• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.506-515
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• 2020

Surfing is a sport sensitive to changes in the natural environment, using naturally occurring waves. In other words, factors such as the construction of coastal structures, coastal erosion, and sediment transportation could cause the wave to change into a direction inappropriate for surfing at the shore where surfable waves were reaching. In this study, we call the characteristics of the coastal environment that affect the formation of surfable waves as surfing resources, which is subsequently analyzed by coastal engineering methodologies. Also, using Delft3D-WAVE module (SWAN model), a way to evaluate sustainability of surfable wave is suggested through analysis of surfing resources at Jukdo, Yangyang, Gangwon Province, Republic of Korea.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.121-131
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• 2019

The coast of BiIn Bay, Seocheon, is the potential site for the field-trip learning program. This article is written in the viewpoint of geographical and environmental education. In this study, it is tried to describe geomorphological landscapes of BiIn Bay Seocheon-gun relating with it's physiognomy, based on the Dasa-ri and Songrim-ri coastal sanddunes and the like. Although landforms like tidal flats and rock cliff constitute prominent landscape features in this area, other features such as beaches, coastal dunes, and coastal plains have various ramifications for human communities. Tidal flats, beaches and coastal dunes are formed by the combined actions of longshore current, tidal flows, waves and winds. To some extent, the erosion of sandy coast has been a global phenomenon. Anthropogenic impacts are involved in the transformation of landform. Most favorable field-trip course of BiIn Bay is from Songrim-ri through Dasa-ri and Shinhap-ri to Maryang-ri. This program about coastal landforms in BiIn Bay will contribute not only for educational meanings but also for satisfying the student' curiosity and interest. Also, this field-trip learning program will be suitable for over 4th grade elementary school students and middle school students.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.667-681
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• 2004

This research is aimed to investigate the relationship of the effective wind velocity and the morphological change in coastal dune at Sindu-ri in Korea. Sediment flux was estimated by the measurement of elevation change along eight transects deployed in the study area from July 1999 to July 2000. The results of this study indicated that. first. based on the occurrence of morphological change and winds effective for sand movement. two distinct seasons were identified: a season of deposition and that of erosion. During the depositional season, spanning from November to April, effective winds were dominant and sand accumulation occurred mainly in foredunes and sequentially in dune plains. During the erosional season, from May through October, volume change was small and erosion or sand loss occurred mostly at the dunefoot of foredunes. Secondly, the research revealed that the sediment budget of Sindu coastal dune turned out to be surplus on the whole, but there are some regional differences. Deficit budgets were observed partly in secondary dunes. The utmost northern part of Sindu coastal dune was provided with abundant sand, whereas the central and northern parts were poorly supplied.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Proceedings of the KGS Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.50-52
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• 2005

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.581-589
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• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2010

A terrestrial LiDAR was used to acquire precise and high-resolution topographical information of Malipo beach, Korea. Terrestrial LiDAR and RTK-DGPS (VRS) were mounted on top of a survey vehicle and used to scan 20 times stop-and-go method with 250 m spacing intervals at ebb tides. In total, 7 measurements were made periodically from 2008 to 2009 and after each beach replenishment event. We carried out GIS-based 3D spatial analysis such as slope and volume calculations in order to assess topographical changes over time. In relation to beach replenishment, comparative analysis of each volume change revealed them to be similar. This result indicates that the terrestrial LiDAR measurements are accurate and can be used to analyze temporal topographical changes. In conclusion, the methodology employed in this study can be used efficiently to exercise coastal management through monitoring and analyzing beach process such as erosion and deposition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.06a
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• pp.241-243
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• 2014

Recently, as the coastal erosion impacts greats to both social and economical aspects, each local government is trying to setup its countermeasures. However, it is necessary to survey the change of sediment movement characteristics and investigate the continuous environment change by long-term monitoring after building prevention constructions. In this study, predictions on wave deformation and sediment movement deduced through the numerical modeling are made, based on the ordinary and extraordinary wave through seasonal superiority wave direction, height, period and long-term wave characteristics on the eroded beach of central West sea.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1433-1444
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• 2016

South Korea is a maritime nation, surrounded by water on three sides; hence, it is important to preserve in a sustainable manner. Most areas, especially those bordering the East Sea, have been suffering from severe coastal erosion. Information on the sediment yield of a river basin is an important requirement for water resources development and management. In Korea, data on suspended sediment yield are limited owing to a lack of logistic support for systematic sediment sampling activities. This paper presents an integrated approach to estimate the sediment yield for ungauged coastal basins by using a soil erosion model and a sediment delivery rate model in a geographic information system (GIS)-based platform. For applying the sediment yield model, a basin specific parameter was validated on the basis of field data, that, ranging from 0.6 to 1.2 for the 19 gauging stations. The calculated specific sediment yield ranged from 17 to $181t/km^2.yr$ in the various basin sizes of Korea. We obtained reasonable sediment yield values when comparing the measured data trends around the world with those in Korean basins.