• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.6
• /
• pp.880-892
• /
• 2017

In this study, the appearance change and the heat moisture transfer properties of knitted fabric by yarn shrinkage were examined to obtain useful data on the development of thermo-sensitive functional materials. Eleven types of knitted fabric were knitted using highly bulky acrylic-blended yarn. After shrinking the specimens using dry heat treatment, the appearance change and thickness were measured. An HEC simulator was adopted for measuring the heat moisture transfer properties of specimens by yarn shrinkage. When holes were arranged vertically in the mesh structure, the specimens with 2,500 and 5,000 holes showed high percent change of hole area, appearance, and thickness. When holes were diagonally arranged in the mesh structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 1,250 holes was larger than the one with 2,500 holes. However, the dimensional stability of the specimen with 2,500 holes was better because of its smaller appearance and thickness change. In the tuck structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 625 and 416 holes was relatively large compared with the appearance and thickness change. Furthermore, the hole size in the tuck structure was smaller than that in the mesh structure but the percent change of hole area was larger. Therefore, it was proved that the tuck structure is more suitable than the mesh structure for developing thermo-sensitive functional materials. Heat moisture transfer property test verified that the change of hole area by yarn shrinkage enabled obtaining the thermal effect due to the distinct temperature difference in the inner layer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.655-670
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify the figurative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the patterns of royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty based on the theoretical examination as well as the overall characteristics of the colors based on the quantitative analysis of colors. This study focused on the costumes of King Young royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty which is the last costume of Joseon Dynasty and classified 129 relics under preservation for the analysis. This study analyzed the colors using the digital data in the picture brochure as the previous studies did and presented the color palette. Based on this, a variety of textile designs that are developed by using the traditional patterns and colors could be applied to the modern fashion designs. For Patterns used in costumes of King Young royal families, the five pattern categories include animals, plants, letters, and geometric patterns and the final category of other types. The features of color in the costume were v tone of Y color and lt and p tones of Y color. The implication of this study is to develop textile designs which reflects conversion of past and modern cultures and cultural identity by applying the traditional cultural elements through literature review and empirical study and theses developed 8 textile designs could be applied to the various modesrn fashion designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.27 no.6
• /
• pp.632-644
• /
• 2019

