• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1107-1115
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• 1996

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing condition (seam line; wp, wf, 45$^{\circ}$ bias, stitch density; 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2 mm), 4 stitch/cm (2.5 mm), thread; sp 60$^{\circ}$s/2, sp 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 50$^{\circ}$s/3)) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The correlations of the easing and sewing conditions were by SPSS PC), and visual test was done by enlarged photo. The results obstained were as follows:. 1. The easing contraction ratio is increased in proportion to the low of stitch density. 2. The easing contraction ratio of wp, 45$^{\circ}$ bias is correlated with stitch density, and that of wf be with stitch density, elongation & weight. 3. The easing contraction ratio of 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm) is correlated with flexible rigidity, and that of 4 stitch/ cm (2.5 mm) be with flexible rigidity and crease-resistance. 4. As a results of SPSS PC+ statistics, the easing contraction ratio is statistically correlated to the seam line, stitch density, upper thread tension, and fabric characteristics. 5. As a results of visual test by the enlarged photo, the limit of stitch density for easing contraction was 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.530-537
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop the measuring tool that can grasp the relationship between body and pattern, the result can be directly digitalized and developed as the pattern as body form is. There are 6 measurements; 1) the width of front and rear neck 2) the slant degree of shoulder 3) the degree of protrusion of breasts and scapulae 4) the separation of front and rear board 5) space between body and clothes 6) vertical strand in the clothes Developed measuring tool is handy in un. in which points of body to be measured are small, and it has the capability of designing the high fitness for body. The measurer developed through this study is named as $\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$, size paper is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Paper$\lrcorner$and the pattern made by$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern$\lrcorner$respectively by our team. The result of this study is thought to make a great contribution to solving the various problems which can be derived in the time of pattern design because of the difference of physical forms in the same size as well as the difference between the factor of size and that of form in body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.941-952
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• 1999

The purposes of this study were to provide the fundamental data on elementary school girls' somatotype for their clothing construction by contemplating the stage of physical growth dividing into the period of school age and characterizing the variation of body type according to the school age. The results are as follows : 1. Form the results of one-way variables analysis and multiple comparson test(Duncan's test) classification of the period school age can be divided into 'early grade(1 2 grade)' ' middle grade(3 4 grade)' and 'later grade(5 6 grade)' 2. As the results of analyzing Mean Coefficient of Variation and Standard Deviation graph for direct and indirect measurments and index especially of the Coefficient Variation that explain individual difference of growth the items of height indicates individual difference related with height of lower body of early grade group the items of length individual difference related with length of upper body of later grade group and the items of circumference make little difference. The items of anagle makes pretty higher value that direct measurements and especially in lower angle of chest make a distinctive difference, This fact proves that children's somatotype change from the belly part extruded forwards of early and middle grade to the upper body part slanted slightly forward of later grade.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.163-178
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• 2009

Fashion pictorials are recognized as another form of communication method beyond the concept of simply providing information or being artistic photography. Therefore, it is believed that there is necessity to know methods of making a strong impression on people's conscience by effective usage of various presentation techniques that can be used in fashion pictorials. This research studied characteristics of closed form and open form of Wolfflin's precept of forms presented in scene construction. Depaysement technique was classified into three classes which are alien transportation of a part, deformation and ambivalence of an image through literature review of depaysement presentation technique. After studying the concept and characteristics of narrative applicable as the open form, Annie Leibovitz's "Alice's Adventures in Wonderland" published in an actual fashion magazine was analyzed as an empirical study based on the theoretical research. Through this study, potential of applying depaysement technique as a presentation technique of closed form and narrative as a presentation technique of open form on fashion pictorials was identified. Factors that infuse creativity and achieve uniformity in producing fashion pictorials were shown through analysis of actual fashion pictorials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop middle school girl's' school uniform sizing system according to their body types. The data collected with anthropometric measurements from 390 middle school girls aged 12-15 years old was analyzed using t-test, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis. A new sizing system was developed in accordance with each of the 2 body-type clusters. The analysis of two-way distribution of 'height-bust girth' and 'height-waist girth' was conducted for the girls of the first grade, which is the time when they purchase their school uniforms. The interval of sizing system was defined in consideration with the most efficient distribution of the body sizes utilizing Loss Function. This study also provided Reference-Sizes and Growth-Allowance Measures for each sizing system to help pattern drafting and clothing construction of the uniform manufacturers. The cover ratio of sizing system proposed by this study was higher when compared with that of the National Agency for Technology and Quality and uniform manufacturing companies, Thus, the result of this study is expected to make up the current sizing system of the school uniform.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.31-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to offer fundamental data for classification of somatotype for boys of elementary school age. The subject were 458 elementary school boys aged from 7 to 12 living in Pusan. Data were collected by 56 anthropometric 11 photoraphic measurements and 41 body indices. 56 anthropometric measurements were analyzed by ANOVA and method of Duncan-test as Multiple Range Test among 6 grade groups and then total 108 measurments were analyzed by statistical data processing. The results are as followings: 1, In Duncan-test boys were significantly different in most of height and length items but were not significantly different in main items for clothing construction among 1.2/3.4/5.6 grades so that the period of elementary school age were divided with 3 periods. 2. According to increase school age most of item's means increased gradually and personal difference for each items increased too. In case of height and length items the items of lower half were greater than the items of upper half in personal difference and depth items were greater than the breadth items in personal difference. And weight and angle items were very great personal difference is specially.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.335-342
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• 1999

This study is aimed at providing useful data which can be utilized for the design of their dress forms and enhancing the fitness of their apparels. To this end 330 pre-school children living in the capital area and aged from 4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results of this study can be summarized as follows ; 1 By the analysis of overlapped cross section diagram and silhouette diagram of each somatotype both had a common shape of lean-backed upper troso. 2. The type 1 showed less dimensions in most scales than type 2 while their shoulder were less developed. The type 2 showing more development in each element. 3. As a result of comparing the dress forms designed in reference with classified somatotypes and the commercial ones it was found that the former ones had the upper body part slanted slightly backwards and the belly part extruded forwards while the latter had a straight posture with large shoulder parts. After all the commercial dress forms were found not to reflect the actual somatotypes of Pre-School children's.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.249-263
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• 1996

According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.