• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.32 no.5
• /
• pp.619-635
• /
• 2024

The traditional style of Chinese women's dress was formed during the Zhou Dynasty (周), further developed during the Qin Dynasty (秦漢), and reached its peak during the Tang Dynasty (唐宋). Additionally, the garment classification system was solidified during the Ming Dynasty (明). This study focuses on the patterns and 3D reconstruction of the Wave Ju garment (曲裾深衣), a traditional Chinese aristocratic women's garment representative of the Han Dynasty period. This study analyzed the style, dimensions, patterns, colors, and fabrics of the Wave Ju garment based on literature studies and excavated archival materials. Moreover, its shape, dimensions, and patterns were reconstructed using a CLO 3D program. This process aimed to recreate the original appearance of the traditional clothing as much as possible, and data on aspects such as pressure and deformation force were compared and analyzed to comprehensively evaluate its functionality and the effects of wear. The goal of this study is to contribute to the protection and legacy of traditional Chinese women's clothing through historical documentation, clothing analysis, and 3D reconstruction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.107-122
• /
• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.251-260
• /
• 2012

Nowadays, global wedding dress companies are interested in the Chinese wedding market because of expectations in consumption patterns of the post 80's generation. Therefore, wedding behavior, selection criteria for wedding dresses, and favored image by segmented groups targeting 20's to 30's Chinese women were studied to help the Korean wedding dress industry to establish their business in China. The survey was conducted in Shanghai city and three neighboring cities-Wuxi, Zhengziang, and Hangzhou-, and the primary data were analyzed using the SPSS program. As results, Chinese women thought that the wedding ceremony should be elegant and dignified, and they wanted to choose their favorite style rather than a recommended style. The criteria of selection were classified into four factors. Overall image and well fitting with their face and body were the most important factors in the selection of wedding dress. The most favored image was unique/novel image. Several favored images for their wedding dress were significantly different by occasion (ceremony day and photo shoot day) and education level. People of higher education level preferred more luxurious and classic image during the ceremony, and a classic and gorgeous image on the photo shoot day. A white dress and a colored dress for weddings were favored more than the Chinese traditional dress on both occasions. There was also a significant difference between general consumers and the wedding business employees in the quantity of wanted wedding dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.891-909
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.5
• /
• pp.154-167
• /
• 2014

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and donning practices of traditional dress among Chinese marriage immigrant women. Quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Chinese multicultural families. Participants were 291 married women in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings are as follows: First, positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes and Qipao transmission attitudes. The level of Qipao transmission attitudes was higher than Hanbok acceptance attitudes especially in the part of knowledge. Han Chinese showed stronger Qipao transmission attitudes than Korean Chinese. Immigrants without Korean nationality had stronger Qipao transmission attitudes. Higher education group and higher income group showed higher level both on Hanbok acceptance attitudes and Qipao transmission attitudes. Second, more than 50% of Chinese marriage immigrant women wore Hanbok once or twice per a year. On the other hand, only 24% of them wore Qipao. This result shows that there exists a gap in the Qipao transmission attitudes and donning practices. 44% of women wore both Hanbok and Qipao in their own wedding ceremony, 32% wore only Hanbok, and 19% wore only Qipao. 64% of women had an experience of wearing Hanbok on special days such as traditional holidays or family affairs, whereas only 29% had worn Qipao.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.661-680
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.107-118
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to be data and to help understanding of pattern of Korean, Chinese and Japanese traditional dress. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis of case studies about actual works. The summary of this study's results is like followings. First, standard of Pattern are nature, mam-made in motif object, Naturalistic, Geometric, Stylized, Abstract in motif express, Order, Disorder in pattern express. Second, a point of sameness of motif object in traditional dress of three nations were that nature and letter abstractive of mam-made is a lot. but motif of Japan was used in daily life motif of mam-made which was not in Korea and China Third, commonly, motif expression of three nations were developed Naturalistic, Stylized. but in Naturalistic, Korea was simple, plane, China was three-dimensional, Japan was expressed super realism. Fourth, as formative aesthetic of Pattern, Korea is natural, plane, simple and symbolic, China is gorgeous, three-dimensional, immaculacy, filling and symbolic, Japan is delicate, complicated, decoration and symbolic.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.71-82
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.167-180
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.