• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.116-135
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• 2008

To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles, masks, ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer's dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used for the working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material was used to construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound and edge finishing seams to construct the working clothes selected.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2000

China adopted a free market economy system and entered into the WTO(World Trad Organization). It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the world for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate in Chinese and Korea college female students's clothing behavior for fitness and to suggest basic informations for high quality clothing merchandising for China. The subjects in this study were 430 college female students, aged from 18 to 24 living in Beijing(215) and Seoul(215). The survey were taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, $x^2$-test. The results of this study are as follows. Examination on the Korean and Chinese preference of clothing behavior showed that Korean and Chinese have different preference for skirt, slacks, jacket and has different sensibility of the items of clothing behavior. The Chinese students prefer individual, feminine costume behavior, and fitted clothes to loose fitted skirt and slacks. Korean student want to lower waist position for all items. It is needed to different merchandising project for clothing in China.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.149-156
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• 2010

TV news anchor woman's appearance, voice, expression, and clothing, etc., have an influence on the reliability of the article to be reported. Among these, clothing is the most crucial factor in forming an anchor woman's image, especially the clothing color factor. This study is aimed at providing the basic foundation for anchor woman when they select the clothing color by analyzing the clothing color image on the screen. For this purpose, the KBS and MBC 9 o'clock news desk and SBS 8 o'clock news of the local major news programs were selected. With the collection of 300 pieces of news clips related to anchor woman's clothing from January to December 2008, they were classified into F/W seasons and analyzed by the clothing color. The surveying method of clothing color was to capture the anchor woman's clothing among the news clips, then pick the representing color by applying Adobe Photoshop, and researching the formed $L^*a^*b^*$ value of color chips. The surveyed color was transformed into value of distant cell, H V/C, and the results were analyzed. As a result, it showed that the White system for anchor woman's clothing during the S/S seasons is most frequently picked, followed by the Red system. In F/W seasons, Gray system is the most favored, then White and Red, respectively. It was revealed that the most frequently selected colors for upper-wear by anchor women in the three broadcasting stations was an achromatic color, such as White or Gray, and then the chromatic color, Red. It shows that there is no big difference in season. The Inner-wear color matched the jackets which were also achromatic in color, white and black being the most favored in the S/S seasons, and in the case of chromatic colors, Red was the most favored. In addition to this, identical coloration with jacket, coloration with similar color, or single color as clothing color were no less frequently adopted. During the F/W seasons, identical coloration accounts for 26%, the most popular colored being White and Red. It was found that the coloration with achromatic colors are highly favored in the three major broadcasting stations alike.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

This study is largely aimed at presenting ways to improve the working clothes and help companies create more positive images by suggesting designs of the clothes, which take into accounts the corporate image, symbolism, function and aesthetic appreciation through introduction of companies' CIP. And, it is significant to propose working clothes development condition and process with introduction of companies' CIP(Corporate Identity Program : work that systematize and simplify visually images which companies or public bodies have) A way of this study was made up with working clothes design development process which a student planned. First of all, this study looked into Company D's Corporate Identity Program(CIP) to develop the design that corresponds with the characteristics of the company's favorite design, working environment and demands of the employees. And, then, the study conducted a survey of 30 employees and intensive interviews with heads of four teams including the Safety Team, the Working Clothes Management Team and the General Affairs Team to find out the requirements of the clothes and the characteristics of the company. Based on them, the concrete image that the company pursues and the direction of design were set up through image positioning. In the end, three different concept designs were presented through image-mapping and the concrete design of each item was developed. A total of seven items including upper and lower garments (a jacket and trousers) for the spring-summer seasons, upper and lower garments (a jumper and trousers) for the winter season, cold-protecting vest and winter clothes (a coat and trousers) were presented in accordance with the three concepts. One of the concept designs, which was selected through evaluation by employees of Company D, was produced as a sample and then the final design was chosen after a discussion attended by the head of each team and representatives of the employees. Based on the aforementioned design planning, one design was selected from each of the three concept designs for production. And each of these was requested to special production enterprise and manufactured. Following the result of study, by looking into a case of a practical joint design project between a university and a company, this study suggested ideas for business to improve working clothes through the academic-industrial cooperation and presented conditions and process of design development. And, this study also aims to examine the feasibility of academic-industrial cooperation based on the cases in which enterprises and universities staged joint projects to develop working clothes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to suggest sleeve cap height with a satisfying wearing sensation and appearance on jackets for women in their twenties so that high-consumer demand jackets can be produced. Five experimental jackets with sleeve cap heights of [(AH/3)-1cm], [(AH/3)-0.5cm], [AH/3], [(AH/3)+0.5cm] and [(AH/3)+0.8cm] were made for 30 subjects to try on after which the subjects were then surveyed for their assessment of appearance, wearing sensation and preference. On the basis of the results, the optimum height of the sleeve cap has been proposed along with the following contents and results of this research. 1. [AH/3] [(AH/3)+0.8cm] of sleeve cap height was assessed to beof desirable appearance. 2. [AH/3] of sleeve cap height garnered a high opinion in terms of intuitive wearing sensation, while [(AH/3)-1cm] [AH/3] were the heights with overall satisfaction of intuitive and movement wearing sensations. If discomfort in the upper sleeve at 'straight arm' posture can be tolerated, the sleeve cap height can be set to [(AH/3)-1cm]~[(AH/3)+0.5cm]. 3. [AH/3] and [(AH/3)+0.5cm] were found to have a high preference among wearers, which indicated that the women in their twenties prefer a slim type of sleeve, putting appearance above wearing sensation. Consequently, [AH/3] is desirable when appearance, wearing sensation and preference are considered, [(AH/3)+0.5cm] is fit for business uniform for static duties or formal dress focused on aesthetic impression and [(AH/3)-1cm]~[AH/3] are desirable for work clothes when considering active duties.

