• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.955-965
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• 2008

This study used the method that measure the participants' responds on the experiment, and the measurement means is a survey. The primary factor plan is $5{\times}2{\times}3{\times}2$. The independent variable are neckline(5), trousers or skirt style(2), somatotype(3), culture(2), and the dependant variables are physical visual effect and the favor of clothe design. In cases of Korean, thin somatotype had better were V-neckline suit for looking shoulders wide because they have too narrow shoulders, and were pants suit than skirt suit for looking pelvis major. thin somatotype person who wants to look tall should wear china collar or tailored collar suit with pants. If she wears round neckline suit with skirt, the lower part of body and the height look tall. Pants suit with V neckline and skirt suit with china collar make standard somatotype looked having wide shoulders. Standard somatotype person with wide shoulder should avoid this style. The size of waist and pelvis was looked thick in round neckline and was looked thin in V neckline. So it will be better to find the right suit for one's weakness. Obesity had better wear V neckline to look neck slim and not wear stand and tailored collar. When obesity person wears pants suit, she is looked having slim waist than skirt suit. In case of American, thin somatotype in pants suit looks much taller than in skirt suit when she wears round neckline and stand collar suit. Standard somatotype has no difference because it is the basic shapes. Generally, it goes with all kinds of suit design. The belly and pelvis of American's obesity look fatter and bigger than Korean's obesity. The same with Korean, round neckline suit makes obesity looked belly and pelvis fat and big.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.51-69
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.

• 한국균학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.121-122
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• 2000

경상남도농업기술원 함양약초시험장 포장에 발생한 병든 둥굴레로부터 병원균을 분리하여 병원균의 특성과 병징을 토대로 Sclerotium rolfsii에 의한 둥굴레 흰비단병을 동정하였다. 이 병의 병징은 지제부가 암갈색으로 변하고 그 위에 흰색의 곰팡이가 솜털처럼 밀생하고, 병반부위에 갈색의 둥근 균핵을 많이 형성하며 지제부 부근의 토양 표면에도 형성되었다. 병원균은 PDA 배지 상에서 왕성하게 생장하였으며 균사생장 중에 특유의 Clamp connection이 관찰되었고 균사가 가장 잘 자랄수 있는 온도는 $30^{\circ}C$이였다. PDA 배지에서 시간이 경과되면 갈색을 띤 구형 또는 부정형의 많은 균핵을 형성하였는데 균핵의 크기는 $0.9{\sim}6.8{\times}0.6{\sim}5.2\;mm$ (평균 $2.7{\sim}2.3\;mm$) 이었다.

• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2010

Pearl gowns(Jeanju-eui)' of Princess Jekukdaejang which were imported from Yuan to Goryeo in 13'th century, but correct shape and detail were unkown. Princess Jekukdaejang was a queen of Goryeo and a daughter of Kublai Khan of early Yuan period, and pearls were the most precious jewel in Mongolia of medieval time. It is possible that the shapes of Jeanju-eui were nomadic mogolian women's costume or very new style yet in early Yuan just like sleeveless long vest. In the period of Yuan, pearls were beaded on the stiff thin fabric for summer or ornaments of ladies. Big pearls were made use of point spot of pattern or line of pattern, and small pearls were usually used to fill up devided parts or to bind outline. The shapes of deducted pearl gown are five kinds of women's deel and four kinds of long vest, and deducted parts for pearl decoration are golden band from shoulder to wrist and on the knees of gown, cloud shape collar, patches on the breast and on the back, slant collar, and patterns of fabric. Red color(the favorite color of Yuan ladies), artifical pearls, ramie, and golden brocade with the gloss of satin are selected as stuffs for sample of pearl gown, but 'reproducting old fabrics' was the most important problem in making correct pearl gowns. Suggested is a cooperation with fabric makers to develop alternate fabircs with patterns just like Yuan's.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

In order to know what sorts of features of neck form may be required to make plans for tight collars, the neck form of young japanese women were measured three demension-ally using GRASP(Grating Projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL program in MACINTOSHI computer, it became possible to draft a number of neck surface auomatically, therefore, we got analysis of a mass of subjects. Thed following results were obtained: 1. There was a large individual difference in the shape of neck, in particular, on the front and side curves of the neck base line, where the undulation of clavicular part of neck and inclination of shoulder are refracted. 2. When designing a stand collar, from the viewpoint of clothing strcture, it is important to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, back neck length, back neck width & girth. 3. According to the somatotypes(turing-over, standard, bending type), there were different the method of the basic collar pattern making.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.104-116
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• 1999

This study was intended to make an inquiry into the effect of lines, shapes and colors (achromatic colors) as apparel design elements on the perceptions of facial size, brightness and shape through an empirical research based on the theories of visual perception and optical illusion that have been studied in Gestalt Psychology, which becomes the basis of apparel design principles. It was shown that the facial size was influenced by the collar size, the degree of neckline cut, and the thickness of the trimming line. The white scarf with the white jacket made the face look darkest while the black scarf with the black jacket made the face look brightest. When the neckline had the characteristic of the line contrasted with the facial shape, the oval-shaped face was perceived to be the most ideal. When the facial shape and the neckline shape were similar, the facial shape was perceived to be more highlighted.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권8호
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• 소성∙가공
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.604-611
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• 1999

This paper is concerned with the family of parts that generally feature a central hub with radial protrusions. As opposed to conventional forward and backward extrusion, in which the material flows in a direction parallel to that of the punch or die motion, the material flows perpendicular to the punch motion in radial extrusion. Three variants of radial extrusion of a collar or flange are investigated. Case I involves forcing a cylindrical billet against a flat die, Case II involves deformation against a stationary punch recessed in the lower die, and Case III involves both the upper and lower punches moving together toward the center of the billet. Extensive simulational work is performed with each case to see the process conditions in terms of forging load, balanced and symmetrical flow in the flange. Also, the effect of the gap size and die corner radii to the material flow are investigated. In this study, the forming characteristics of radial extrusion will be considered by comparing the forces, shapes etc. The design factors during radial extrusion are investigated by the rigid-plastic FEM simulation.