The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.
For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.34
no.8
/
pp.1233-1241
/
2010
This study analyzes the body characteristics of high school boys according to 3 different body types in order to improve the fit of upper garments. First, among the lateral body types, the straight body type was selected from the SizeKorea 3D scanned data and 2D measurement data. Second, high school boys (classified as straight lateral body type) were grouped into type B, A, and Y drop groups. The percentages of type B, type A, type Y are 17.8%, 48.1%, 32.1% respectively. The characteristics of the body types were analyzed. While the bust circumference were the same among the three body types (chest width, back width, back across shoulder, and bust width did not show a significant difference); however, waist and hip measurements showed a significant difference among the three body types. Third, the height of the high school boys ranged between 165cm and 180cm and the bust circumference between 85cm and 97cm. For the bust size categories, type B and type Y are distributed similarly; however, type A is distributed in the smaller bust size categories.
The purpose of this paper was to find out obese women's respective characteristics of torso body shape. The subjects were 132 obese women for direct measurement and were 101 obese women for indirect measurement, age of 20~59. The criterial of obesity base on Rohrer index($\geq$1.6) and busts girth ($\leq$90). The results were as follows : 1) In comparison with the average body shapes in common body types, in 30's was bigger in the bust and waist girth than the different age groups. 2) According to the difference in the basic girth(bust and waist girth, hip and bust girth, hip and waist girth) the body types were classified 2 groups. Types 1 was large bust and slightly curved from waist to hip. Type 2 was large hip and larger in the curve from waist to hip than type 1.
This paper describes the mechanism for new investment to appear in waves of boom and bust causing alternative periods of over and under supply of electricity in Korean market. A system dynamics model was developed to describe the dynamic behavior of new investment in Korean market. The simulation results show the boom and bust cycle in the new investments. When the market price is high, investors decide to build new power plants. However, it takes some delay time to complete new power plants. When the new power plants are being added into the grid, the supply increases and the wholesale price begins to decrease. This causes the cancellation of new power plant or delay the construction. This mechanism causes the boom and bust cycle in new investment.
The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.
The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.10
no.3
/
pp.37-48
/
1986
The purpose of this study was to analyze 'the natural groupings' of subjects in order to classify highly similar somatotype for clothing construction. The sample for the study was drawn randomly out of senior high school boys in Seoul urban area. The sample size was 425 boys between age 16 and 18. Cluster analysis was more concerned with finding the hierarchical structure of subjects by three dimensional distance of stature. bust girth and sleeve length. The groups forming a partition can be subdivided into 5 and 6 sets by the hierarchical tree of the given subjects. Ward's Minimum Variance Method was applied after extraction of distance matrix by the Standardized Euclidean Distance. All of the above data was analyzed by the computer installed at Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology. The major findings, take for instance, of 16 age group can be summarized as follows. The results of cluster analysis of this study: 1. Cluster 1 (32 persons means $18.29\%$ of the total) is characterized with smaller bust girth than that of cluster 5, but stature and sleeve length of the cluster 1 are the largest group. 2. Cluster 2 (18 Persons means $10.29\%$ of the total) is characterized with the group of the smallest stature and sleeve length, but bust girth larger than that of cluster 3. 3. Cluster 3(35persons means $20\%$ of the total) is classified with the smallest group of all the stature, bust girth and sleeve length. 4. Cluster 4(60 persons means $34.29\%$ of the total) is grouped with the same value of sleeve length with the mean value of 16 age group, but the stature and bust girth is smaller than the mean value of this age group. 5. Cluster 5(30 persons means $17.14\%$ of the total) is characterized with smaller stature than that of cluster 1, and with larger bust girth than that of cluster 1, but with the same value of the sleeve length with the mean value of the 16 age group.
The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.
The objective of the study was to obtain standard sizes of body of the high school girls for designing clothes and developing pattern grading of clothes. In 1972, 342 students, selected by the stratified cluster random sampling method, at three high schools in Seoul were measured on forty-one items by the R. Martin method. Statistical techniques of mean, standard deviation, coefficient variable, maximum and minimum, range, t-test were utilized to analyze the data. The findings of the study were as follows ; 1. No differences were found among the age groups in the all measured variables. 2. Stature, bust girth, hip girth, acromion width, posterior waist girth/stature ratio of the high school girls were significantly smaller than those sizes of adult women. This result implies that those sizes will be increased as the students grow up. But upper arm girth, upper arm girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh girth/bust girth ratio were bigger than those sizes of adult women. Waist girth, thigh girth, total head height/stature ratio, acromion width/stature ratio, and foot length/stature ratio were nearly similiar to those of adult women. 3. According to the result of t-test, waist breadth, spinailiaca anterior height/stature ratio, thigh girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh/hip girth ratio of the 15 year old group were significantly different from those of the 16 year old group at the level of 0.05. Bust girth, weight, foot breadth, posterior croth length, and cervical height/stature ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.01. Hip girth, upper arm girth, waist breadth/stature ratio, and neck base girth/bust girth ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.05.
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