• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.290-303
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• 2010

In this research, I compared and analyzed the 'factors of style' that expresses and visualizes the 'characteristics of characters' and the characters from three movies each that was filmed with Kang Ho Song and Keong Ku Seol who acted in many movies both. As the result, for the factors for actors' makeup design, since they have limited choices of textures, colors, and the range of changes, changing the tone of skin to light to dark implied the images of characteristics. Somewhat dark skin tone that was like tanned skin expressed the life style of the character who works for an active profession not for an intellectual position. For the factors of hair style, medium sized wavy hair that goes straight down forehead expressed the character's familiar and informal personality while short cut sized all back style hair expressed confidence, sociality, and logical personality of the character. The actors' costume was important to express the characteristics of characters such as changes of their mind, especially the costumes delivered symbolic meanings of the role of their social class, profession, and their financial state. In addition, there were common factors to create and design a character in terms of the changes of the actors' body shape; when the actor acted the character who has conflicts inside and sarcastic personality, they lost weight on purpose while they gained weight and made a barrel shaped body to act the character who is positive in every occasion and does not realize the real world or who is greed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.510-524
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• 2007

There is something common between the Korean female Kukkuk and the Japanese Takarazuka Revue in that actors are all females and love is the main theme. Some of the females should play men's roles, so they are described as ideal men and are more manly than real men, and female audiences are attracted by them. It is hard for actresses to play men's roles-they have to stretch open their shoulders, walk with long steps and produce a deep voice. They put on a makeup a little exaggeratedly to perfectly disguise themselves as men and express strong images-some red tone makeup on their face, thick eyebrows with their ends upward, thick eye lines to make eyes seem bigger and stronger, and thick side whiskers. On the contrary, a makeup for female characters is softer to highlight femininity with thin penciled hair parted and braided on the sides of the face. The Takarazuka Revue's students are divided into male characters and female ones from the regular course of music schools, and they select their roles in consideration of their height and range of voice, mainly based on their wish. In case of male characters, they need a long career and verification of ability to be the best. Females playing men's roles and showing their manliness are violation of a social custom standardizing the character of males and females and are the reverse of roles expected by a society or a culture. A world experienced by these plays is a kind of revolt breaking the taboo of the patriarchal system.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제22권
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• pp.223-277
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• 2011

Tan Yuanjie(譚元杰) of CHINA COSTUME ART OF PEKING OPERA("中國京劇服裝圖譜") is 'Foreword' attention from the bar 'Formalism'. A note is makeup system from ever performances here, 'what kind of adaptation must be a corresponding type of costume should be worn.' This stance to 'type of person's identity and faced the scene correlated' with the actual performance tradition plays out is going and, while here the rules to capture the opera's on the character of 'identity and the circumstances under clothing' is defined. This position discussed previously 'Formalism' in line with the will he perform, and looks to meet the elements of production. This basic stance is clean up, while 'Old Beijing Opera costumes costumes taxonomy largely' literary costume' and 'militant outfit' into two groups divided over throughout steamroll surgery, because surely need to have a more systematic classification. The classification system was established as 'Part 1. Mang, Part 2. Pi, Part 3. Xi, Part 4. Kao, Part 5. YI'. In addition to these classification systems, as well as the aforementioned 'object theory' Given the symbolic significance of the capacity to keep in mind is necessary. Costumes conduct, character, situation, atmosphere and so the transport of charged symbols here, a target symbol of the system is the projection of water. This costume is detrimental to the mall for the positionsay, but I kept in mind damwongeolyi internationalization of Chinese culture. when you see the view from the perspective of semiotic systems for the sign, that the theater is necessary to complement. In this paper, 'Yi(衣)' costume on the corresponding point of the target compared to the China Culture Department of Theatre and Folklore methodology ran off and sprinting was to lay the groundwork for research.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.114-123
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the visual elements for effectively conveying the make-up method of the Korean history. We will do basic research on language visualization through visual poetry by using a make-up method as a visual expression element. Our research methods consisted of a related literature research, an internet search, and case study methods. The make-up methods of Korean classical make-up through visual poetry consisted of a through literature review. First, make-up methods, cosmetics, jewelry, and hair styles are shown in the classic make-up style of each age. Second, classical make-up visual poetry shows the identity, gender, and character depictions. Third, there were many visual metaphors about the hair types, figures, and hair among the classical make-up methods of each age. I think that this topic is worth researching as an appropriate medium to increase attractiveness. This research is with visual expression elements of the Korea make-up method. This study analyzed the Korean traditional make-up method that expresses and reinterprets visual metaphors. The results of this study can be applied for basic research.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제16권7호
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• pp.609-621
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• 2016

