• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.130-139
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• 1994

This study was performed to provide the dress form for high school girls' clothing construction which can reflect the characteristics of their body. Two hundred and forty seven high school girls aged from 15 In 17 were directly measured. The results obtained from this study were as follows ; 1. High school girls' somatotype was similar to that of young adult women. They had the features of well developed upper trunk and well developed breadth, but less developed depth. 2. The correlation between length item and the other items was small enough to interpret that each item was independent. There was a Positive correlation between depth item and girth item. And, Observed correlation between weight and Rohrer's index and breadth, depth and girth item was much larger than expected, which showed that weight and Rohrer's index influenced on fatness factor. 3. Through factor analysis, six factors were extracted from anthropometric measurements. The first factor was representing upper body volumn which expressed the characteristics of somatotype better than any other factors, the second factor was breadth, the third factor was size, the fourth factor was length, the fifth was back shape and the sixth factor was shoulder shape. 4. For development of dress form for high school girls, directly anthoropometric measurements were used. The dress form constructed through this study represented the characteristics of high school girls, therefore this would be very useful to manufacture clothing for them in the future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.133-153
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• 2009

Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.963-973
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• 2008

Clothing pressure is closely connected with the degree of comfort of an athlete's tight-fitting garments. Therefore, the construction of sports garments is very important to the wearer's athletic performance. In this study, the fundamental relationship between the reduction rates of stretch fabrics and clothing pressure was explored with the aim of improving clothing comfort and obtaining a systematic pattern reduction for women's tight-fitting bodysuits. A women's bodysuit pattern was obtained by the draping method using a dressform. The basic pattern was divided into four parts and changed into reduced pattems according to the amount of fabric stretch determined by ASTM D2594. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 20 locations (shoulder, 9 locations; bust, 5; and armhole, 6). Among the 15 garments tested, the mean pressure of the A1 bodysuit was 4.60 $gf/cm^2$, and that of the C5 bodysuit was 22.98 $gf/cm^2$. The mean pressures of the bodysuits with reduction rates of 10% and 20% were below 10 $gf/cm^2$, while those of suits with reduction rates of 30%,40%, and 50% (except C5) were below 20 $gf/cm^2$. The pressure at the shoulder was 9.50$\sim$32.24 $gf/cm^2$, which was higher than that at the bust (3.34$\sim$24.56 $gf/cm^2$) and the armhole (0.95$\sim$12.15 $gf/cm^2$). The mean pressures of the 15 bodysuits were divided into five groups using analysis of variance (ANOVA), and were found to be significantly different (p<0.001). Regression analysis afforded the following expression: mean pressure ($gf/cm^2$) = 1.607 + 0.369[reduction rate (%)].

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.247-260
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• 2021

While it is an important element of clothing construction, research has so far been very limited on the similarities between virtual and real clothing in terms of the type of neckline. The purpose of this study is to verify the similarity, accuracy of virtualization, and actuality of neckline, which all play an important role in individual impressions and image formation, and require considerable modification when fitting real samples. A total of 5 neckline models were selected through the analysis of dress composition textbooks. The selected designs were then planned and manufactured in muslin. The specimen clothes were then tested on a female model in her 20s. 2 kinds of virtual bodies were created in order to compare the real and the virtual dressing. The first virtual body was made through an Artec 3D Eva scan of the model, and the other was made by entering the model's measurements in a CLO 3D program. A visual image of the front, side, and back image of both the real and virtual dressing were subsequently collected. The collected images were then evaluated by 20 professional fashion workers who checked the similarity between the real and the virtual versions. The current study found that the similarity between the actual and virtual wearing of the five neckline designs with reality appeared higher with the virtual wearing image using the 3D-scanned body. The results of this study could provide further information on the selection of appropriate avatars to clothing companies that check the fit of clothing by utilizing 3D virtualized programs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.109-113
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• 2004

