• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제17권4호
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.191-202
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the form of the clothing of the Scythians who lived in the northern region of the Black Sea. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and catalogs of Scythian exhibitions held in Germany, a country where famous Scythian research was collected and analyzed. Results of this study are as follows: Regarding the basic form, there was no change in the appearance of the Scythian clothes which can be linked to social classes and regional background. But the detailing of the clothes changed. Russian archaeologist Klocko has stated that decorative bands of ancient costume appear to depend on the construction of ancient clothing. I have analyzed the upperjacket of Scythians with the decorative bands based on the research of Klocko. From this analysis could be observed that decorative bands of upperjacket had also been varied depending on their region and their social status. The decoration of the revers of upperjacket differs according to social status. According to their width, trousers were classified in types; in narrow and wide. The basic set up of the narrow-type is as follows: the trouser is divided into voluminous straight forms and leggings in close contact with the legs. The width of a trouser differs according to the social status of Scythians and from the region where they lived. Regional differences could be observed more significantly, than differences resulting from social status.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제40권6호
• /
• pp.1025-1033
• /
• 2016

It is important to compare and analyze digital camouflage from different countries to promote the continuous development of a camouflage combat uniform. This effort should lead to developing a camouflage pattern suitable for the domestic environment and expand its performance of night camouflage. This study investigates digital camouflage by comparing camouflage fabrics sampled from Korea and eight other countries (USA, UK, Singapore, Croatia, Colombia, and Mongolia) in terms of textile, near-infrared reflectivity of colors, and color distribution. First, the fabric construction of camouflage from Korea, UK, US, Singapore, Span, and Croatia were all characterized by derivative plain weaves, while derivative twill weaves were generally used in Croatia and Mongolia. It is assumed that derivative plain weaves are adopted to improve the tearing strength of fine yarns. However, twill weaves enhance the flexibility of coarse yarn fabrics. Next, reflectivity change was analyzed based on camouflage color. The reflectivity of a combat uniform in Korea, Colombia, Croatia, and UK increased before 780nm in the visible light range, but remained consistent from 800nm which falls under the near-infrared range. In contrast, camouflage samples in Mongolia, Span, Singapore and USA showed a gradual increase of reflectivity in the near-infrared range. Finally, the color distribution analysis of digital camouflage found that camouflage of countries with desert or woodland combat settings dominantly contained brown colors. It indicates the color pattern consideration of different geographic regions is important to determine camouflage performance. This research involves basic study that will have implications for developing patterns and colors suitable for the South Korean environment and expand its use as night camouflage that helps achieve continuous improved camouflage performance.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제20권4호
• /
• pp.153-171
• /
• 2016

With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제8권3호
• /
• pp.8-15
• /
• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제27권5호
• /
• pp.433-448
• /
• 2019

Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates "big" looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the "Big" look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권5호
• /
• pp.640-650
• /
• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.93-104
• /
• 2017

This study is a basic study to develop shoe last design technology to enhance and revitalize the competitiveness of the handmade shoes. In-depth interviews were conducted with four manufacturers in Seongsu-dong to identify the production status and design technology of shoe lasts. The result of the research is as follows. Firstly, shoe lasts for adults are produced at intervals of 5mm between 245mm-285mm for men's shoes, and between 220-260mm for women's shoes. The production rate of women's shoes was high in the order of general type, boot type, and sandal type while men's shoes mainly produce general type. Secondly, the master last size and ball girth rating for men's and women's shoes were analyzed to EE-EEE grade at 260mm and D grade at 235mm. The length of the master last for men's shoes is 276-290mm, the heel width is 60-65mm, the ball width is 88-90mm, the ball girth is 250mm, and the waist girth is 248mm. The length of the master shoe last for women's shoes is 236-245 mm, the heel width is 50-55mm, the ball width is 78-80mm, the ball girth is 211~213mm, and the waist girth is 213~215mm. Thirdly, the last grading deviation is 5mm in length, the heel width is 0.5mm, the ball girth is 3.5mm, and the ball with is 1.2mm. The ball girth dimensions of Oxford type, slip-on type, and sneakers type are made at 250mm, 248mm, and 245mm for men's shoes. For women's shoes, the ball girth dimensions of pump type, loafer & boot type, and sandal type are made at 211~213mm, 214~215mm, and 211mm. Fourthly, t+he construction of the automation system is insufficient and almost completely depends on manual production.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권12호
• /
• pp.1582-1594
• /
• 2005

