• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.48-60
• /
• 1991

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of human developmental growth with empirical anthropometric data for clothing construction. The sample was drawn randomly out of senior high school boys and girls in seoul urban area. The sample size was 424 boys and 301 girls between age 16 and 18. Dependent variables of this study were modified after extraction of common variables from raw data. 42 dependent variables were analyzed by the method of Duncan Test as Multiple Range Test among three age groups and T-Test between male and female of same age groups. The analysis of these data was carried with spss-x package by the computer installed in INHA University. The major findings can be summarized as follows. 1. In Duncan Test, female students between age 16 and 18 were not significantly different in the majority of dependent variables, but girth measurements and weight of 17 and 18 age groups were significantly different from that of 16 age groups. 2. In Duncan Test, male students were significantly different in the majority of the dependent variables, especially 33 variabls from 42 variables, among three age groups. 3. In T-Test, hip girth was only not significantly different between male and female and neck girth of the female students was only significantly larger than that of the male students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
• /
• pp.569-575
• /
• 2005

The objective of this study is to consider the concept of postmodernism and the characteristics concerning the stage of the development, and to investigate the effect of the postmodernism on the clothing. Postmodernism is the result of the late capitalism and its characteristics are the narrative, mixture and deconstruction. First, since it is impossible to express the social culture of various society through one theoretical disclosure, the novel value on the narrative is provided and its characteristics arise. Hence, the society becomes afford to accept the other and provides the novel value to the absolute sub-concept. Second, the recognization and emphasis of the narrative in the post modem society bring about the repulsion as to the strict classification between the high culture and low one established from modernism and the closure between each genre of the art, and this causes to raise the composed characteristics which borrow or mix the style and image of different age and culture. Third, the deconstructive feature arises which eliminates the boundary between the high and low class, the past and future and the destruction and construction. This means not only anther recomposition but also skeptical attitude about it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.281-289
• /
• 1993

Concept of the comfort and fitness becomes a major concern in the basic function of the ready-made clothes. Accordingly a more sophiscated classification of the human morphological characteristics is strongly required for the effective clothing construction. This research was performed to classify and characterize Korean adult males anthropometrically. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. Sampling was carried out by the stratified sampling method. Data were collected by the direct anthropometric measurement. 75 variables in total were applied to classify the bodytypes. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The high factor loading items extracted by factor analysis were based to determine the variables of the cluster analysis for the similar bodytypes respectively. In the part of the trunk, 19 variables from the data were applied to classify the bodytypes of trunk by Ward's minimum variance method. The groups forming a cluster were subdivided into 5 sets by cross-tabulation extracted by the hierarchical culster analysis. Type 3 and 4 in trunk were composed of the majority of 55.6% of the subjects. The Korean adult males had relatively well-balanced bodytypes in trunk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.8
• /
• pp.1253-1261
• /
• 2009

The paper-folding effect of origami signifies a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in a more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, and an absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body. Origami inspiration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores a trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. This study inquires on the influence of origami as a method to create new vestmental space in contemporary fashion. The flat-plane clothes of origami-inspired design are no longer cut to the body and the clothes could be altered by the wearer. The space is introduced in between a three-dimensional dress-body and the body. Origami-inspired design in Japanese avant-garde fashion deconstructs the convention and promotes a symbiosis of body and clothing instead. The shape of the body is completely estranged by three-dimensional sculptures, alluding to the paper folds of origami and the movement of the body that are transmitted to the clothing through fine folding that transform into an unexpected event.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.854-864
• /
• 1997

This study was initiated to develop a uniform design suitable for child inpatients. The experimental hospital inpatient uniform design was developed based on the results of the prior studies. The panel was composed of 5 experienced nurses and 5 clothing specialists. They evaluated the function of the experimental inpatient uniforms developed in this study. The experimental hospital gown design was reformed based on the panel's evaluation.1'hen the child inpatients performed the wear test for the reformed experimental hospital gown. The results of the study are as follows; 1. The child inpatient hospital gown design of the most hospitals were similar to the adult patient's uniform : the V-neckline shirts with full length set-in sleeves. The bottom was full length pull-on pants. The fabric was white cotton with blue hospital logo and stripe print in most cases. 2. The panel's specialty affected the evaluation of the uniform design. The nurses concerned about the durability after washing and ease for medical treatment. The clothing specialists cared about the features related to the clothing construction and ease for physical movement of body. 3. The most preferred hospital inpatient uniform design by the panels was the shirts or one- piece gown with three-quarter length sleeve and overarm seam opening. 4. The researchers developed one-piece dress gown for the children under two years old. Three different size pajamas were developed for children 2∼5 years old,5∼8 years and 8∼12 years old.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.35-52
• /
• 2016

