• Journal of Korea Foundry Society
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.190-194
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.161-172
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• 2015

In this study, characteristics of modern fur fashion were reviewed and aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion were analyzed. The results of this study are as follow. Aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion between 1980s and 2000s are conspicuousness, sensuality, elegance, activity, humor and abnormality. Conspicuousness was displayed in oversized fur coat in vivid leopard pattern, mink coat trimmed with rich fox fur or leopard patterned fur jacket in hot pink. Sensuality was displayed in white and gray soft mink coat worn over mini dress, soft mink jacket which is short enough to expose legs or soft fox best accentuating chest and arms. Elegance was displayed in soft fox coat in silver, luxurious mink coat with slim silhouette that flows with body line or silver bolero made of mink and silk with slim silhouette. Activity was presented in mink pullover with loose silhouette or rabbit jacket that emphasized functionality by having zippers or hem made of rubber. Humor was presented in unique and humorous patterned fur jacket or exaggerated and unique form of fox bolero. Abnormality was presented in mink jacket made of combining alien material with deformed proportion and form or outer that emphasized vague form by using long and big fox fur.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• Animal Bioscience
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1479-1488
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• 2022

Objective: This work was to determine coat inheritance and evaluate production performance for crossbred pigs from Berkshire×Chenghua (BC) compared with Chinese indigenous Chenghua (CH) pigs. Methods: The coat color phenotypes were recorded for more than 16,000 pigs, and the genotypes of melanocortin 1 receptor (MCIR) gene were identified by sequencing. The reproductive performance of 927 crossbred BC F4 gilts and 320 purebred CH gilts was recorded. Sixty pigs of each breed were randomly selected at approximately 60 days of age to determine growth performance during fattening period, which lasted for 150 days for BC pigs and 240 days for CH pigs. At the end of the fattening period, 30 pigs of each breed were slaughtered to determine carcass composition and meat quality. Results: The coat color of BC pigs exhibits a "dominant black" hereditary pattern, and all piglets derived from boars or sows genotyped E^D1 E^D1 homozygous for MC1R gene showed a uniform black coat phenotype. The BC F4 gilts displayed a good reproductive performance, showing a higher litter and tear size and were heavier at farrowing litter and at weaning litter than the CH gilts, but they reached puberty later than the CH gilts. BC F4 pigs exhibited improved growth and carcass characteristics with a higher average daily live weight gain, lower feed-to-gain ratio, and higher carcass lean meat rate than CH pigs. Like CH pigs, BC F4 pigs produced superior meat-quality characteristics, showing ideal pH and meat-color values, high intramuscular fat content and water-holding capacity, and acceptable muscle-fiber parameters. C18:1, C16:0, C18:0, and C18:2 were the main fatty acids in M. longissimus lumborum in the two breeds, and a remarkably high polyunsaturated/saturated fatty acid ratio of ~0.39 was observed in the BC F4 pigs. Conclusion: The BC F4 pigs exhibit a uniform black coat pattern and acceptable total production performance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.87-99
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the successful modernization strategy, and the difference between original Burberry and Burberry Prosum design. This will help in providing the fundamental information to Korean luxury fashion brands. Burberry, in particular, is rated as the most popular luxury brand in Korean fashion market. This brand has also rated 5th in sale worldwide and 1st in Korea in 2002, and was continuously been rated in 10th for the last 5 years. Related articles, fashion magazines, fashion web-site were used in this analysis, and the method was theoretical and case study. The results are divided into two categories of internal and external factors and two design patterns of check pattern and trench coat were observed. First of all, internal factor in Burberry is that they have scouted a new CEO and quickly changed their image with famous British models for the purpose of marketing strategies. They have also moved their main shop in London to Bond street, and opened shops in every country's capital cities. They were successful in achieving this by using celebrity marketing strategies with many famous celebrities. Secondly, external factor was that they have hired a designer named Christoper Bailey and this highlighted and enhanced the check pattern and trench coat. As a results, more generalized and diverse design items were presented and accessory line was enhanced, creating a much more younger image. This in turn attracted more younger customers. To sum up, original Burberry focused on classic designs, however Burberry Prosum focused on transforming traditional Burberry design into avant-garde and young. In other words, the reason for the success of this brand is highly dependent on its marketing strategies in which its uniqueness of schizophrenic cloche has appropriately represented and used in design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 2013

We previously observed that Bacillus subtilis spores from sspE mutants presented a lower germination capacity in media containing high salt concentrations (0.9M NaCl). This deficiency was attributed to the absence of SASP-E (gamma-type small-acid-soluble protein), rich in osmocompatible amino acids released by degradation. Herein we observed that, in addition, this mutant spore presented a reduced capacity to use L-alanine as germinant (L-ala pathway), required longer times to germinate in calcium dipicolinate ($Ca^{2+}$-DPA), but germinated well in asparagine, glucose, fructose, and potassium chloride (AGFK pathway). Moreover, mild sonic treatment of mutant spores partially recovered their germination capacity in L-ala. Spore qualities were also altered, since sporulating colonies from the sspE mutant showed a pale brownish color, a higher adherence to agar plates, and lower autofluorescence, properties related to their spore coat content. Furthermore, biochemical analysis showed a reduced partition in hexadecane and a higher content of $Ca^{2+}$-DPA when compared with its isogenic wild-type control. Coat protein preparations showed a different electrophoretic pattern, in particular when detected with antibodies against CotG and CotE. The complementation with a wild-type sspE gene in a plasmid allowed for recovering the wild-type coat phenotype. This is the first report of a direct involvement of SASP-E in the spore coat assembly during the differentiation program of sporulation.