• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.398-411
• /
• 2001

Funeral rites relate to the last ceremonies involving the process of human beings moving from this world to the other world, becoming part of a life which remarkably reflects the world after death. They can be said to be the best culture created by the conception of death. The ceremonies of mourning, or ubiquitius folk phenomena of all the ages from the ancient times to modern times, represent the mass belief of each nation in spiritual worlds as well as the feelings of individuals facing death. In so far as their methods are concerned, the ceremonies vary in accordance with ages, nations, regions and culture. The practices of today\`s funeral rites conducted in the West have been formed and changed throughout its long history. Now that the ceremonies are a combination of complicated cultures, they serve as an important tool for inquiring into the spiritual life of the people of an age in question and the pictures of the society concerned. Therefore this paper is designed to look into the culture of shrouds showing respect for the dead in the West. With the view of examining death, and grave clothes for them, but also with the spiritual culture of human beings in relation to death represented in their pictures. I resort to literature and materials related to the shrouds of the dead which appeared in a period from the Medieval Age to the 19th century.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.32-49
• /
• 2008

The Torajan people who started to receive increased attention from the 1990 are one of the many ethnic groups of Indonesia. This paper intends to examine Torajan Ceremonies practied today in the modern world, driven by the Torajan people's age-old perspective of life and death (and the world after) that comes from their background on traditional lifestyle and (animated) folk religion/belief. It focuses on the ceremonial Dances, which is one of the most important element in Torajan Ceremonies, and gain deeper insight through its costumes and ornaments which traditionally revealed the social status of hosts and performers. In ceremony, the most important division is the classification of ritual into Aluk rampe matallo(life facing ritual ) and Aluk rampe matampu? death ritual). So Traditional Toraja dances may be classified into two genres: life related ritual dances and death ritual dances. Especially the funeral ceremonies in Toraja has been rather more famous on its spectacle aspect to outsiders however its relationships to the broader theme of Torajan Ceremonies and ceremonial dances are very less known and sources on this topic are also very scarce. Fortunately, I was able to witness one of such an ritual event. I did see one kind of the funeral rituals which is the most dramatic and symbolically rich performances in Toraja. Here, a brief account of its will highlight some dimension of ceremony, personfood, and potency in Torajan thought and action.

• Journal of North-East Asian Cultures
• /
• v.30
• /
• pp.123-143
• /
• 2012

in the late 14th century, korean confucian literati, sinjinsadaebe(新進士大夫), tried to reform korean society in the base of neo confucianism. after Joseon Founding, korean confucian literati modified a lot of confucian ceremonies in order to substitute buddhist ceremonies. at first, they titled confucian ceremonies as "gyu sik(regulation manuals)", "Eui mun(ceremonial manuals)", and "Eui je(ceremonial manuals)". but in the end, they titled confucian ceremonies as "Eui gwe(Ritual Protocol Manuals)". they also titled the reports on national occasions as "Eui gwe(Ritual Protocol Manuals)". among the confucian reforms, the most important reforms were auspicious ceremony. korean confucian literati tried to make perfect confucian auspicious ceremony. the first national achievement by confucian reformers was the five national rituals in annals of king sejong. and the second national achievement by confucian reformers was the five national rituals. the royal cart regulated in the five national rituals in annals of king sejong was cart decorated by ivory. but the royal cart regulated in the five national rituals was the sedan with cover. the reason of the change of royal cart were king sejo's political showmanship and diplomatic pretext toward ming(明) china. after the publishment of the five national rituals, the royal cart was represented by the sedan with cover.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.5
• /
• pp.123-138
• /
• 2011

