• Title/Summary/Keyword: Clothing Textile

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A Study on the Formativeness of Shamanism Expressed in Modern Fashion (현대 패션에 표현된 무속의 조형성 연구)

  • Kwon, Jin;Kwon, Myoung-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.6
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate how formativeness of shamanism has expressed and developed in modern fashion. Formative expression of shamanism in modern fashion has expressed in the way of on style, color, material and pattern as follows; Style has made animal and human incorporated by expressing abstract animal on the part or whole of costume and it has reconstructed traditional shaman costume into modern costume. Skin colors of living bodies which exist in nature, such as black, blown, yellow and grey, were used to symbolize spirit and low brightness of colors such as blue, white and black were also used to symbolize hyperspace. Artificial materials which imitate animal figure and genuine materials from animal were used. Various natural materials used in traditional shaman costume were also used. Animal patterns and abstract patterns symbolizing the celestial heaven and lower world, and patterns shown on wall painting and rock painting has appeared. The meaning of shamanism in modern fashion can be identified as interchangeable movement of time and space, a cosmic outlook on the world and ration. Spiritually designed costume has made fashion move to hyperspace in spirit trip. Modern fashion with shamanism has expressed its cosmic outlook on the world or universal wish beyond human's real world by patterns such as bird figure which means the celestial heaven and lower world. Corporation and transition of human and animal were symbolized as shaman hypernatural intercourse with designs expressed in costume using a part of animal or animal's characteristics.

The Characteristics and Change of Colors on Fashion Collections in 1990s

  • Kim, Honey;Kim, Young-In
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.18-31
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine color characteristics and color changes of the fashion collections through 1990s, and to provide the efficient color information for color planning upon fashion themes. For this research, a total of 30,084 colors were collected from Paris, Milan, London, New York Collections in 1990s. Those colors were first measured by the Pantone Textile Color Specifier and COS Color System and spectrophotometer(color eye 580). These measured color values $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$of CIE were converted into H V/C of Munsell System, and 12 tones of PCCS with 5 achromatic colors. The characteristics of collected colors were analyzed in general and by place, season and year. The results of the study are as follows : First, the hues of purple blue, yellow red, red, yellow and the tones of grayish, pale, white, black, dark grayish, dull, light grayish appeared mostly. Yellow was shown quite frequently in spring/summer while purple, purple blue, red and yellow red in fall/winter. White, pale, light, light grayish and light gray were shown more frequently in spring/summer while Black, dark grayish, grayish, dark gray and dark in fall/winter. Second, the characteristics of colors by 4 representative places were similar to the general characteristics of colors in 1990's. Third, There were distributed widely Red, Yellow Red, Yellow in the early 1990s, Green Yellow, Green, Blue Green in the mid of 1990s, and Purple Blue, Purple in the late of 1990s. The distribution range of chromatic colors showed wide in both of the early of 1990s and the mid of 1990s for a while, and achromatic colors of grayish, gray and black appeared mostly in the late of 1900s.

Types of Lotus Patterns in Traditional Korean Textiles (한국 전통 직물의 연꽃무늬 유형 연구)

  • Lee, Eunjin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.1
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    • pp.56-73
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to categorize the lotus patterns of traditional Korean fabrics. This study collected 169 fabrics of Korean lotus flower patterns and then made a list of era, configuration of pattern, type of artifact, findspot and holding institutions. It analyzes the characteristics of 251 kinds of lotus woven on 169 Korean fabrics, 251 kinds of lotus on 169 fabrics divided into Realistic Type, Design Type, and Abstract Type. They consist of 213 kinds of Design Type(84.8%), 21 kinds of Realistic Type(8.4%), and 17 kinds of Abstract Type(6.8%). The largest part of lotus patterns is Design Type. Design Types are subdivided into 14 types. This result contrasted with the conclusion of the research paper about peony patterns in Traditional Korean Textiles. The largest part of peony patterns was Realistic Types. Realistic Types of lotus patterns in Korean textiles are subdivided into 6 types. Korea has more diverse forms and a higher ratio of Realistic Types than China and this can be interpreted to reflect that there is a tendency in Korea to prefer natural patterns. Besides abstract Types are subdivided into 3 types. When the lotus flower patterns of Korea and China are categorized and similar types are compared, there are some unique patterns that appear only in Korea or China. Not only that, similar types display differences in pattern arrangement methods and portrayal among the two countries. If such study results are utilized, they can be grounds for distinguishing the production area of lotus flower textile fabrics when they are newly excavated in the future.

