• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.542-555
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• 2006

The main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between benefits segmentation and knitwear purchasing behavior of college female students in the U.S. The questionnaires for this survey were developed to measure knitwear purchasing behavior and benefits segmentation. The questionnaire was administered to 119 female college students in the University of California. The data was analyzed by percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The female college students in the U.S. were classified into fourth subdivisions by the cluster analysis. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to benefits sought subdivision in observation of famous people's clothing, fashion articles in magazines and newspapers, TV advertisements, Newspaper advertisements, advice of salespeople, and Catalogs. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product of consumers were significantly different depending on benefits sought subdivision in design/style, quality of construction, fashionable, brand and store name, pleasing to others, prestige, and sexy. The store attributes of knitwear product of consumers were significantly different depending on benefits sought subdivision in friendliness of sales personnel, product knowledge of sales personnel, brand names, new fashion, and variety of products. The outlook for the industry of knitwear look to remain bright, there should be a continuous effort to research and invest in consumer satisfaction of knitwear.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.63-77
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.12
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• pp.43-54
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• 1998

From the viewpoint of clothing construction, it is necessary to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck and the shouder, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, the shoulder gradient, the shape of the scapular, and the shape of the breast. In this report, factor analysis was applied to 39 items of neck & shoulder level measurements, including stature, weight, but grith, waist girth, to demonstrate the most relevant measurements for collar and bodice pattern designing, and to classify the neck and shoulder level shapes. The subjects investigated were 126 women of the age 20-29. The main results are follows : 1. For factors of body form were extracted by the factor analysis. The 1st principal component can be interpreted as "size" component, the 2nd-3th principal component is "shape" component relating to neck and shoulder level, and the 4th principal component is "shoulder shape" component. 2. With regard to factor loadings, we were able to extract the most relevant measurements for collar and bodice pattern designing. M16, M22, S26, S30, S34, S35, S36, C37, C38, C39.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study examines the unique characteristics of the color red in relation to images used in areas other than fashion, such as the film or advertising industries. Based on analysed results, the aim was to identify red-colored costume's images expressed in contemporary fashion. Analysis of collected data has lead to four main findings. First, the fashion in which the red color is used delivers a voluptuous image when combined with a skinny silhouette or glossy and transparent dress material, arousing a strong sexual desire in a direct or indirect manner when exposing the body in public. Second, the fashion emphasizes a simplified appearance by minimizing the steps of the production process such as cutting, sewing, and decoration without artificial structural lines and creates an image of simplicity through a single red color or tone-in-tone colorations. Third, the red color, which carries a simultaneous negative and pleasure image represents grotesque playfulness by distorting or exaggerating clothes, transforming the body in disregard of clothing construction, or introducing unnatural makeup. Fourth, in combination of simple and clinging shapes, a material feeling tough like leather and an intensely noticeable red tone, promotes the feminine rather than masculine quality in a splendid, aggressive sporty and active "alpha girl" image.

• International Journal of High-Rise Buildings
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.53-60
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• 2020

"A practical architect might not unnaturally conceive the idea of erecting a vast edifice whose frame should be entirely of iron, and clothing the frame--preserving it--by means of a casing of stone…that shell must be regarded only as an envelope, having no function other than supporting itself..." --Viollet-le-Duc, 1868. Viollet-le-Duc's recipe for an encased iron frame foresaw the separation of structural and enclosing functions into discrete systems. This separation is an essential characteristic of skyscrapers today, but at the time of his writing cast iron's brittle nature meant that iron frames could not, on their own, resist lateral forces in tall structures. Instead, tall buildings had to be braced with masonry shear walls, which often also served as environmental enclosure. The commercial availability of steel after the 1880s allowed for self-braced metal frames while parallel advances in glass and terra cotta allowed exterior walls to achieve vanishingly thin proportions. Two Chicago buildings by D.H. Burnham & Co. were the first to match a frame "entirely of iron" with an "envelope" supporting only itself. The Reliance Building (1895) was the first of these, but the Fisher Building (1896) more fully exploited this new constructive typology, eschewing brick entirely, to become the first "building without walls," a break with millennia of tall construction reliant upon masonry

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.721-736
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• 2003

As for the purposes of the research: First, on the wearers of snowboard wear on the market, I intend to investigate contents related with purchase, price, brand, style, etc., and grasp requirements and complaints. Second, I intend to know the evaluations of users according to itemized questions on the snowboard wear on the market. Third, I like to provide basic materials by investigating itemized requirements for the development of snowboard wear. On the male & female snowboarders on a skiing ground, I carried out a preliminary investigation in December, 2001, and a main investigation from January to February, 2002. The results are as follows: 1. Many of them purchased imported quality goods, and the rate purchase was high between 20～25 year. Loose two-piece suits of different colors were preferred. The most uncomfortable part proved to be a neck part. 2. The degree of general satisfaction with the snowboard wear on the market was 4.60. And in terms of itemized evaluation, dissatisfaction was found in Clothing construction, facility of laundry and handling, price and brand rather than in style, fiber composition and tactile sensation. 3. In the investigation of the requirements in case of snowboard wear development, the most common requirement was the facility of action. I believe this should be met by study on the choice of pertinent margin and the pattern development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.159-174
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• 2017

It is very important to preserve the form of traditional costumes and to set the prototype for the design and production of various Korean costumes. This study therefore attempts to analyze the Danryeung pattern methods in textbooks in order to propose a prototype of Korean costumes and a system suitable for modern men, focusing on the Danryeung of the Joseon Dynasty. The research method examined the flow of the Danryeung system in the Joseon Dynasty through previous studies and literature, and the portrayal of the appearance of people of the time through portraits and paintings. The purpose of this study is to analyze the measurements and patterns of textbooks' Danryeung based on the analysis of characteristics of the 5th Joseon Dynasty. From that, the study will analyze the differences between textbooks and artifacts and will propose a Danryeung system for the body shape of modern males in their 30s. In this study, it is meaningful to propose the guideline for the design modification of Korean costumes by providing basic data for subsequent productions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.1-22
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• 2015

This study provides the basic data for clothing construction of teen girls by researching and analyzing the characteristics of physical changes of tween generation school girls between 8 to 14 age. Fifty eight items of direct measurements and 61 calculated-items based on the 6th Korean National Physical Standard Reports were used. Results were obtained by using ANOVA, SNK test, coefficient of variation and growth rate of age groups. Significant differences were found among all the age groups, and were in the increasing order of height > length > width > depth > circumference. The growth rate was found in the increasing order of bust depth > hip width > N.P. to B.P. > hip circumference > bust circumference and thigh circumference. There were dramatic increases in height, circumference and width during the age of 8~9 and 10~11, in length during age of 10~11, and in depth during age of 8~11. The growth of the vertical measurement items is slowing at the age of 13. The individual differences were great in the vertical measurements at the age of 8 and 9 and in the horizontal measurements, at the age of 10. The increasing growth of bust and hip than waist gave it a curved shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.163-170
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• 2019

This study utilized the wearing test of subjects and a preference survey to determine wearing preference on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, slopping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to five domestic clothing construction books. A total of 15 blouses were made and tested by different bodices and sleeve types. The wearing test of subjects had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing as well as evaluated the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The preference survey was given to 100 females and was conducted using photos with combinations of three types of sleeves and shoulder angles in a survey under the same conditions. The average shoulder showed that set-in with the highest score in the wearing test was also preferred in the preference survey. The slopping shoulder evaluated the highest score in the wearing test by mirror; however, the preference survey showed that raglan was the most preferred choice. The squared shoulder showed that raglan with a high score in the wearing test by mirror was also preferred in the preference survey.