• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.421-430
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• 2011

This study suggests the proper collar laying amount to be actively used in the clothing industry by identifying the characteristics of collar and other related components according to the collar laying amount. This study comparatively analyzed the characteristics of each collar laying amount (2cm, 2.5cm, 3cm, 3.5cm, 4cm, and 4.5cm) after making 6 tailored jackets. The results are as follows: 1. The best shape of collar and lapel appeared when the collar laying amount was 3cm and 3.5cm. 2. Depending on the collar laying amount, the shape of collar, roll line form of collar and lapel, collar width, collar stand, the position and width of roll line changed. As the collar laying amount increased, the length of collar edge became longer, and the collar stand decreased. In case the collar laying amount was small (2cm, 2.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became narrower. On the contrary, when it is large (4cm, 4.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became wider. 3. Collar laying amount as well as the length of the neck line of collar affected the shape of the collar roll line around the neck.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.117-133
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• 2014

This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar, and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting the representative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selected by fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder, head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by a team of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated into average. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into a graph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to the width and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inversely proportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hair style. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those of neckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional to the hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collar were proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar were inversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationship among neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change of the hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, the width of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those of neckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was more resistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting their frequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of width showed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair style evolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.143-159
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• 2005

This study was done to provide basic data for clothing design and thus to contribute to the academic development at the clothing and textile area and collar roll line lay down angle variation at collar width on the open collar. The study was composed as tallows: 1. The variation at collar outer wall size increase collar roll line lay down angle size the more Increase. 2. The outer wall and stand height size increase aware at variation collar width at the more Increase. It is desirable that this study will be at help to enchancement of life style in garments and promotion of garments industury by developing the archetype basic collar pattern suitable to Korean women's garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.185-196
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• 1981

This study concerns Jeugo-ris' collar patterns according to the pictures of the actual measurement of the bequests in Yi dynasty. In early Yi dynasty not only outside collar but also inside collar was the Mog-pan collar. In middle Yi dynasty many Jeugo-ris' bequests has been discovered. The form of the collar was various In before and after the 1590's, the Mog-pan collar and Kal-collar, Dang-ko callar was coexisted. But after the 1700's Jeugo-ris' collar pattern was fixed to the Dang-ko collar. In early and middle Yi dynasty the width of the collar was three or four times as wide as it on these days. In late Yi dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared from the 1900's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.105-119
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• 1982

This thesis is mainly about the changes of Garment's collar(옷깃) and outer collar (옷섶) which indicate the identification of dress history. Through the observations of some reports about important folk materials and genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on Yi-Dynasty. (1400-1900) For the shape of the outer lapels(겉깃) of Korean Jacket(저고리) were used together Squar-Tray-Collar(목판깃), Sharped-Collar(칼깃), and Dang ko-Collar(당코깃) and coming to the end of inner lapels(안깃) formed squar-tray-collar. Squar-tray-collar and sharped-collar were mainly used together for the shape of the outer lapels of Korean overcoat(포). Dang ko-collar was seen only in two overcoat. Coming to the 18th centry, the outer lapels became round-edged like those of jackets, while the inner lapels formed squar-tray-collar. In the process of positional changes of the collar and outer collar of Korean jacket and overcoat, the outer lapels positioned outside the outer collar, or a part of width of collar's positioned upon the outer collar, or the whole outer lapels positioned inside the outer collar. And through these changes the current position of the outer lapels became settled in the end of the 19th centry. But the inner lapels did not undergo many changes compared with the outer ones, and their position was mainly outside the outer collar like those of current lapels. And the garment's collar and outer collar of jacket and overcoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie(고름) became large.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.249-263
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• 1996

According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.167-186
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• 1994

The purpose of his study is to investigate the relationship between the business cycle and the fashion of silhouette from 1956 to 1992. Correlation analysis an regression analysis were used to investigate the relation of them. In this study, the coincident composite index was used as business cycle and change of skirt in length and width, collar and pants in width wee thoroughly checked through graphs and photographs. The results of analysis are as follows. 1. When the economy is to ascend, the skirts are short and narrow. On the country, when the economy is descend, they are long and wide. 2. The business cycle gives influence on skirts line and with, that is, about 18%, 33% of total changes. 3. In change of fashion, skirts length and width had significant positive correlation and they showed a tendency to move together. On the other hand, the change of collar and patterns in width have no connection with business fluctuation. 4. The change of fashion is affected by the movement of itself. According to analysis that includes the trend of skirts, about 50%, and 35% of changes in skirts length and width were decided by them,. and about 52% and 35% of change in collar and patterns width were decided by them.