• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권8호
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• pp.203-218
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• 2004

Recently, knitted materials are used more often than ever before in fashion. Therefore it is necessary to study their application into garment patterns. The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile property of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 5 different distribution methods of tensile property were tested on 2 sample fabrics which have a lower and higher tensile property than moderate-stretch. The subjects were five women within an age range from 18 to 24 who showed average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; The 4th method was regarded as the most valid. The 4th method was fixed proportional alteration based on the reduction amount of bust girth, i.e. front (back) width and shoulder width reduced by 60％ of the bust girth reduction and neck point reduced by 28％ of the bust girth reduction. When the reduction was based on the proportion of the actual measurements, the alteration was too severe, so that the armhole curve was changed into a very uncomfortable curve.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권6호
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• pp.937-954
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• 2010

This study analyzes the body characteristics of Korean obese women using 2004 Size Korea data. For selecting the obesity sample, 7 obesity judgment indices were chosen from previous clothing-related studies. A total of 636 females defined as "obese" by 5 out of 7 indices were selected as subjects for this study. 54 body measurements and obesity judgment indices were used. First, the subjects had a BMI 27.11, R$\ddot{o}$hrer index 1.76, Vervaeck index 104.77, Relative weight 133.00, and WHR 0.90. In the case of the distribution by age groups, the twenties were 6.4% of the entire subjects, the thirties were 18.2%, the forties were 16.4%, the fifties were 37.4%, and the sixties were 21.5%. The result of the ANOVAs (divided into 5 age groups) showed significant differences in 41 measurement items except for bust circumference, waist length front, and all of obesity judgment indices. Second, according to the ANOVAs among stature groups divided by 5cm pitches there are significant differences in all measurements except for bust circumference. The results of the ANOVAs among bust circumference groups divided by 5cm pitches show that significant differences were observed in all measurements except four measurement items (including body rise). According to the ANOVAs among the waist circumference groups divided by 5cm pitches, there are no significant differences in all height measurements and shoulder length, waist to hip length, and crotch length. It is confirmed that stature and bust circumference have a deep relationship with measurements other than waist circumference. Third, as the factor analysis were conducted using 39 measurement items to extract the body characteristics of obese women Factor 1 is "circumference measurements & obesity judgment indices," Factor 2 is "heights & arm-related lengths," and Factor 3 is "size and ratio of waist circumference & hip circumference." Factor 4 was "lengths in upper body," Factor 5 was "back width in upper body," Factor 6 was "side neck point to bust & bust circumference," Factor 7 was "length in lower body & arm circumferences," and Factor 8 was "neck base circumference & front widths in upper body." These 8 factors explained 76.54% of the total variance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.995-1007
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine on breast shapes of elderly women and provide fundamental data for developing brassiere. Numerous anthropometric measurements and other related data from 398 subjects were analyzed by various statistical methods such as ANOVA, Correlation analysis, Factor analysis and Cluster analysis. 1. Analysis of Breast Measurements The subjects were categorized into three groups(Group I; aged 55 to 64, Group II; aged 65 to 74, Group III; aged more than 75). 1) The results of the comparative analysis of anthropometric data from three groups show that by getting older: - $\circled1$ Breast lengths, widths, heights and bust girths are decreased significantly $\circled2$ Various length measurements related to the drooping degree of breast are increased $\circled3$ Some measurements related to the volume of breast are decreased. 2) The results of the correlation analysis among measurement show that there are no directs linear relationships between under bust girth and bust drooping. Further it turned out that the cup size could be used as a factor explaining the volume of breast due to large subject variation, Thus it is required to have more specific information about the breast volume. 2. Analysis of Breast Shapes 1) From 17 measurements, 5 factor were selected as key factors for the factor analysis of breast analysis of breast shapes. The 5 factors are: $\circled1$ Drooping degree of breast $\circled2$ slope between breast and chest, width of bust point $\circled3$ Contours and prominence of breast at the point of front and side $\circled4$ Breast volume $\circled5$ Breast width. 2) We categorized the breast shapes into three types by Cluster analysis. Type 1 is the most common breast shape in elderly women. $\circled1$ Type L: Not too droopy and large breast $\circled2$ Type 2: A little droopy and small breast $\circled3$ Type 3; Very droopy and wide breast