• 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국신재생에너지학회 2011년도 춘계학술대회 초록집
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• pp.55.2-55.2
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• 2011

The final site of offshore wind power plant should be decided by comprehensive examination of various conditions such as wind resource, sea depth, geology, grid connection, social circumstance and environmental issue. Wind condition is typically regarded as the most important factor because wind energy increases in proportion to wind velocity and it directly relates to the amount of power output, efficiency of power plant and profitability. Advanced countries in the offshore wind power sector such as Denmark, UK and Germany, they are analyzing wind resource accurately by installing the meteorological mast in the ocean in order to get the optimal type of wind turbine and maximum generation efficiency. Also, it is made much of designing offshore power plant on the basis of actual measurement by met-mast and those wind farms have a chance to get the loan with reduced interest rate in project financing. In Korea, the HEMOSU-1 is installed in the ocean around Wido island to analyze wind resource of test bed of 100MW offshore wind power on october last year. This paper deals with the design and construction procedure of the first met-mast in Korea and also shows the site characteristics of test bed. Therefore, this paper will give useful information to local governments and private business sector who are trying to construct offshore wind farm and it can also be a good reference for the following projects of meteorological mast in near future.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.367-380
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• 2002

This study tries to search and analyze empirically the clothing merchandise purchase motivation and behavior made by foreign visitors who bought clothes as tour memorials in South Korea. To make a empirical study we made survey research and evaluated 30 items for the survey of clothing purchase motivation and 25 items for the survey of the importance and satisfaction revealed at the time of purchase with the standard of Likert 5 point. We had chosen 614 sample participants including 176 English speakers, 211 Japanese speakers, and 277 Chinese speakers among those foreign tourists who had purchased clothing materials at the Dongdaemun Shopping Mall. The result of analysis is as follows : As the result of factor analysis about the clothing merchandise purchase, we had 6 factors. They are (1)impulse, (2)utility, (3)fashionableness, (4)tour commemoration (5)psychology (6)economy. As the result of cluster analysis based on the standard of selected 6 factors of clothing merchandise purchase motivation, we could divide three groups such as (1)the pursuit type of clothing merchandise purchase, (2)the pursuit type of recreation of feeling (3)the pursuit type of tour memorial. As the result of analysis on the items of purchased clothing merchandise, the highest frequency of purchase was made by T-shirt, then by the order of sweater, blouse, and aloha shirt, pants, and jacket. In regard to the importance of items related to clothing merchandise, the highest importance was made by design, then by the order of price, size, color and utility, and style. In regard to the items related to the service of shopping mall, the highest satisfaction was made by the convenience of business hour. Meanwhile, the lowest satisfaction was made by the inconvenience of fitting room, the speaking and by ability of foreign languages by sales agents.