• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.28-46
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to classify the concept expressed in the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play, and supplement logic, which is process of the changeability of fashion style. The specific research questions are as follows: first question deals with the relationship between changeability and la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images, and how la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images are divided by each phase and how their circumduction play is proceeded. The second question is about the important features of the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and the method of la diff${\acute{e}}$rance play. The last topic of this study covers the supplement logic and the condition, and how supplement logic has been applied in the process of changeability of fashion style. This paper deploys a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play is the root of power, which is controlling the changeability of fashion style, and the objective of the play is to outline new la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images through spatialization of time. In addition, supplement logicis the method of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and the purpose of the logic is to harmonize 'ultimate la diff${\acute{e}}$rant image', which is the phenomenological construction stratum in the state of sub-conscious changeability, and 'immediate la diff${\acute{e}}$rant image', which is the structural construction level stratum in the state of external changeability. This research proves that the intrinsic attribute of changeability is contained the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and supplement logic.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.514-522
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• 2013

This study reviews the principles for the techniques of Impressionist paintings as well as analyzed contemporary fashion designs with a focus on a motif-building technique based on the laws of a screen equivalent as a visual formative approach. We provide design principles based on fashion design painting techniques. Previous research on the laws of the screen equivalent of Impressionist paintings were studied and a qualitative analysis was conducted on fashion design cases from 2011, 2012 S/S and F/W collections. The analysis resulted in the following outcomes. First, the development of new motifs were found directly correlated to the creativity of design if it was a motif-building design. Second, in the selected fashion design cases, cutting lines and details were covered by motifs and their shapes collapsed in regards to overall visual uniformity so that specific details were hard to identify. Third, clothing shapes are recognized the changing colors of motifs and not through construction pattern lines; therefore, the expressions of diverse visual forms were available without being disturbed by construction pattern lines. This is deemed equivalent to an Impressionist painting style that depicts shapes with colors instead of lines. Lastly, the cases covered in this study have created new visual aspects that replace the stereoscopic spatial depth of clothes with a 'sensuous surface'. The pleasures derived from the sensuous surface are deemed equivalent to the visual pleasures created by Impressionist paintings.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.357-374
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• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.325-337
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• 2002

We examined the contamination of stream water and stream sediments by heavy metal elements with respect to distance from the abandoned Backun Au-Ag-Cu mine. High contents of heavy metals (Pb, Zn, Cu, Cd, Mn, and Fe) and aluminum in the waters connected with mining and associated deposits (dumps, tailings) reduce water quality. In the mining area, Ca and SO$_4$ are predominant cation and anion. The mining water is Ca-SO$_4$ type and is enriched in heavy metals resulted from the weathering of sulfide minerals. This mine drainage water is weakly acid or neutral (pH; 6.5-7.1) because of neutralizing effect by other alkali and alkaline earth elements. The effluent from the mine adit is also weakly acid or neutral, and contains elevated concentrations of most elements due to reactions with ore and gangue minerals in the deposit. The concentration of ions in the Backun mining water is high in the mine adit drainage water and steeply decreased award to down stream. Buffering process can be reasonably considered as a partial natural control of pollution, since the ion concentration becomes lower and the pH value becomes neutralized. In order to evaluate mobility and bioavailability of metals, sequential extraction was used for stream sediments into five operationally defined groups: exchangeable, bound to carbonates, bound to FeMn oxide, bound to organic matter, and residual. The residual fraction was the most abundant pool for Cu(2l-92%), Zn(28-89%) and Pb(23-94%). Almost sediments are low concentrated with Cd(2.7-52.8 mg/kg) than any other elements. But Cd dominate with non stable fraction (68-97%). Upper stream sediments are contaminated with Pb, and down area sediments are enriched with Zn. It is indicate high mobility of Zn and Cd.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.63-79
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• 2011

This study examines the relationship between breast shape and brassiere construction through the comparative analysis of brassiere pattern on the breast shape. This researcher drew the brassiere pattern of developing a pre-study for Chinese female adults according to average size based on the four breast shapes. And then we measures brassiere pattern size and comparatively analyzes breast between size and shape. Comparative analysis results of brassiere patterns are verified differences of size and shape on the breast shape. Above all an angle of cup dart showed remarkable differences on the breast shape. An angle of cup dart isn't proportioned to breast size. An angle of cup dart for cone shape is bigger than dome shape. Because cone shape breast is protruded center part but dome shape breast have a shape of smooth curve like a half globe. So an angle of a cone shape breast cup dart is determined bigger than dome shape breast. For increasing the uplift effect of brassiere, brassiere pattern is different on the breast shape. And a brassiere pattern need different drawing methods about the angle of cup dart, breast inner side diameter, slope and so on. This study has an important significance that it established a mechanical relationship of breast shape and brassiere pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.26-41
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• 2005

In this study homosexuality as a discourse represented in contemporary fashion magazines is explored in context. The main concerns are the contemporary construction of homosexuality, fashion symbols to identify homosexuals, and relationships between homosexuality and heterosexual masculinity in fashion images today. After elaborating homosexuality conceptualized historically, an analytical framework from Foucault's discursive approach was made up to interpret the fashion spreads since 2000. As a result, as it is assumed that the concept of homosexuality is constructed by historical specificity, homosexual fashion styles are dynamic. So, it should be recognized that they are formed by power relationships with heterosexuality, and other social factors such as class, race, age, and consumer culture and market trends. On the basis of photographic themes and fashion looks homosexual images are classified into 3 kinds of versions, the effeminate trend setter, the masculine athlete or biker, and the neo camp. However, most of contemporary homosexual photographs are not also so conspicuously different from heterosexual ones. Therefore, in the contemporary structure at least from fashion images, homosexuals can be recognized equally with heterosexual people only except for sexual preference. Thus, homosexual fashion also shares a lot of fashionable products with heterosexual one, with often homosexuals' role as trend -setter.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.127-139
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examin wearing satisfaction and needs of the caregivers' uniforms. The questionnaire survey was conducted on 303 who are serving in the geriatric hospital and general hospitals in Seoul and Gyeonggi, Chungcheong region. It was coherently found on the whole that the irrelevance to the fitness of size system influenced the discomfort, and the relation between discomfort and satisfaction revealed negative-correlation, and the higher the discomfort is and the lower satisfaction is, the higher their improvement needs are. Particularly, the higher the discomfort on the fitness of size system is and the lower its satisfaction is, the higher the improvement needs on the size system and activities are. As a result, the clothing construction and the selection of materials for the complement of the fitness and discomfort's incongruity is required. Namely, the yoke of the back area and the various detail for the activity, the materials satisfying stretch, good-touch, antibiotic functionality, and the expansion of the size system are needed.