• Title/Summary/Keyword: Clothing construction

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Development of the Fundamental Methodology of Lower Cup Pattern depending on 3D Shape Analysis of Breast (3차원 형상 분석을 통한 브래지어 하컵 패턴의 원리 분석)

  • Lee, Okkyung;Hong, Kyunghi;Lee, Yejin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.45 no.1
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    • pp.94-105
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    • 2021
  • This study analyzes the shape change of the breast according to the replica combination method of the lower cup and suggest a pattern construction for the end use purpose. To provide appropriate brassiere patterns to each individual who has various 3D shape characteristics, the ways of layout of 3D replicas were investigated as well as evaluated subjectively and objectively. As for experimental brassieres, basic replicas from the mold cup of long-run brassiere were combined into five different ways to find the appropriate lower brassiere cup pattern. Eighteen women wore experimental brassieres and their breasts were analyzed using the Geomagic Design X program (3D System, Inc., Korea). As result, the pattern that matched the vertexes of the four pieces of the replica and naturally spread the bottom part was best for raising and pushing toward the inside breasts. The fit was good in the case of a pattern in which the convex portions overlapped both sides of the four replica pieces where the vertexes and the bottom part naturally spread apart. The subjects were able to differentiate comfortably fitted brassieres and highly functional brassieres.

A Study on the Origin of the Clothing Terms and Their Interpretations -Focusing on the Misused Foreign Languages- (의류용어의 원류와 그 의미분석 -오용되는 오래어를 중심으로-)

  • 조규회
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.933-945
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the current foreign languages of clothing terms which have been misused, clarify the meanings and suggest the unified teams. The results are as follows. First, English and Japanese are great parts of the origins of the clothing terms in foreign languges which have been misused. And next, there were French, German, Portuguese and Spanish via English and Japanese. Especially, the misused foreign languages in styles, materials of clothing are also via English and Japanese. The compound words in Japanese are many parts of them and misused Japanese, Japanese via English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Poltuguese, and some terms can not be found their origin. (ex: 색채, 컬러, 카라) In case of the colors of clothing, the terms have the English marking rules and the Japanese pronounciation. And some unified terms are Korean, English, and Chinese letters. (ex: 빨강, 레드, 적색) There are lots of the misused foreign lagusges in sewing terms. On each case, the corresponding words in English and Japanese were suggested to understand easily. The most of the unified words were suggested in Korean. (ex: 하찌사시 $\rightarrow$ 하자시; padding stitch, 팔자뜨기) In clothing construction, there were lots of the misused terms in Japanese and the corrupted terms of Japanese. And so the explains and the unified terms were suggested. (ex: 구세토리, 몸새맞춤, 나찌, 가위집 (내기)) Finally, the origins of terms in western history of costume were clarified and analyzed the meanings : $\circled1$robe, $\circled2$ jacket, gipon, pourpoint, doublet, justaucorps, habit, flock(coat), cutaway, swallow tail coat, 배광, lounge suit, $\circled3$ coat Robe is the gown style garment which was used by men and women from the Middle ages, the jacket is a short, coat-like garment and coat is a long outer garment. Each origin is different, however the 'jacket' and the 'coat' were used confusely in the middle of 19th century.

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An Analysis of 2005 Summer Women's Street Fashion in Dalian, China (2005년(年) 여름 중국 대련시 여성(中國 大連市 女性) 스트리트 패션 분석(分析))

  • Cheon, Jee-Young;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

A Study on Establishment of the Standard Sizes for Hanbok - For 18~26 year old women - (한복의 표준 치수 설정을 위한 연구 -18~26세 여성을 중심으로-)

  • 박현정;이순원
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.91-100
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of the study is to investigate the actual conditions of ready-to-wear Hanbok and is to establish the standard sizes for the women's ready-to-wear Hanbok. Twelve ready-to-wear Hanbok shops were investigated for the actual survey. Body measurements were taken from May to June, 1990 from 329 female college students living in the Seoul and Buchon. The ages of the subjects were 18"26. Thirty seven measurements were taken from each subject and analized for the results. Data were analized by factor analysis, and regression analysis. The results were as follows ; 1. As a result of the actual survey, the situation of the quality label was not enough. The size classification was not unified, and was not trusted statistically, it cannot satisfied consumers. 2. Factor analysis identified the two dimensions of body measurements 1 one was relevant to the height measurements including stature and to the length measurements of limbs, and the other was relevant to the trunk girth measurements and the limbs girth measurements. 3. because of plane construction of Hanbok, employed in this thesis was bl-dimensional sizing system using two controle dimensions including height factor(stature) and girth factor(bust girth) . 4. The Multiple regression formula was developed for estimating secondary dimensions of Hanbok Construction, in which stature and bust girth were posited as independent variables. 5. As a results, about 88.6371 of expected distribution were covered by 9 sizes, which were used as the basis for defining sizing system for Hanbok construction.tion.

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The Qualitative Study for Construction of Internet Shopping Behavior Model of Apparel (의류 상품의 인터넷 쇼핑 행동 모형 구성을 위한 질적 연구)

  • Kim Seon-Sook;Rhee Eun-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.9_10 s.146
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    • pp.1285-1294
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    • 2005
  • This study was fulfilled in the purpose of proposing construction strategies of Internet shopping-mall through the analysis of consumer moving line in Internet shopping-mall. This study was executed in two stages: theoretical study, qualitative study. In the theoretical study, hypothetical Internet shopping behavior model were constructed. Five internet shopping behavior types of apparel : purchase, searching purchase, prepurchase deliberation, information accumulation, opinion leadership and recreation were constructed. Next, consumer decision process were extracted from previous studies and a hypothetical internet shopping behavior model was constructed on the base of consumer decision process and Internet shopping behavior types. And then, through the qualitative study, Internet shopping behavior types were identified and hypothetical model was confirmed after adjustment. For qualitative study, 30 subjects were sampled by focus sampling and investigated by in-depth interview and observation. Seven internet shopping behavior types of apparel were found by the qualitative study: cautious purchase by price comparison, searching purchase, special low price purchase, impulse purchase, prepurchase deliberation, information accumulation and recreation-oriented. On the base of these behavior types, Internet shopping behavior model was adjusted and completed. Finally, according to the results of this study, Internet shopping construction methods that made customer's loyalty high and marketing strategy of Internet shopping-mall were proposed.

