• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.84-85
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• 2001

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2001년도 International Costume Culture Conference
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• pp.70-70
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• 2001

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.621-631
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• 1997

This study aims to analyze Sungkyunkwan Students' uniform during Chosen dynasty through literature and paintings. Confucian scholar's coshime of Chosen dynasty was said to imitate that of Chinese counterpart's. The first Confucian scholars costume, which was officially instituded during King Taeiong's reign, was a Yugon worn on the head and a Chongkeum (blue collar). But Chinese Gukjagam students'uniform in the early Ming years was a Nansam and later became a blue Wonryong which reflected the changes in the Ming Period. Though Chosun's Chongkeum was the official Confucian scholar's costume on record, it was not worn widely. Corfucian scholars rather wore a red Jikryong or a white coat up to the mid-Chosun dynasty, and in the late Chosen period, a black Danryong or a red Danryong were more popular for Confucian scholars. Because the official Confucian scholar's uniform Chongkeum was not used widely and other costumes were worn more popularly, various attempts had been made to adopt the Nansam, like that of Ming's, as the official Costume scholar's uniform from King Snio to King Youngio. Finally, King Youngjo decided to adopt the Nansam as the official costume for those who passed the civil service examination, ending the controversies concerning an official costume. We cannot find the Nansam and the Aengsam of the late Chosen period from the paintings either. This conirms that Aengsam was the costume which originated from the late Chosun period. The term "Chongkeum" was used either to imply "Confucian scholar' or to indicate various 'Confucian scholar's costume rather than its original meaning of blue collar.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2015

Chi-pao is a kind of traditional clothes; it is regarded as a national costume, playing an irreplaceable role in the Chinese history. As China developed, the strict requirements on dresses did as well. History is a double-sided mirror,; we can know the past and we can find the direction ifor future development. when it comes to reform and openness, China imports foreign culture and exports domestic culture as well. This essay uses the history of Chi-pao as the background, consults the reference to analyse the brand of Chinese domestic Chi-pao characteristics, summarize the fashionable trend. Recently, Chi-pao is worn in many kinds of important occasions such as foreign affairs, public performances and so on. The purpose of this essay is to analyze the current situation of Chi-pao, make Chi-pao more international, and show the Chinese history to the world.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.965-978
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• 2014

To determine the parameters to be considered when designing lower-body apparel, we analyzed the lower-body figures of adult women in their early 20s from Shanghai, China, using 3-dimensional whole body scanner. Thirty-nine lower-body-related measurements were used to analyze the figures of 210 Chinese women. Obesity and height of the lower body, length from waist to crotch, shape of abdomen, and leg bone length were analyzed. Factor analysis was performed and the results were classified into three clusters. The first cluster describes the obesity of the lower body, the second denotes small hip measurement, and the third describes slim and long legs. This is the first study to quantify figure analysis of the lower body of Chinese women using 3-dimensional body measurements. The findings of this study will provide concrete information regarding crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, waist slope, etc., for designing trouser patterns for Chinese adult women.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.105-118
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• 1995

Chinese shroud through literature are as follows. 1. Taetae, SimeI, P'oo, Hansam, Ko, Mal, Nukpaek , Kwatu, Ch'ungi, Pokkn, Myokmok, Ri, Aksu, Mo and m were used the most in China. 2. The cloths of Chinese shroud were p'o, Paek , Kyon and Kum. The colors of the Chinese shroud were Hyon, Hun and white. 3. The size of the Chinese shroud is as follows . The size of the Ch'ungi was similar to the size of jujube kernel, the length of Myokmok was one Chk two Chn or one Chk two Chn or one Chk five Chn, the length of Aksu was one Chjk two Chn and it's width was five Chn. The chil of Mo reached the hands and the length of Swae was three Chk and the length of m was five Chn. 4. In Chinese shroud, , cotton was put in P'oo. Aksu was tide by the strings at two corners. Myokmok was tied by the strings of four corners. The tip of the m was divided and Mo warpped the whole body. 5. The clothes of Soryom was nineteen Ch'ing. The clothes of Taeryom in Kum were one hundred Ch'ing in the Chinese. The impliment of Soryon were Kum, kyo, SangeI, SaneI, Ch'im , Yok and Kyon in the Chinese shroud. In the case of the implement of TAeryom, the chinese shroud had Kum , Kyo, SangeI, Sane, Ch'im and Yok.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.117-118
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• 1995

Chinese shroud through literatures are as follows. 1. Taetae, Sime i, P'oo, Hansam, Ko, Mal, Nukpaek, Kwatu, Cu'ungi, Pokk n, Myokmok, Ri, Aksu, Mo and m were used the most in China. 2. The cloths of Chinese shroud were p'o, Paek, Kyon and Kum. The colors of the Chinese shroud were Hyon, Hun and white. 3. The size of the Chinese shroud is as follows. The size of the Ch'ungi was similar to the size of jujube kernel, the length of Myokmok was one Ch' k two Ch'on or one Ch' k five Ch'on, the length of Aksu was one Ch' k two Ch'on and it's width was five Ch'on. The chil of Mo reached the hands and the length of Swae was three Ch' k and the length of m was five Ch'on. 4. In Chinese shroud, cotton was put in P'oo, Aksu was tide by the strings at two corners. Myokmok was tied by the strings of four corners. The tip of the m was divided and Mo wrapped the whole body. 5. The clothes of Soryom was nineteen Ch'ing. The clothes of Taeryom in Kun were one hundred Ch'ing in the Chinese. The impliment of Soryom were Kum, Kyo, Sange i, Sane i, Ch'im, Yok and Kyon in the Chinese shroud. In the case of the implement of Taeryom, the chinese shroud had Kum, Kyo, Sange i, Sane i, Ch'im and Yok.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.326-336
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to survey the wearing and purchasing situation related to brassieres between Korean and Chinese women and to analyze the differences among them. This study utilized a survey targeting 397 women in their 20's in Korea and China. The results were as follows: First, Korean women considered that their breasts are conical in shape, whereas Chinese women considered their breasts to have a flat shape. With regard to breast size, those of Chinese women are larger than those of Korean women. Moreover, Chinese women expressed a high rate of dissatisfaction with their breasts. Second, regarding the wearing condition of brassieres, while Korean women expected their brassiere to converge their breasts to the center, Chinese women expected their brassiere to support the breasts. It was found that many of them were dissatisfied with the shoulder straps and the center front wire. Third, in the results pertaining to the purchasing brassieres, although both Korean and Chinese Women mainly visited brand name stores to buy brassieres, compared with Chinese women, Korean women prefer to shop at home to buy the brassieres. In addition, they considered the compensation effect, size, activity, fabric and fit as the most important selection criteria when purchasing a brassiere.