• Title/Summary/Keyword: Collar Width

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A Study on the Silhouette of Men's Jackets by Changing Draft (특정부위(特定部位) 제도(制度)의 변화(變化)에 따른 남성(男性) Jacket의 실루엣 변화(變化) 비교(比較) 연구(硏究))

  • Hur, Dong-Jin;Kwak, Youn-Shin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.95-102
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    • 1997
  • This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

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Stem Rot of Tawny Daylily(Hemerocallis fulva) Caused by Sclerotium rolfsii in Korea

  • Kwon, Jin-Hyeuk;Park, Chang-Seuk
    • Mycobiology
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    • v.32 no.2
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    • pp.95-97
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    • 2004
  • In July 2002, a destructive stem rot of tawny daylily(Hemerocallis fulva) was occurred sporadically in exhibition farm of Gyeongsangnam-do Agricultural Research and Extension Services located in Hamyang-gun, Korea. The fungus also caused collar and crown rot, and systemic wilt or blight of whole plant. White mycelium spread over stems and petioles of infected plants and sclerotia were formed on the old lesions and near the soil surface. The optimum temperature for mycelial growth and scierotial formations was $30^{\circ}C$ on PDA. The mycelial width ranged $4.2{\sim}10.4{\mu}m$ and the color was white, usually many narrow mycelial strand grew in the aerial mycelium and formed clamp connection. The shape of sclerotia was spherical and $1.0{\sim}3.2$ mm in diameter. The fungus was isolated repeatedly from the infected tissues and confirmed its pathogenicity to Hemerocallis fulva and identified as Sclerotium rolfsii. This is the first report on the stem rot of H. fulva caused by S. rolfsii in Korea.

The Comparative Consideration on the Basic pattern of Geo-go-ri (저고리 원형제도의 비교고찰)

  • 정옥임
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.211-228
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    • 1994
  • We consider the irrational part of the basic pattern drafting of the Geo-Ko-ri so that we want to design it more scientically. So there are problems which is found after we considered with comparison about the existingly basic pattern drafting of Geo-go-ri. (1) there is a difference between the practical and Calculation. (2) The part of the curved line was mad indistinctly There is a difference betweence the calculating expression and calculating value. (4) There are some parts which lack objectivity about the reference size. (5) The calculating method of Collar-width and Neck-Nidth are not formative and rational. These are items that we must consider and study further. Especially if we can make up of the scientific form in consideration of the formativeness focused on "git" I think it will make a great contribution to not only the standardization of the basic pattern of Geo-go-ri and the use of the use of education but also the manufacture of individual clothing the production by Auto CAD. Auto CAD.

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A Study on the Fit Preferences of the Tailored Jacket for Women Using 3D Clothes Modeling System (3차원 의상 모델링 시스템을 이용한 여성용 테일러드 재킷의 맞음새 평가)

  • Do, Wol-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.9
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    • pp.940-951
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    • 2012
  • This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

A study on the case of wearing Jungchimak and its form in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 중치막(中致莫)의 착용례와 형태 연구)

  • Keum, Jong-Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.22 no.5
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    • pp.670-687
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    • 2014
  • This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

A Study on the Construction of Court Dresses in the Daehan Empire - focused on the coat pattern - (대한제국기 문관 대례복 제작에 관한 연구 - 상의 패턴을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.56-68
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    • 2013
  • A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

Design Characteristics of New Senior Women's Coat (뉴 시니어 여성코트의 디자인 특성)

  • Bae, Siyeon;Lee, Kyoung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.157-167
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    • 2015
  • This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder's style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women's coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.

Echinostoma miyagawai Ishii, 1932 (Echinostomatidae) from Ducks in Aceh Province, Indonesia with Special Reference to Its Synonymy with Echinostoma robustum Yamaguti, 1935

