• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.13-26
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• 2019

In this study, Western-style first birthday clothing for girls from online shopping malls was explored. Specifically, clothing types, forms, colors, textiles, prints/patterns, and trimmings were examined. Using the keyword dol bok (meaning "first birthday clothing") and the search engines Naver and Daum, online shopping malls that sell or rent Western-style first birthday clothing for girls were found. From 15 online shopping malls, 317 dresses, 76 outers, and 69 bonnets were analyzed. The one-piece dress was the main item of Western-style first birthday clothing for girls. Most first birthday dresses were white or ivory in terms of color; other common features were the bell silhouette, a high waistline, a midi- or knee-length skirt with multiple layers, and bow trimming. The upper bodices of dresses featured round necklines without collars and sleeves, and the main textiles used for dresses were satin, lace, organza, and tulle. Two main types of outers were jackets and capes. Most outers were white or ivory and waist-length or shorter, with elbow-length or longer sleeves. Outers were typically made of fur, satin, and lace. Most bonnets were also white or ivory in color, made of satin and lace, and decorated with ribbon ties and frills/ruffles. Because a precedent study indicates that a monochromatic color scheme was the least favorite and that consumers want a proper fit and length-adjustable design, conclusions of this study point to the need for color diversification; color combinations for two-piece dresses, outers, and accessories; and lacing or shoulder snaps instead of zippers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.34-44
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to provide effective design strategy and distinguish productions for the consumer's emotion satisfaction by analyzing formative properties of fashion sensibility and emotion. 54 photos of contemporary costume have been selected which represented the Izard' DES. The questionnaire consisted of bi-polar 25 pairs adjective scale of fashion sensibility and the 18 noun scale of emotion was distributed to 970 male and female living in Pusan area. The data were analyzed by GLM using the statistic SPSS package. The major findings of this research were as follows. 1. In the clothing formative properties following fashion sensibilities, aestheticism shows significant differences in the silhouette and texture, maturity in the silhouette and color, character in the texture and decoration and feminity in the pattern and color. 2. In the clothing formative properties following emotions, negative emotion shows significant differences in the pattern and silhouette, distressㆍfear in the silhouette and pattern, arousal in the texture and color, shame in the color and texture and enjoyment in the silhouette and pattern. 3. In the fashion sensibility and emotion following clothing formative properties, each formative property shows differences in fashion sensibility and emotion. This study result will be utilized in the clothing design development in special usage like theatrical costume, discriminated display and advertisement stratge.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.868-876
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• 2005

Silk fabrics were dyed with yellow natural materials. Gardenia, turmeric, amur cork tree, safflower, Japanese pagoda tree, and onion were used as natural materials. Color image of natural dyed silk fabrics was classified by 4 factors(Cheerfulness, Comfortness, Pastrol, Revealation). Cheerfulness factor affected significantly with color image. Amur cork tree or turmeric dyed fabrics were shown as light and cute, safflower or gardenia dyed fabric shown as comfort, and onion dyed fabrics shown as mature and simple. Color image with specialty was significant difference in Preference and Revelation factor. Preference was appeared as amur cork tree>turmeric>gardenia>safflower>Japanese pagoda tree>onion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.9-17
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• 2001

The purposes of the study are to find out the effect of clothing colors on perception of stimulus ages, occupations and images using stereotyping and color vision theories. The research method is a qualitative study and materials developed for the study are a set of stimuli and open-ended responses. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students in Taejoen city, Chungbuk province. The data is analyze using content analysis, supplementary frequency and χ²analysis. The results are as follows : 1) The colors in Korean traditional costumes affected on the wearer's age perception : The red ensemble give the wearer the youngest look while the gray give the oldest look. 2) Mono-color ensemble wearers tend to give older look than bi-color ensemble wearers. 3) The chima colors and the jogori colors have similar impact on the wearer's age perception. 4) On image perception the jogori colors have more impact than the chima colors. 5) The colors in Korean traditional costumes are the clues to estimate the wearer's occupation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.305-323
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• 1996

The purpose of this sty is to forecast the tendency of clothing colors, to provide materials useful for making the color plan for a better costume, and suggest new information in the apparel industry. To achieve these purposes, this study was carried out by suggesting vogue colors of recent apparel, along with the 20 standard colors of Muncell to 350 men and women in their 20s residing in Taegu.. We analysed and compared their preferred colors in suits vidual factor ;age, sex, education ,skin color, and body shape, and additionally classifying their interest in clothing colors, cause for color selection , degree of interest in color of clothes, color satisfaction of apparel market, and color combination of clothing, color satisfaction of apparel market, and color combination of clothing. We compared these elements according to their age, sex, and education. The results of this study is summarized as follows; 1. It was shown that both men and women in their 20s preferred warm colors the first colors mentioned being the most popular ; Pastels, Red, Blue and Black. They disliked dark and sordid colros in the order of Mauve, Khaki and Red. They preferred wearing Pastels and Yellow in the Spring, White, Blue, and Pastels were the favorites for summer, Beige in autumn, and black, Gray, and Beige in winter. The repugnated colors they chose two wear were Black, Red, Mauve, Khaki in spring and summer. Mauve, Red, Yellow were favorites for autumn, and Blue·White, Yellow·Green, and Pastels in winter. 2. The preferred colors for T-shirts were Yellow, Pastels, White in spring. White and Pastels were summer favorites, Beige an Red for autumn, and Black, Red, Beige in Winter. As for suits, the preferred colors in spring were in the order of Pastels, Beige and Yellow. The preferred colors of upper garments in summer were in the order of White and pastels. for lower summer garments Pastels, White and Blue were favorites. In autumn, Beige was shown to be highly preferred, and in winter, the order of preferred colors was Black, Gray and Beige. 3. On of those individual factors showing the greatest difference was sex. 4. Those factors having the greatest impact on the selection of clothing color were the season and their preference color. 5. The in vogue color of men in their 20s was at a higher level than hat of women. The groups that had an upper college level education showed a significant difference in their choices thant hose who were highschool graduates and technical college student and graduates. The consideration of inteterest in color of clothes, holding clothes during new purchasing, body shape and skin color was higher for women than men. In buying and wearing accessaries, women tend to take into consideration the harmony with the garment, and there was shown a significant difference between highschool graduates and the groups above the level of college education.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.508-517
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• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.381-392
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• 1991

The purpose of this is to investigate the color of Art Deco Fashion in Paris. (1920-1930) Through the age of Art Deco style, the enormous modern cities were built up and numerous life-constructions were designed conspiciously in Paris. Under this situation, the usage of the 'color' became very important element of design area and also it bestowed new form upon the modern design. The black beauty of Art Deco style was the outcomes of cubism, black-arts, and pragmatism. And the black beauty was regarded as the proper color to represent simplicity. Simplicity was the best way to express Art Deco style. The color and light of metal were used adequately to express a geometrical and streamline form; it was raised as a new beauty in this period. The primary colors were used to recognize the simplified forms effectively. New pastel colors, which signified differently with Art Nouveau were born centering around the Youth Culture like a summer resort and a sun bath. Also they expressed neon signs and atmosphere of beach by means of the tropical colors. At last the color of Art Deco style opened the new age. And it was started to use the various colors in design field from at this time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.