This study examined how Chipogwan[緇布冠] with such a long history has been changed in China and Korea. With regard to the name, material, use and form of Chipogwan, the results of this study is summarized as follows. Chipogwan was mentioned continuously in ancient books of ceremonies and literature from the Tang dynasty [唐代], but from the Song dynasty [宋代] new name Chigwan [緇冠: a black hat] appeared besides Chipogwan. The two names were transmitted to Joseon dynasty [朝鮮] and used together until the mid Joseon dynasty, but from the 18th-19th centuries, Chipogwan was adopted according to ancient ceremonies and this name has been used continuously until today. The change of the name reflects the change of the material. Ancient Chipogwan was made of hemp [布] but when the term Chigwan appeared in the Song dynasty it was made of paper and Sa [紗: a 2-end simple gauze]. As other materials were added to hemp, po (布) was omitted from Chipogwan. As to the use of Chipogwan, it was a coronet used in purification ceremonies [齋冠] in ancient times. Then, it was used as Chogagwan [初加冠: a first hat putting on] in coming-of-age ceremonies [冠禮] from Zhou dynasty (周). During the Song and Joseon dynasty, Chipogwan was used in coming-of-age ceremonies as well as in daily life. As to the form, Chipogwan in ancient books of rites and the Song dynasty was a small coronet covering the topknot. In the Joseon dynasty, the form of Song dynasty was followed until the mid period, and then after the mid $18^{th}$ century, another form was proposed according ancient books of rites and an independent form of ceremonial coronet appeared that covered the entire head rather than covering only the topknot.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.29-42
• /
• 1997

Our ancestors had done their best for the moral training and home management, further more for the governing a country through observing the decorums. The 4 main decorums, i. e. the Coming-of-Age Ceremony, Wedding Ceremony, Funeral Rites and the Ancestor worship Ceremony during the Chosun Dynasty had guided well our ancestors'life harmoiously. The Wedding Ceremonies of them was one of the most happy events in their lives meaningful of the filial piety and the union of two families. The Wedding ceremonies consist of the 6 etiquetes, i. e., Eui-Hon (matchmaking), N뮤-Chae (present), Nab-Pye(bride's presents to her parents-in-law), Chung-Gi(ask the other part about an auspicious day), Moon-Myung(choice of an auspicious day), Chin-Young(take and meet a bride) in order of sequence. Chin-Young consists of Cho-Hon, Sa-Dang-Go-Woo, Sung-Bok, Cho-Rye, Boo-Myung-Ji & Mo-Song, Jun-An-Rye, Hab-Geun-Rye, Sin-Bang-Chi-Reu-Gi, Hyun-Goo-Rye, Myo-Hyun and Jae-Haeng ete, considerably complicated programs in order.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.89-100
• /
• 2018

The stylobate for expanding the external stage area was the most frequently installed installment out of the installments installed for royal court ceremonies. The stylobate was installed for various ceremonies such as funeral rites, ancestral rites, customary formalities, state examination, feasts for celebrating a honored guest of the court, queen's silkworm cultivating ceremony, heir appointment, the presentation of honorary titles for the king or queen in honor of their merits, and entertainment of foreign dignitaries. The exact period stylobates came to be used for the play stage. The stylobate consists of the 紅座板, 屯太木, 竹欄間, 足木, and the 層橋. Depending on the 足木, the substructure of the stylobate, the stylobate could be divided into the 長足木, 中足木, 短足木, 平足木 type. The detail structure of the stylobate changed in form from the jokmok and duntaemok that appeared until the time of King Seonjo, into the 長屯太木, 短屯太木, and the 短短屯太木 during the time of King Heonjong. With the introduction of the 中足木, materials began to become more segmented and the structure stronger. According to existing records, while the height of the stylobate was not significantly high prior to King Seonjo's reign, the 十四層雲橋 and the 十三層層橋 introduced during the time of Emperor Gojong was designed to reflect his rank in external ceremonies while the eight story step bridge was exhibited in internal ceremonies to reflect the rank of Queen Mother Sinjeong. From here, we can deduce that the fourteen and thirteen story cloud bridges representing the king was of a higher grade than the eight story step bridge which represented the queen mother. Finishing by adding boards to the lower part of the stylobates began to appear in the time of King Seonjo. During King Heonjong's reign, the lower finish became gentrified with a thin board called 修粧板, and yeomupan 廉隅板 for decorating the edges of the stylobates were installed. Such style of finishing the lower part of the stylobate with boards mostly appeared in elaborate feasts 進饌 and celebrations 進宴 within the royal court 內宴. The stylobates appeared to have served not only practical purposes such as expanding the stage area, but also as installments which realize the authority and prestige of the royal crown. They were installed according to the purpose of the ceremony and the rank of the participant. In short, stylobates became established during King Seonjo's reign, became segmented and gentrified during King Heonjong's reign, and began to take height variations during Emperor Gojong's reign to reflect the rank and authority of the king and queen mother. As such, it can be considered another characteristic of Joseon Dynasty architecture.