이 연구의 목적은 패션디자인에서의 형태의 중요성을 이해하는 새로운 시각을 제시하는데 있다. 뵐플린과 드롱의 이론을 바탕으로 Flat St Rounded, Closed & Opened 과 Part & Whole의 세 가지 형태를 보는 시각을 가지고 Vionnet와 Dior 작품에서의 형태미를 분석하는데 적용시켜 고찰해 보았다. Vonnet와 Dior은 그들의 디자인에서 형태와 구조를 디자인의 기본원리로 하여 기하학적인 형태를 그들의 디자인에 적용시킨 디자이너들이다. Vionnet의 10작품과 Dior의 11작품을 선정해 Belong의 visual priorities diagram을 적용시켜 각 디자이너 작품의 형태미를 고찰하고 비교해 보았다. Vionnet는 의복과 인간의 신체 사이의 관계를 통해 새로운 형태미학을 창조해 냈으며 그녀의 작품은 2차원 또는 3차원이라는 공간의 차이에 따라 형태의 전위를 보여주는 독특한 형태학적 특성을 보여주고 있다 그녀의 작품은 2차원의 공간에서는 평면적이고 닫힌 형태인 삼각형, 사각형, 원으로 구성되어 있으나 바이어스 재단에 의한 입체재단 방법을 통해 3차원의 공간에서는 입체적이고 열린 형태로의 형태변형을 한다는 특징을 나타낸다. Dior의 작품은 인체의 자연스러운 형태보다는 인위적인 형태미를 보여주고 있으며 이는 Vionnet작품과의 커다란 차이점이다. Dior은 3차원의 공간에서 구, 각기둥, 원기둥, 각뿔, 입방체와 같은 입체 기하학의 형태를 사용하여 의복의 형태를 만들어 냈고 이는 다아트 변형, 보닝, 개더, 턱, 플리츠, 셔링과 같은 구조주의적인 기술을 통해 실현되고 있다. Dior의 작품은 3차원의 공간에서 인체의 형태와는 무관한 의복 자체만의 형태를 가지고 있으며 이는 입체적이고 닫힌 형태적 특성을 가진다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권6호
• /
• pp.935-946
• /
• 2008

종교는 인간을 궁극적인 삶의 조건과 관련시키는 일련의 상징적인 형식과 행위이다. 종교사상은 상징을 통해 세상을 이해하고 또 상징을 통해 행위를 유발한다. 본 연구는 종교가 복식에 미치는 영향과 그 메커니즘을 규명하는데 목적을 두고 문헌을 중심으로 연구를 하였다. 세계 고등 종교 중 불교, 힌두교, 이슬람교를 중심으로 연구하였으며, 종교의 여러 구성요소가 의례로 표현되고, 복식으로 표출되는 메커니즘을 연구하며, 그러한 일련의 과정을 도식화하여 제시하는 것에 목표가 있다. 믿음체계, 경험, 공동체, 의례 등 종교의 구성요들은 긴밀한 상호 연관성을 갖는다. 특히 의례는 종교적 의미를 표현하는 상징적 행위이자 실천이며, 구원의 방편이다. 모방의례, 긍정적 혹은 부정적 의례, 희생의례, 통과의례 등의 종교적 의례들은 제사와 같은 종교 예식은 물론, 종교음악이나 복식, 건축, 미술 등의 조형예술로 표현되어 왔다. 종교는 삶의 의미를 밝혀 주고, 불안이나 갈등과 같은 문제의 해결책을 제시해 주는 신앙체제로서 복식을 포함한 문화 전반에 큰 영향력을 끼쳐 오고 있다.