한 A군에 있어서는 채용시 혈중 ZPP농도가 $17.36{\pm}5.20{\mu}g/d\ell$였고, 3개월째에는 $23.00{\pm}13.06{\mu}g/d\ell$였으며, 개선 조치가 시행된 직후인 6개월째에는 $27.25{\pm}6.40{\mu}g/d\ell$로 유의하게 증가되었고(p<0.01), 최고치를 나타내었다. 9개월째에 측정된 농도는 $25.48{\pm}5.17{\mu}g/d\ell$로 6개월째의 검사 농도보다 유의하게 감소된 결과를 나타내었다(p<0.05). 12개월째부터 3회의 측정치는 유의한 증가나 감소가 없이 대체로 비슷한 농도의 양상을 보였다. 공장이 가동된 후 개선조치가 시행되기 전에 입사한 B군의 경우에 있어서는 채용시에 혈중 ZPP농도가 $14.34{\pm}6.10{\mu}g/d\ell$였고, 개선조치가 시행된 직후인 3개월째에는 $28.97{\pm}7.14{\mu}g/d\ell$로 급격히 증가되었으며 통계적으로 유의하였다(p<0.01). 6개월째부터 4회의 측정치는 유의한 증가나 감소가 없이 비슷한 농도의 양상을 보였다. 개선조치가 시행된 후 입사한 C군에서는 채용시 혈중 ZPP 농도가 $21.34{\pm}5.25{\mu}g/d\ell$였고, 입사한 후 3개월째에는 $23.37{\pm}3.86{\mu}g/d\ell$로 유의하게 증가되었으며(p<0.01), 6개월째에는 $23.93{\pm}3.64{\mu}g/d\ell$의 농도를 보였고, 9개월째에는 $25.50{\pm}3.01{\mu}g/d\ell$로 유의한 증가를 보였다(p<0.01). 계속하여 3개월 뒤 측정된 12개월째에는 그 농도를 계속 유지하였으며, 서서히 증가하는 경향을 보였다. 부서별 비교에서 근로자들의 혈중 ZPP 농도는 기중연 농도와는 비례하지 않았고, 기중 연 농도가 제일 높은 제 I 부서에서 오히려 더 완만한 증가를 보였으며, 기중 연 농도가 제일 낮은 제III부서에서 다른 부서보다 더 급격히 증가되는 것으로 나타났다. 이상의 결과들은 기중 연 농도와 혈중 연 농도 및 혈중 ZPP농도에 대한 모든 정보를 근로자들에게 알려줌으로써 상대적으로 높은 기중 연 농도를 나타내는 부서에 근무하는 근로자들이 보호구 착용과 개인위생에 대한 개선조치에 더욱 철저히 참가하게 되었다고 생각되며, 개인위생 및 보건교육, 상담 등의 건강증진 프로그램이 초기부터 집중적으로 실시되었기 때문이라고 생각된다. 따라서 작업환경 개선에 대한 효과도 중요하나, 개인 위생 관리, 개인보호구착용 교육 및 보건 관리의 효과도 상당히 반영된 것으로 생각된다.