• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.418-424
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to propose a standard of converting 3D shape of men in twenties to 2D patterns. This can be a basis for scientific and automatic pattern making for high quality custom clothes. Firstly, representative 3D body shape of men was modeled. Then the 3D model was divided into 3 shells, front, side and back. Among them, the front shell was divided into 4 blocks by bust line and princess line. Secondly, curves are generated on each block according to matrix combination by grid method. Then triangles were developed into 2D pieces by reflecting the 3D curve length. The grid was arranged to maintain outer curve length. Next, the area of developed pieces and block were calculated and difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area is calculated. Also, area difference ratio by the number of triangles is calculated. The difference ratio was represented as graphs and optimal section is selected by the shape of graphs. The optimal matrix was set considering connection with other blocks. Curves of torso upper front shell were regenerated by the optimal matrix and developed into pieces. We validated it's suitability by comparing difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area of optimal section. The results showed that there was no significant difference between block area and the pieces' area developed by optimal matrix. The optimal matrix for 2D developing could be characterized as two types according to block's shape characteristics, one is affected by triangle number, the other is affected by number of raws more than columns. Through this study, both the 2D pattern developing from 3D body shape and 3D modeling from 2D pattern is possible, so it's standardization also possible.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.40-50
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• 2018

This study is intended to develop a fashion styling training program for female international marriage immigrants. To collect basic data for program development, a total of ten female international marriage immigrants living in Changwon, Gyeongsangnam-do, were interviewed on relevant subjects, such as clothing life and their interest in fashion and fashion training programs. According to the interviews, they prefer Korean fashions, have difficulty purchasing and coordinating clothes while living in Korea, and felt that others were staring at them because of their appearance and fashion styles. For the question about interest in fashion, most respondents answered that they have great interest in fashion and managing their appearance. For the question about the need for a training program in fashion styling for female international marriage immigrants, most respondents answered that it is necessary, and most respondents also answered that they would participate in such a program if it were available. The contents of the training program for fashion styling for female international marriage immigrants was composed of the following sections: Understanding of Fashion Styling, Variety of Fashion Styling, and Fashion Styling Practice. The section on the understanding of fashion styling is composed of the concept of fashion styling and the elements of fashion styling. The section on variety in fashion styling is composed of styling based on fashion image, face type, body type, and TPO. The section on fashion styling practice is composed of the practice of fashion styling on an actual person based on the knowledge obtained through the program.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.860-868
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• 2009

To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.886-897
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• 1999

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. But girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem it is necessary to classify girls' lower body Into several kinds of somatotypes and to develop dress form. The purposes of this study was to classify lower body types of middle-high school an provide the dress forms based on the analysis of their lower body types. The subjects for anthropometric measurement were 402 middle-high school girls of 13 to 15 year-old. The result of factor analysis indicated that 5 factors were extracted from anthropometric measurments through factor analysis and those factors comprise 71% of total variance. 4 clusters were categorized using 5 factor scores by cluster analysis 4 lower body dress forms for middle-high school girls were made of gypsum mould. By the analysis of more photograph three dimensional characteristics of somatotype and overlapped cross-section diagrams were analyzed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.651-657
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• 2007

This study was carried out to analyse body configuration and to observe any space between skin and foundation. A special 3D scanner was used to analyze this foundation. Experimental foundations were brassiere, girdle, and all-in-one. Four subjects volunteered, each subject was scanned while wearing foundation and not wearing foundation. Body shape variations were analyzed with an Auto CAD and ScanWax program which analyzes cross section of the skin surface to look for any changes. Height was increased all parts of body, circumference was increased in breast and bust while wearing the foundation. The hip thickness was not increased with wearing the foundation. Therefore this foundation makes people have a different appearance due to unexpected body shape variations. The effects of this foundation should be classified by observing height, circumference, and thickness changes in the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.452-466
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to proviede basic data for designing sports-brassiere by a questionnaire survey about sports-brassieres preferences and physiological wearing test. The results of the survey and the physiological wearing tests on sports-brassieres are as follow; 1. According to the survey, dissatisfied factors on the sports-brassiere are "drooping and vibrating of the breasts". Preferable factors are supporting breasts by stretch and seldom changing its position by motion. The bigger cup-size and more hemispherical-type causes more discontent than flat-type. 2. The shape of breasts is oval, on what ground, horizontal line is longer than vertical. For the cross section of bust line, shirts type.brassiere is more gently curved than cup-brassiere. 3. The feeling of wearing comfort is correlated with bust.up, shield, close adhesion. The vibration of breasts is correlated with covering urea and close adhesion, and the changing band's position by movement, close adhesion. Too much covering area or strain are in inverse correlation of the comfort. 4. The rate of prevention of vibration is 75~80% on superior sports-brassieres, which has broad covering area and excellent close adhesion. adhesion.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.161-183
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to develop a concept map in a visual instructional strategy so that meaningful learning can be done by structuring knowledge in the section of eco-friendly clothing life and reform clothes. For this purpose, ten textbooks for the 2009 revised were analyzed, and 10 sub-area were selected to develop the concept map. The development was done by using Cmap Tools V6.02 and the study process has progressed content analysis, concept extraction, and concept map development. The analysis process and results of this study are as follows. First, in the course of setting standards, the analytical standards were set for the 2007 revision and 2009 revision curriculum achievement standards. Second, in the process of content analysis and concept extracting, through the analysis of textbooks, 'clothing selection and purchase', 'clothing care and management' and 'clothing reuse and eco-friendly'. The concept was extracted by subdividing on the basis of general and comprehensive core concepts. Third, the development process of concept map was developed and revised based on the extracted concepts, and the concept map developed was the 'clothing purchase plan', 'points to consider when buying clothing' 'quality', 'handle with care', 'classify laundry', 'remove stain', 'water washing', 'repair clothing', 'reform clothing', 'eco-friendly clothing life'.