Study on the Removal of Fluorescent Whitening Agent for Paper-mill Wastewater Reuse using the Submerged Membrane Bioreactor(SMBR) with Ozone Oxidation Process (제지폐수 재이용을 위한 침지형 생물막 여과와 오존산화공정(SMBR-Ozone Oxidation Process)에 의한 형광증백제 제거에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Jang-Seung;Shin, Dong-Hun;Ryu, Seung-Han;Lee, Jae-Hun;Ryu, Jae-Young;Shin, Won-Sik;Lee, Seul-Ki;Park, Min-Soo;Lee, Sang Oh
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.51-61
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    • 2018
  • In this study, effluent water was produced through Submerged Membrane Bio-Reactor(SMBR) process, which is a simple system and decomposes organic matter contained in wastewater with biological treatment process and performs solid-liquid separation, Especially, ozone oxidation treatment process is applied to effluent water containing fluorescent whitening agent, which is a trace pollutant which is not removed by biological treatment, and influences the quality of reused water. The concentration of $COD_{Cr}$ in the SMBR was $449.3mg/{\ell}-COD_{Cr}$, and the concentration of permeate water was $100.3mg/{\ell}-COD_{Cr}$. The removal efficiency was about 70.1%. The amount of ozone required for the removal of the fluorescent whitening agent in the permeated water in SMBR was $6.67g-O_3/min$, and the amount of ozone required to remove $COD_{Mn}$ relative to the permeate water was calculated to remove $0.997mg-COD_{Mn}$ for 1mg of $O_3$.

A Study on He Design Process and Knit Structure in Knit Production (니트제품 생산업체의 제품기획 및 니트조직 활용에 관한 연구)

  • Go Sun-Young;Park Myung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.157-165
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

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A study on women's perceived body size for developing virtual fitting model in e-retailing of apparel (인터넷 의류 판매용 가상피팅모델의 개발을 위한 여성의 신체치수 인지에 관한 연구)

  • 천종숙;박진순
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.17-26
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    • 2003
  • With rapid expansion in e-retailing of apparel business, the virtual fitting model is used for comparing fit of the selected garments. The researchers experimented women's perceived body size for developing virtual fitting model. 50 women who were 20's in age were participated in the experiment They were graduate students with clothing & textile major. The results of this study showed that the subjects perceived themselves with fuller figure at waist or hips and with shorter figure at waist height than their actual body site. Many subjects believed that their body sizes were close to the average site. Especially, subjects whose abdomen girth of hip girth was much larger than average thought that they have relatively flat abdomen. It was concluded that not only the user's body measurements but also user's perception on their figure type are needed to be considered in the process of developing virtual fitting model for e-retailing of apparel. It was expected that the virtual fitting model of extraordinary size body would not be accepted by the female consumers even though they are extra large or small size person in reality.

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The effect of consumer characteristics and TTF on the acceptance of fashion mobile commerce (소비자 개인특성과 기술적합성(TTF)이 패션 모바일 커머스 수용에 미치는 영향)

  • Na, Youn-Kue
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.46-63
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    • 2012
  • This research purposed to the conceptual model with integrates the expanded task technology fit theory(TTF) and technical acceptance model(TAM) for the effect of the motivational factor of the consumer characteristics in the used the fashion mobile commerce. To fulfill the study objectives, a total of 432 questionnaires were conducted to the customers with first-hand experience with merchandise in mobile commerce. The judgement sampling method was employed on sample population ages from 20s to 30s over two month period. Based on the results of the above-mentioned path analysis, The result showed that First, the utilization experience was adopted as the have the notes effect in the and information acquisition fit, support fit, quality fit, perceived ease of use. and the innovativeness was adopted as the have the notes effect in the information support fit, perceived trust, perceived ease of use. and the self-efficacy was adopted as the have the notes effect in the and information quality fit, perceived usefulness, perceived ease of use. Second, the information acquisition fit, support fit were adopted as the have the notes effect in the perceived trust, perceived usefulness, perceived ease of use. and the information quality fit was adopted as the have the notes effect in the perceived trust, perceived usefulness. Third, the appeared similar effect which considers from all relationships such as perceived trust, perceived usefulness, perceived ease of use, acceptance attitude and purchase intention.

Eco-Fashion Industry Trend and Creative Fashion Design Technic for Zero-Waste (친환경 패션산업 동향과 쓰레기 발생 감량화(Zero Waste)를 위한 실험적 디자인 사례 연구)

  • Park, Hye-Won
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.29-45
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

Alessandro Michele's Gucci Collection: A Study of the Characteristics of Granny Look in the New-tro Trends (뉴트로 트렌드에 나타난 그래니 룩에 관한 특성 연구 -알레산드로 미켈레의 구찌 컬렉션을 중심으로-)

  • Yun, Seongah;Kan, Hosup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.32-43
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

Conservation Treatment and Material Analysis of Lacquered Head-wear Excavated in Ulsan Dated to Goryeo Dynasty (울산 출토 고려시대 칠사관모의 보존처리 및 재질분석)

  • Park, Hae Jin;Kwon, Young Suk
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.29 no.1
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    • pp.15-24
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    • 2013
  • Chil-sa head-wear excavated in Buksandong of Ulsan is precious relic with historical, cultural, social and artistic values because it shows head-wear shape at the period of Goryeo dynasty with the invaluable worth in the field of Korean traditional costumes. Also, this excavated head-wear provides the empirical information about Goryeo dynasty which has relatively insufficient remains. The purposes of this study are to recover and maintain the original states of the artifacts from various environmental factors and then to preserve the materials from rapid decomposition. As a result, the original shape of the head-wear from Goryeo dynasty can be conserved and through the material and structure analysis it is found out that the head-wear's surface structure is composed of silk(紗) and the ground structure is made by bamboo(竹絲).