• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.645-654
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• 2021

This study aimed to visually compare the implementation of digital virtual fabrics for stretch fabrics mainly used in clothing that closely touch the body, using CLO. A digital fabric was used in CLO after measuring the weight, thickness, bending, and tensile force of five adhering clothing fabrics using a CLO fabric kit. The visual similarity of draftability was compared by measuring the area of the bending angle and the shape of the wrinkles of the real and digital fabric. A comparison of the bending angles showed that Fabric A was -0.75° and Fabric D was -2.5°, showing slightly lower drape properties than the real fabric. Meanwhile, Fabric B was 2.75°, Fabric C was 2.13°, and Fabric E was 1.375°, showing slightly higher drape properties in the vertical direction than the real fabric. Comparing the widths of the drape shapes, Fabric A was 0.77%, Fabric B was 1.27%, Fabric C was 0.06%, and Fabric E was 1.48%, which showed a slight difference. Fabric D showed a difference of 3.17% and was implemented where the digital fabric spread a little wider. As a result, the stretch fabric was visually expressed similarly to the real fabric as a whole in CLO. For 3D virtual clothing technology to be used widely in the close clothing industry in the future, more research on real clothing is needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.106-124
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to analyze the three-dimensional (3D) characteristics and reproducibility of the effective expression of North American smocking pleats in the process of making clothes using a 3D virtual clothing system (CLO) and present a method of expression according to the types of North American smocking. In this study, lattice, lozenge, and flower smocking were produced as real smocking and 3D virtual content, and actual muslin properties were measured using a Fabric Kit and reflected using an emulator. The results of this study confirmed that a dense puckered design such as North American smocking could be expressed depending upon the internal line, fold angle, and reinforcement setting for 3D smocking. To partially apply pleats to flat fabrics, it was necessary to set fold lines. The fold line setting could be expressed by designing the internal line in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions according to the North American smocking design, and then setting the fold angle for each internal line. By setting fold angles of 0 degrees and 360 degrees according to the folding direction of the set internal line, the fabric was clearly folded and stable pleats were created. This study will contribute to the vitalization of the 3D virtual fashion content industry by analyzing and presenting the optimal expression method of sophisticated and complex pleats generated according to the North American smocking design pattern.