Yeohlee Teng's 'Urban Nomad' concept stresses high mobility and flexibility in 'Clothing-as-shelter' in order to satisfy the needs of urban dwellers. Yeohlee interprets clothing as a portable environment that protects and shelters urban nomads as well as creates space of clothing as intimate architecture. This study examines Nomadism in Yeohlee's designs since 1981 when she received the attention from the fashion critics, by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Nomadism in Yeohlee's work showed the following characterizes. First, 'modular system' deals with the organized dressing system that enables interchanging and layering of separates that function in the fifth season; second, 'organic geometry' describes the architectonic approach to clothing as wearable structure that transforms two dimensional geometry into three dimensional form; third, 'functionalism' refers to the use of technological novel materials, ergonomic clothing construction, and the strategy of using structure as decoration; and fourth, 'reductionism' is the economical approach for realizing Nomadism, which is composed of one-size-fits-all as well as unisex size system and 'zero waste' strategy to maximize use of a piece of cloth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.3
• /
• pp.63-70
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate trend of articles on men's fashion in Korea as seen through clothing-related academic journals from 1990 to 2009. For a total of 478 research papers on men's fashion published in 18 clothing-specialized learned society journals, which are KCI-cited journals or candidates thereof The results were as follows: First, With respect to the number of papers on men's fashion from 1990 to 2009, that of the 2000s rapidly increased to 5.2 times that of the 1990s. Second, The number of each area research was ranked aw follows: social psychology marketing 34.1%(163), clothing construction 32.2%(154), design aesthetics 19.7%(94), beauty 7.7%(37), history of clothing 4.8%(23), textile science 1.5%(7.7). Third, Studies on the aesthetics in men's fashion showed a steady increase from 1995, resulting in the number of papers in the 2000s being 12 times that of the 1990s. And, in the 2000s, the subjects explored in the 1990s, such as feminization of men's clothes, gender images, men's suit, etc. were deepened and expanded.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.103-114
• /
• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.47-56
• /
• 1984

The purpose of this study was to classify somatotype and to investigate the 15 measurements for the clothing construction. The size of sample was 467 females between age 6 and 60. Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) was employed to analyze the 15 measurements by group and somatotype. The results of the study were as follows; 1) All the measurements were significantly different among the groups except the Vertebralis angle. 2) Concerning the upper part of the body, Standard somatotype was found more frequently in group IV. V compared with the other, Turning over somatotype in group I. II, Bending somatotype in group VI. VII. VIII. Concerning the under part of the body Standard somatotype was found more frequently in group IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. compared with the other, Forward-turning over somatotype of the lower help body and Turning over somatotype in group I. II. III. when the upper part of the body was turning over somatotype, the under part of the body was generally Turning over somatotype or Forward-turning over somatotype. When the upper part of the body was Bending somatotype, the under part of the body was commonly Forward somatotype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.51-59
• /
• 1982

Growth is marked by changes in body shape as well as in body size. Increase in size is described quantitatively by increments over time : changes in shape are complex and perhaps are not possible to quantify satisfactorily. Simply to define or describe static body shape quantitatively is difficult, and traditionally simple ratios or indices have been used. In order to find out the body proportion and the body type of the Korean males and females from 6 to 24 years, the material of measurements obtained by the Korean Body-build Investigations (measured in 1979) was calculated and analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. The growth of the trunk part of the body precedes that of the lower part. Comparing the growth rate of male and female, the latter is higher than the former, especially in 12. 2. When a comparison is made between 6, 9, 12, 15 years and grown-ups(20$\~$24 years) with their respective stature's taken as 100, then values of these children are larger in the measurements related with head, acromial and waist height but smaller in lower extremities than these of the grown-ups. 3. Body proportion changes gradually from infant to adult body type indicating different phases each sex.