프레임 가득 배우의 얼굴을 확대하여 미세한 표정의 떨림조차 놓치지 않고 정확하게 포착하는 클로즈업은 살아있는 배우가 연기를 하는 무대 위 보다 훨씬 더 사실적으로 배우의 연기를 표현한다. 클로즈업은 관객의 시선을 사로잡을 수 있는 나름의 이미지와 의미의 효과들을 생산하며, 배우의 얼굴이 최소한의 거리에서 관객과 직접적인 소통을 하는 듯한 심리적 현상을 불러일으키기 때문이다. 이에 본 연구는 클로즈업의 촬영 효과와 연기 효과를 연구하고, 그에 따른 연기 훈련의 필요성을 제언하기 위해 영화 <사도>(2015)를 분석해보았다. 영화 <사도>는 송강호가 인물 설정의 사실성을 높이기 위해 얼굴의 특수 분장으로 실제 나이보다 20년 이상 많은 나이를 연기했고, 이러한 얼굴과, 제스처, 클로즈업 된 소품들이 극중 인물의 성격과 영화의 감정을 표현함에 있어 어떠한 연기력을 충분히 공유하며, 영화연기의 핵심이 되는 다양한 언어적, 시각적, 정서적 의미의 효과들을 만들어내고 있다는 점에서 분석의 대상으로 삼았다. 본 연구를 통해 배우들이 클로즈업의 효과와 영화연기의 핵심을 알고, 카메라 앞에서 효과적인 표현 방법을 찾는데 조금이나마 도움이 되었으면 하는 바람이다.

• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
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• 제13권7호
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• pp.99-118
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• 2019

본 연구는 1958년부터 2018년까지 60년간 아모레퍼시픽이 발간해온 뷰티매거진 <향장>에 실린 718편의 화장품광고에 나타난 언어메시지를 내용분석하였다. 즉 화장품광고의 언어메시지에 표현된 구매정보, 설득적 표현, 어휘종류(어종)가 시대별, 제품군 별로 어떻게 표현되었는지를 살펴봄으로써 실무적으로는 화장품광고의 전략적 표현에 대한 고찰과 접근방법을 모색하고 학술적으로는 향후 화장품광고의 연구 방향을 제시하고자 하였다. 연구결과는 첫째, 화장품광고의 구매정보는 기본적으로 실속구매나 개인만족 정보를 전달하고 있지만, 최근으로 올수록 브랜드충성 정보의 비중이 높아졌다. 메이크업제품의 경우 계절, 패션 트렌드 등을 강조하는 유행지향의 비중이 높았으나, 2010년대 이후부터는 브랜드충성 구매정보의 비중이 늘었다. 화장품의 글로벌 브랜드 전략이 광고에 적극 반영된 결과로 보인다. 둘째, 설득적 표현은 헤드라인과 바디카피가 다른 양상을 보였다. 먼저 헤드라인은 이미지형성중심 표현이 주로 사용되었다. 구체적으로는, 사용장면이미지 표현이 전반적으로 높게 나타난 가운데 1990년대 이전까지는 사용자이미지 표현이 높았고 최근으로 올수록 상표이미지 표현이 높게 나타났다. 바디카피는 정보전달중심 표현이 주로 사용되었는데, 그 중에서도 보편적 정보와 차별적 정보가 가장 많이 사용되었다. 따라서 화장품광고의 언어메시지는 소구방법을 단순히 이성소구와 감성소구로 나누기보다는 브랜드별로 확립된 이미지를 어떤 정보로 구체화할 것인지를 파악하는 것이 중요하다. 셋째, 어휘종류(어종)는 브랜드네임과 헤드카피로 나누어 살펴보았는데, 브랜드네임은 외래어가, 헤드카피는 한자어의 사용이 가장 높게 나타났다. 단, 1970~80년대에는 고유어 브랜드네임이 일시적으로 많이 나타났는데, 이는 이 시기에 고유어 상표를 권장하는 정부정책이 반영된 결과로 해석된다. 또한 메이크업제품에서는 외래어가, 남성제품에서는 한자어의 사용빈도가 상대적으로 높게 나타났는데, 이는 메이크업 제품의 경우 색상이나 계절을 외래어로 표현하는 경향이 높고, 남성제품은 소비자들의 한자어에 대한 권위나 신뢰의 추구성향이 언어메시지 표현에 반영된 것으로 풀이된다.