  • Chai, Jong-Yil;Jung, Bong-Kwang;Chang, Taehee;Shin, Hyejoo;Cho, Jaeeun;Ryu, Jin-Youp;Kim, Hyun-Seung;Park, Kwanghoon;Jeong, Mun-Hyoo;Hoang, Eui-Hyug;Abdullah, Marzuki Bin Muhammad
    • Parasites, Hosts and Diseases
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    • v.59 no.1
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    • pp.35-45
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    • 2021
  • Adult echinostomes having 37 collar spines collected from the intestine of Pitalah ducks in Aceh Province, Indonesia in 2018 were morphologically and molecularly determined to be Echinostoma miyagawai Ishii, 1932 (Digenea: Echinostomatidae). Among 20 ducks examined, 7 (35.0%) were found to be infected with this echinostome, and the number of flukes collected was 48 in total with average 6.9 (1-17) worms per duck. The adult flukes were 7.2 (6.1-8.5) mm in length and 1.2 (1.0-1.4) mm in width (pre-ovarian or testicular level) and characterized by having a head collar armed with 37 collar spines (dorsal spines arranged in 2 alternating rows), including 5 end group spines, and variable morphology of the testes, irregularly or deeply lobed (3-5 lobes) at times with horizontal extension. The eggs within the worm uterus were 93 (79-105) ㎛ long and 62 (56-70) ㎛ wide. These morphological features were consistent with both E. miyagawai and Echinostoma robustum, for which synonymy to each other has been raised. Sequencing of 2 mitochondrial genes, cox1 and nad1, revealed high homology with E. miyagawai (98.6-100% for cox1 and 99.0-99.8% for nad1) and also with E. robustum (99.3-99.8% for nad1) deposited in GenBank. We accepted the synonymy between the 2 species and diagnosed our flukes as E. miyagawai (syn. E. robustum) with redescription of its morphology. Further studies are required to determine the biological characteristics of E. miyagawai in Aceh Province, Indonesia, including the intermediate host and larval stage information.

Geographic Variation of Seed Characteristics and 1-year-old Seedling Growth of Zelkova serrata (느티나무 종자특성의 지리적 변이와 1년생 유묘의 생장)

  • Kim, In Sik;Lee, Joo Hwan
    • Korean Journal of Agricultural and Forest Meteorology
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.234-244
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    • 2013
  • This study was conducted to determine the factors affecting to seed characteristics and seedling growth of Zelkova serrata. The seeds were collected from sixteen populations of Z. serrata and the seed characteristics (i.e., seed length, width, weight and full seed rate) were measured. We also measured the 1-year-old seedling growth of each population at nursery. All seed characteristics showed significant differences in population level. Seed length and seed width were positively correlated with latitude, longitude, altitude and distance from coast line of sampling site. Seed length and seed width also negatively correlated with annual mean temperature, mean temperature of growing season (Mar.~Oct.). The ratio of seed length/seed width showed inverse trend in case of seed length and seed width. Seed weight/1,000 grains had no correlation with geographic factors but showed negative correlation with annual mean dryness index. Seed weight/L showed negative correlation with latitude and longitude and positive correlation with mean temperature of growing season of sampling site. Full seed rate showed negative correlation with latitude, longitude and annual mean dryness index of sampling site. There were significant differences among populations, among family within population and among individuals within family in seedling growth. Height and diameter of root collar of seedling showed negative correlation with longitude and mean humidity of growing season of sampling site. Height growth of seedlings was not correlated with any seed characteristics but, diameter at root collar showed low negative correlation with seed weight/1,000 grains and seed weight/L. We discussed the implications of the results in view of tree improvement of Z. serrata.

Growth Performance of Teak (Tectona grandis Linn f.) and Padauk (Pterocarpus macrocarpus Kurz) Used in the Enrichment Planting for the Restoration of Degraded Tropical Forests in Myanmar

  • Oo, Thaung Naing;Lee, Don Koo;Park, Yeong Dae
    • Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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    • v.97 no.5
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    • pp.540-546
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    • 2008
  • Enrichment planting has been used as one of the promising restoration techniques to accelerate the natural restoration process of secondary forests or logged-over forests in Myanmar, The objectives of this study were to examine the growth performances of two commercial species such as Teak (Tectona grandis Linn f.) and Padauk (Pterocarpus macrocarpus Kurz) in response to different canopy opening treatments and to examine the suitability of these species in enrichment planting activities for the restoration of degraded tropical forests in Myanmar. In this study, split plot design was applied, and three levels of canopy openings were experimented. The survival rate and height growth of two species were measured four times with 6 month interval. The root collar diameter (RCD) was also measured in the last assessment. Although the survival rate of seedlings was not significantly different among the three treatments (p>0.05) as well as between two species (p>0.05) for all consecutive measurements, height (p<0.05) and RCD were significantly different (p<0.001) among the treatments, T. grandis seedlings thrived best under complete canopy opening (i.e., 5 m width canopy opening with strip-clear cutting) while P. macrocarpus seedlings under partial canopy opening (without felling of marketable tree species). Because this study is concerned with only for young stage of seedlings, continuous assessment and follow-up tending activities are needed to verify the species suitability and optimum width of canopy opening for enrichment planting activities in restoration of degraded forests of Myanmar.