A Study on the Construction of the Jegory in the Chosen Dynasty Period -Focus on Relationship Simii and Jegory- (조선시대 저고리의 구성원리에 관한 고찰 -심의 구성과의 관련성을 중심으로-)

  • Jung Hae-keung;Kwon Young-suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.12 no.1 s.26
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    • pp.37-43
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    • 1988
  • The purpose of this study is to compare Jegory with Simii, and to understand the construction of Jegory, assuming that Jegory is related to Simii system. The results obtained are as follows ; 1. Teie-ku-li was the first record among the name of Jegory in literature, was called about A.D. 1408. 2, When Jegory and Simii were cut, front-back width and sleeve length standarded on the width of cloth. 3. The cutting of Jegory disposed to seperate right and left width, to connect front and back width up to the middle term of Chosen Dynasty Period. 4. The sewing order of the Simii was Dungsol-Jindong-Baerae-Sougu. The sewing order of the Jegory in $\ulcorner$ The Book of Chosen sewing$\lrcorner$ was Shoulder-Jindong-Baerae-Sup-Dungsol-Kit and in literature of 1960's it was similar to Simii. 5. The lined clothes in $\ulcorner$The Book of Chosen Sewing$\lrcorner$ was sewn to put the inside in the surface, different from the literature of 1960's. 6. In Chosen Dynasty Period the shape of Simii depended on $\ulcorner$Moon Kong Ka Rye$\lrcorner$, but it was changed to similar to Jegory in the latter term. 7. The empty void in Jegory offers usefulness. It relates to Oriental negativism that yin is more useful than yang.

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Analysis on the Contents of Digital-related Studies in the Field of Costume (복식분야 디지털 관련 연구 논문의 내용 분석)

  • Eum, Jungsun;Kim, Yunhee;Yoo, Youngsun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.6
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    • pp.135-148
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    • 2016
  • This study aimed to understand whether or not academic outcomes in digital studies shown in detailed field of costume were generated appropriately according to the development of digital technology by analyzing contents of studies in the digital-related studies, which were conducted with a background of the digital age. First, as a result of frequency of digital-related theses by the age of 'Internet Age(1994-2000)', 'Digital Age(2000-2009)', and 'Smart Life Age(After 2010)', which were classified according to the digital environmental changes, the number of theses increased drastically based on the transition point of each age. Second, representative keywords that appeared in each age included 'digital' and 'Internet' in the Internet Age, and 'digital', 'smart', 'Internet', '3D', and 'wearable' were shown in the 'Digital Age' and 'Smart Life Age'. Third, results of analysis according to the field of costume show that relevant studies were conducted in three fields of marketing/information, clothing construction and fashion design in the Internet Age, whereas the Digital Age produced relevant studies in all fields, and Smart Life Age was characterized by increase in studies in the field of fashion design and clothing construction. Fourth, results of analysis according to the contents of study show that relevant studies in the Internet Age were shown only in two subjects of 'preliminary study and trend of study' and 'studies using technical programs', and 'preliminary study and trend of study' decreased, but relevant studies in other fields of subject increased in the Smart Life Age. As shown above, relevant studies appeared as various subjects in many different detailed fields of costume in costume studies according to the stream of the Smart Life Age, which is growing fast recently, and is considered an inspiring result for development of studies in the field of costume according to the environment of the age.

Thermo-physiological Responses by Presence of Vents and Difference in Clothing Length for Construction Site Working Clothes (통기구 유무와 옷 길이 차이에 따른 건설현장 작업복의 온열생리반응)

  • Kim, Seong-Suk;Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.202-209
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    • 2018
  • This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.

The Standardization of Graded Sizes through Comparing Bodice Patterns by Draping Method and Studied Flat Pattern Method -Using Replica Body-

  • Shim, Kue-Nam
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.399-403
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    • 2004
  • Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.

Classification and Characteristic of Upper Body for the Construction of a College Women's Clothing (여대생의 의복설계를 위한 상반신 체형 분류 및 특성)

  • 심정희;함옥상
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.321-332
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for more functional and more fitting clothing construction. The subjects were college women aged from 18 to 25 in June, 1997. Data were collected by anthropometry and photometry and analyzed by the characteristic of the upper body- The results are as follows: 1. After analyzing direct anthropometric data, 1 have analyzed the data by the characteristic in each somatotype, classified them and I have had 5 groups. Group 1 with middle height and standard type, group 2 with great height and standard type, group 3 with low height and slim type, group 4 with middle height and fat type, and group 5 with low height and a little fat type. 2. After analyzing indirect photometric data, 1 have analyzed them by the characteristic and I have had 4 groups. Group 1 with lean back type, group 2 with sway back type, group 3 with straight type and group 4 with bend forward type. 3. Through the mutual corresponding relation in the 5 groups classified with direct anthropometric measurement and the 4 groups classified with indirect photometric mea- surement, direct-group 1 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 2, comes second to indirect-group 4, and comes third to indirect-group 1. Direct-group 2 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 4, direct-group 3 comes the most corresponding to indirect- group 1, direct-group 4 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 3, and direct-group 5 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 1.

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