The present study attempted to consider the effects of cutting lines in the knee parts of slacks on the clothing pressure and comfort. The study compared and analyzed the pressure imposed to the body in a stooping position and the consequent sensations felt by the wearer according to the slack shapes. The conclusion was drawn as follows: The pressure imposed by the slacks to the body is greater on the two points slightly upper and lower from the knee point than on the knee point itself, regardless of the slack shapes. Clothing pressure was lower in the slacks with 10 cm-wide and 14 cm-wide cutting lines in the knee parts than those with 18 cm-wide cutting lines. Subjective sensations felt in the knee parts were analyzed according to slacks shapes. As a result, it was found that slacks without cutting lines on the knee parts or with sewing lines far from the knee points were more comfortable. In slacks construction, the use of cutting lines in the knee parts can decrease pressure imposed to the knee area or improve the comfort of the slacks. When designing slacks, however, overall appearance should be considered and the weakness of cutting line that makes legs look shorter should also be complemented.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1027-1039
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• 1995

Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.515-526
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• 2009

From traditional ceremony to science technology, origami was used as technique for artistic creativity and functionality based on formative characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive characteristics of functionality in fashion design using origami technique. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, fashion magazines, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In various fields of design, the category of the expressive characteristics was classified as efficient correspondence of space, compositive convergence of function, variable potentiality of form and human ergonomic optimum. In recent origami fashion based on functionality, the efficient correspondence of space was expressed constructive or decorative pocket design, using on clothing surface and varied design by lifestyle. The compositive convergence of function was expressed innovative connection of fashion items or non-fashion items and deconstructed classical clothing pattern. The variable potentiality of form was expressed control of form by irregular fold, dynamic metamorphosis by organic fold and creation of varied clothing silhouette. The human ergonomic optimum was expressed metamorphosis mechanism from two dimension to three dimension, suitable construction to physical ability and limit and organic form based on articular folding. The functional origami fashion means reflection of nomadic lifestyle, maximum of usability, pursuit of playful sensibility, creation of new body aesthetic and pursuit of technology and humanism. And the result of these study may be used for creative inspiration in fashion design because of unique characteristics.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.363-369
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• 2000

This study examined to obtain the basic data related to fashion information and to identify residents for educational program for the community residents. The data were analyzed by using $x^2-test$ by sex, age, education level, and income. Total 476 subjects were surveyed in Taejon. Findings of the this study provided some results to develop educational programs for community people. The major results were as follows. 1. There were significant differences in needs of community residents by age. Needs were divided into two categories, they grouped teen aged and twenties into thirties and forties. Thus, education contents necessarily involved fashion design, fashion coordination. The data suggested that educational program contents should be differed by age such as the image making by clothes, clothing construction, and checking of body shape. 2. It showed significant differences in residents by educational level. 3. There were not significant differences in residents by income. 4. About 70% of residents answered that educational program should be implicated clothing recycling and management of clothing and textiles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.35-44
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• 1985

This research explored the effects of abrasion, laundering, and abrasion/laundering interaction upon wear of 15 durable nonwoven fabrics. Wear was measured in terms of changes in tensile strength and stiffness. The test materials consisted of nine different dry-laid commercial interfacing fabrics of various fiber contents and six spunbonded poyester and polypropylene fabrics. Three fixed levels of abrasion and four fixed levels of laundering made up the 3$\times$4 factorial analysis used for the experiment and the analysis of variance. Findings revealed that abrasion had a greater effect than laundering on strength and stiffness of the tested fabrics. Laundering seemed related to the particular fibers used and to the fixation quality of fiber bonds. Spunbonded webs performed better than dry-laid webs in retaining tensile strength Stiffness change occurred more readily than strength change. Lighter, flexible, stretchable fabrics seemed less easily abraded than heavier, stiff, less stretchable fabrics. The interfacing fabrics of 70/20/$10\%$ nylon/polyester/rayon blends with high crosswise stretchability effectively resisted wear caused by abrasion and laundering. Further research is recommended to study the effects of longer abrasion periods and additional laundering cycles o,1 wear qualities of nonwoven fabrics. Additional factors such as amount and fixation methods of bonding agents, the effect of shear distortion, seam construction, and drycleaning solvents could also be studied.