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권7호
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• pp.1044-1055
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to suggest sizing chart for a clean room wear. 3 control dimensions(Stature, Bust girth, B.N.P.∼Wrist point length) were chosen as 3 axes of clean room wear size chart. A loss function was used to determined intervals of stature, Bust girth and B.N.P.∼Wrist point length of size chart, because the loss function introduces the concept of frequency to size chart for better customer's size satisfaction. From the size table whose intervals had been determined by a loss function. The 4 sizes individually were suggested for clean room wear size chart by sex. The 3 sizes individually were suggested for clean room head cover size chart by sex too. The suggested size chart would be considered more feasible than present size chart. Also they are suggested supply reference measurement chart relevant to clean room wear manufacturing for 13 most frequent sizes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to examine the point at issue unfitness and unclassification in figures for clothing construction. Comparing measurements of 3 sold figures and physical body by Suck·Go method and 19 items were selected. These items were acquired by factor analysis and cluster analysis an measurements of 200 women in twenties. The results were as follows; 1. Comparison between measurement of figures and physical body; There was not so much difference among figures, but significant difference between figures and physical body. 2. Comparison between measurement of surface area of figures and physical body; There was similar to each figure, but significant difference between figures and physical body. Mostly, figures were bigger than physical body in front parts but smaller in back parts. 3. There were 8 items selected by factor analysis; That is bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, neck base girth, posterior waist length, bust point length, chest breadth and armscye girth. 4. There were 7 clusters selected by cluster analysis.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권6호
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• pp.534-543
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to identify the body proportions of girls in middle and high school who have been a major sales target of clothing manufacturers and thus to provide the basic information on the proportion of human body, which is essential for manufacturer to produce clothing and for individual consumers to select right apparels to wear and purchase. The subjects were 133 girls in middle school and 141 girls in high school. As measuring instruments, the Martin's anthropometer, tapelines, and belts for marking waistline were used. In order to analyze the data, t-test and factor analysis were used. The measurement of vertical distance between vertex and measuring points, showed a significant difference between the high school group and middle school group in every item. In the comparison of eight head proportion between the two groups, middle school students had 7.2 head proportion while girls in high school had 6.9 head proportion in detail. The factor analysis of major divided body parts of the two groups indicated that waist-hip and hip-crotch, constituting lower trunk together, vertex-apex nasi, and apex nasi-back neck point, constituting head together, back neck point-spina scapula and spina scapula-waist, constituting posterior of upper body together, and mentum-bust point and bust point-waist, constituting anterior of upper body together, were in inverse proportion.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.15-26
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable to their physical characteristics for the fatty body of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's Index and 90㎝ bust girth. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women were measured on 29 items. Thirty-four items including 29 measured items and 5 calcutated items were analyzed statistically. 1) Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2) Correlation coefficients between each items were computed. 2. Development of new bodice pattern drafting method: Measurement items necessary to draft new bodice pattern were bust girth, center back waist length, shoulder width, back width, chest and neck base girth. The new pattern was examined through three wearing tests for completion. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The new pattern was objectively evaluated by the sensory test. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for the fatty body women by comparint it with the conventional patterns. The results of sensory tests of the new pattern are as follows: 1) The composite reliability coefficient is 0.7698, and the reliability of sensory test shows high. 2) According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 23 items on the questionaire, all the items showed significant differences(α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new pattern is better conventional pattern as the average mark of the former is 3.901 but that of latter is 2.926. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the center front neck point, shoulder point, side line, armscye depth, position of bust point, chest width line, under arm dart and the shoulder line.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1267-1276
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to classify breast types and to inquire about characteristics depending on breast types of women subjects in their twenties. We researched size items affecting breast volume and regression equations for the prediction of breast volume, and thereby, we will be able to provide some basic data, useful to the development of the brassiere depending on breast types. As a result of categorizing the types of three breast types, "type 1" was characterized by big and greatest protrusion of the breast with large breast volume and a large bust, while "type 2" was characterized by flat breasts with the least breast volume and least bust, and "type 3" was characterized by breast location apart from the center front line. Breast volume is significant in establishment of the brassiere cup depending on breast type. Five items such as, the circumference of the breast, the length of the upper breast, the depth of the breast point, the length of the shoulder point-breast point, and the length of the inferior breast were extracted through regression equations for breast volume.