• Journal of Family Resource Management and Policy Review
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.87-108
• /
• 2010

This study will attempt to show how marriage ceremonies in Korea have reflected marriage custom influences from science and industrialization the study focuses on changes in traditional features. As a result of science and industrialization, the social patterns of Korean marriages have considerably changed, due to the impact of western values. There are three stages of the Korean marriage ceremony: before the ceremony (Sun-rye), the ceremony (Bon-rye) and after the ceremony (Hu-rye). The research examined how these marriage customs were influenced by science and industrialization. The instruments were 750 questionnaires, analyzed through data processing and personal interviews with 25 married women. The data were analyzed by making use of the SPSS program using frequency analysis and $x^2$-test. The results suggested that, since 1960, Korean marriage ceremonies mainly conformed to the marriage customs of traditional society. Since 1970, traditional customs of the before the ceremony (Sun-rye) process have been, in large part, eliminated. The ceremony (Bon-rye) process has been changed to western style, and the after the ceremony (Hu-rye) process has been altered to some degree.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.2
• /
• pp.18-28
• /
• 2009

Korea Ancient Gagye in Clothing history has the following meanings with ceremonial, social, and aesthetic aspects, related to symbolism of its formality and procedures, flexibility about social aspects, and clothing beauty. First, Gagye must be worn in formal ceremonies with its clothes. Different Gagye in different time and place means the symbolism of its formality and ceremonies. Gagye played a big role as a means to carry out national ceremonies In diplomatic relationship with China. Second, Korea Ancient Gagye had been worn in every class irrespective of social status. Because it could be worn reflecting personal preferences even in old communities. Additionally Gagye had flexibility to reflect the historical aspects and improved various Gagye types reflecting Buddhism and practical science. So Gagye becomes significant sharing the common value with Korea Clothing culture. Third, Korea Ancient Gagye developed aesthetic spirit concerning beauty of Clothing. In the Age of the Three States, Clothing and Gagye types kept balanced and made good harmony. Gagye had gotten little exaggerated and expanded and become changed into loaded hair type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.541-550
• /
• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.31-40
• /
• 1981

It is of great significance to perform a ceremony with the utmost honor in every society and the fact is that ancient Koreans executed sacrificial rites to natural scenery with primitive reilgious things from the beginning of Korean history. Minute records on the various ceremonies to the Koryeo Dynasty are found in Koryeodogyeong and it might be said that there were no standing rules and the many ceremonies were resorted to an expedient, because in the Yi Dynasty the first codified ceremonial lawbook, Kukjooryeeui was formalized and after then all the ceremonies and formalities were carried out by the referential rules of the above-mentioned Kukjooryeeui. After the imperial enthronement of Kojong, all the ceremonial goods and flags symbolizing the heaven and auspicious animals-authority and fortune-were made by Daemyeongjibyei, which are found at Changdeokgung now. There are no remarkable differences in the Yi Dynasty between the records at the beginning and the remaines at the last stage, which shows once-fixed standing rules were kept faithfully to the end. The main patterns used on flags were of imaginary animals such as dragon, indicating the wish that countless authority and fortune should be realized. This is the former part of the study on the ceremonial flags in the Yi Dynasty and I hope the detailed idea and symbolic meaning concerning the flags will be discussed later.