This study presents an efficient clothes-sizing system for those experiencing obesity in old age with the aim of revitalizing the clothing industry for older obese people. The study targets 249 obese men aged 60 to 85 who satisfy a Rohrer index score of 1.6 or higher and a BMI (body mass index) of 25 or higher. Elderly obese males showed more obesity in the body based on the waist. In particular, those in their 60s were the most obese, and after reaching their 70s, characteristics of old age in which the stature was reduced and the limbs were tapered were shown. The clothes-sizing system was set to 5cm in stature, 5cm and 3cm in chest girth, 2cm in waist girth (omphalion), and 2cm in hip girth according to the KS standards. Through the two-way distribution of each section, the name of the section with a high distribution was given. Casual tops were selected from eight sizes, ranging from 155 to 170cm in stature and 95 to 105cm in chest girth. Suit top sizes were selected from eight sizes, ranging from 160 to 170cm in stature and 94 to 103cm in chest girth. Bottoms suggested 10 sizes distributed between 90 and 100cm in waist girth (omphalion) and 92 and 98cm in hip girth. According to the KS standards, the detailed size was divided into the basic part and the reference part.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.89-97
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze the difference and influence of educational institutions and majors on education service quality, learning satisfaction, and educational institution loyalty, and to provide information on an Academic Credit Bank System appropriate for the two types of education institutions and learners. Looking at the difference in education service quality, learning satisfaction and educational institution loyalty, Lifelong Education Organizations of Universities showed positive awareness compared to Job Technical colleges. Especially, differences in awareness regarding quality of education facilities were largest, followed by educational institution loyalty and learning satisfaction. Looking at the difference in awareness according to educational institution and majors, learners at Lifelong Education Organizations of Universities had positive awareness compared to Job Technical colleges in terms of quality of facilities, learning satisfaction and educational institution loyalty. No difference was found according to major. Looking at the effect of awareness of education service quality on learning satisfaction and educational institution loyalty, factors of education service quality affected learning satisfaction in the order of education>administration>facilities for Lifelong Education Organizations of Universities, and the effect on educational institution loyalty was found in the order of administration> education with no effect shown by facilities. For learners at Job Technical colleges, factors of education service quality affected learning satisfaction in the order of administration>education>facilities. Influence on loyalty to educational institution was found in the order of administration>facilities>education.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.28-41
• /
• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.11 s.213
• /
• pp.59-71
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to observe the makeup behavior and cosmetics preference based on the segmented age group and fashion appearance interested group. The target consumers were women aged in their 20's. We distributed 443 questionnaires and conducted statistical analysis using SPSS program for the 400 reliable questionnaires. Statistical analyses included frequency, Chi-square test, t-test, ANOVA and cluster analysis(K-means). The results of this study were as follows: 1. There was a significant association between specific cosmetic items currently used and segmented age group. The age 24-29 had more basic makeup than color makeup, compared to the age 20-23 group. There was a statistical difference between the highly interested group and the lowly interested group in fashion and beauty. The group of highly interested in fashion and beauty considered trendy colors, while the group of lowly interested in fashion and beauty used their favorite color as an important factor in purchasing makeup products. 2. There was a significant difference in the preference of lip colors and textures, eye shadows textures, types of eye liner and types of foundation according to segmented age groups. 3. Those who sought 'sexy' images preferred red/wine/purple lipstick colors, and green/blue/violet eye shadow colors. They significantly preferred jell/liquid type eye liner and liquid type foundation. Those who sought 'pure' images preferred orange colors and glossy textures of lipsticks. Those who sought 'elegant' and 'intellectual' images preferred pearl type eye shadow.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.21-27
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this research is to understand the physiological characteristics of muscular men between the ages of 20 and 34 years who are distinct from the general population due to their muscular development, and to categorize them according to upper body somatotypes. This research was conducted in order to provide basic data necessary for developing clothing products for muscular men. The research method and results were as follows: 1. The study carried out factor analysis with the body measuring value of 168 muscular men according to the body classification method of Sheldon and Heath-Carter. The study materialized muscular men's lower body types statistically by carrying out cluster analysis, regarding scores of each factor extracted from the factor analysis as an independent variable. The study also carried out discriminant analysis with the results of cluster analysis classified so that morphological characters of each type were remarkably distinguished. 2. As the results of factor analysis, the study set up number of factors as three. Factor 1 occupied 38.149% of the total variables as a size factor of the lower body. Factor 2 occupied 20.417% of the total variables as a height and length factor of the lower body. Factor 3 occupied 8.466% of the total variables as a length factor of the hip. 3. The study classified the lower body type into three types and the characteristics by each type were as follows. Type 1 was a group with the best developed muscle in the lower of the body, considering that a size of their lower bodies was the largest. Type 2 was well-balanced muscular males though a size of the lower body was smaller than other types. This type didn't have fatness of the abdomen and large hips. Type 3 was a body type that the length from the waist to the hip was long. 4. As the results of carrying out discriminant analysis to distinguish muscular men's lower body types, the discriminant accuracy was 86.3% over all in the lower bodies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.8
• /
• pp.82-96
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.5
• /
• pp.14-34
• /
• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.8
• /
• pp.45-56
• /
• 2011

This study is about the features of hybridization of ethnic-cultural elements in Korean fashion magazines. Its purpose was to embody more creative and newer images in fashion by promoting better mutual understanding of foreign cultures and addressing the issues of fashion design from multicultural perspectives. In doing so, the present study conducted a literature review and analyzed a total of 130 photographic images with any hybrid ethic element from two Korean fashion magazines, Vogue Korea and Harper's Bazaar Korea, issued between 2005 and 2009. The analysis revealed that there were 66 images(50.8%) with a mixture of two different cultures and 64 images(49.2%) with a mixture of three or more different cultures. As seen from the results, the two categories had a similar number of cases. In regional terms, the use of two different cultural elements included a mixture of Asian and Western cultures in 32 images(24.6%), a mixture of Western and African, Middle Eastern or Latin American cultures in 23(17.7%), and a mixture of Western and Russian or European folk cultures in 11(8.5%). In the use of three or more different cultural/national elements, the present study found a mixture of Asian, African, Middle Eastern, Latin American and Western costume items in 20 photo images(15.4%), a mixture of African, Middle Eastern and Latin American elements plus Western costume items in 19 images( 14.6%), a mixture of all regional cultures in 13 photos(10%), and a mixture of Asian ethic cultures plus Western costume items in 12 cases(9.2%). The results of this analysis indicated that the hybridization of ethnic-culture elements in Korean fashion magazines consisted of diverse clothing and accessories from various ethnic groups. The expression of these multi-cultural hybrid images that consists background images and models from different cultures well-portrayed the multi-cultural elements based on total coordination and broke the stereotypical aspects of styling.