• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.92-108
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• 2015

This study aimed at developing a down jacket prototype that utilized sunlight as an alternative energy source with no air pollution. The jacket is filled with flexible solar panels and has a heat-generating function and LED function. In this study, three smart down jacket prototypes were developed, and the jacket's capabilities were demonstrated through the thermal effect on the performance test. The typical output voltage of the flexible solar panels was 6.4V. By connecting the 2 solar cell modules in series, the final output voltage was 12.8V. A battery charge regulator module was used the KA 7809 (TO-220) of 9V. Three heating pads were to be inserted into the belly of the jacket as direct thermal heating elements, and the LED module was configured, separated by a flash and an indicator. The smart down jacket was designed to prevent damage to the down pack without the individual devices' interfering with the human body's motion. Because this study provides insulation from extreme cold with a purpose, the jacket was tested for heat insulation properties of non-heating, heating on the back, heating on the abdomen, and heating on both the back and abdomen in a sitting posture in a static state. Thermal property analysis results from examining the average skin temperature, core temperature, and the temperature and humidity within clothing showed, that placing a heating element in one place was more effective than distributing the heating elements in different locations. Heating on the back was the most effective for maintaining optimal skin temperature, core temperature, and humidity, whereas heating on the abdomen was not effective for maintaining optimal skin temperature, core temperature, or humidity within clothing because of the gap between the jacket and the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1649-1660
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• 2006

IIn the United States, professional dress codes for working women have changed over time since the 1970s. Considering the changes, from conservative and traditional business uniforms in the 1970s, business casual in the late 1980s through 1990s, and the current revival of tailored business suits, this study investigated working women's business jacket practices and their association with personal, psycho-social, and physical characteristics. Working women's job satisfaction and corporate culture were also examined in relation to business jacket practices. Research data were collected by implementing mail surveys to 1,500 randomly selected working women in the United States. Of the 1,500 distributed questionnaires, a total of 312 were returned, of which 265 were deemed usable, yielding a 20.8% response rate. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, such as frequency, percentage distribution, mean scores, standard deviations, and Canonical Correlation were tabulated. The respondents ranged in age from 22 to 65. The mean age of the respondents was 44 years(SD=9.63). Most respondents were married(77.4%), working full-time(81.4%), career-oriented (77.2%), Caucasian(89.8%), had at least one child(78.9%), and had a professional job(75.9%). Working women's age, number of children, self-confidence in dressing, perceived importance of clothing, body frame size, and visibility to superiors and public were positively associated with business jacket practices, while age of first child, family size, dress size, and job satisfaction were negatively associated with business jacket practices.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.59-72
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• 2014

This study provides the structural design for commercialization of outdoor breathable waterproof jackets for men merged with solar cells to enable emergency communications, utilizing wearable devices to develop smart clothing and extend convenience in everyday life. The most popular waterproof jacket with two-layer and three-layer moisture-permeable waterproof fabric was selected, based on previous studies of functional outdoor jackets and style with affinity to fashion. Flexible solar films suitable for clothing were embedded in the lining of the sleeve area and hood visor, and printed film was developed to balance weight and design. High performance smart solar jackets have application to expanding the use of smart phones for everyday and emergency communication, and leisure and outdoor sports activities, as well as day-to-day functions as a waterproof breathable outdoor jacket for men. It is also eco-friendly. Satisfying both the aesthetic and practical, a solar cell jacket with smart features, is an innovative tool for use in a variety of outdoor activities, and a fashion-forward commercialized product.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.299-310
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop wool knitted Jacket pattern suited for Middle-aged women's body shape. The usable data of first and second wearing test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and one way- ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B were better than the rest of them. 2. It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket B with milano were better than the rest of them. Therefore, it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. 3. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it is necessary that knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance such as a woven jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.140-157
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to develop three functions for smartphones and PCs using a textile touch sensor in an everyday sports jacket and to present their usefulness; to this end, we have developed a mutual capacitive textile touch sensor and corresponding structure, and we have implemented three functions into a textile touch sensor jacket, of which we also conducted a usability evaluation. The jacket has a sensor on the wrist of the left sleeve and a device on the left arm. The sensor system can be divided into three main categories: a sensor acting as a switch, a circuit connecting the sensor and the device, and the device that acts as power control and system on/off. The functions are implemented in the texture touch sensor jacket in three modes: cell phone mode, music mode, and PPT presentation mode. We conducted an evaluation of each function in each mode, which indicated that all functions performed well without errors and that the switch had excellent operation for the number and intensity of touch. In terms of usability in a humid environment, the performance of touch functions was found to be equally implemented. In the temperature environment, neither high nor low temperatures caused issues with the functions. A wearing satisfaction assessment evaluated psychological satisfaction, clothing convenience, device convenience, device usability, and device effectiveness. This research jacket is thought to be desirable for the relatively bendable, flexible, and intimate sensor used on the clothing, and the circuit made of conductive fabric tape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects and visual images by variations in shoulder angle and shoulder width of power shoulder jacket. The stimuli are 5 samples: One control group, 2 variations of the angle of shoulder line and 2 variations of the width of shoulder line. The data has been obtained from 87 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the Correlation Analysis. The results of the study are as follows: The visual images by the angle and the width of shoulder line of power shoulder jacket are composed of 4 factors : attention, stiffness and softness, masculinity, and trendiness. Among these factors, attention factor is estimated by the most important factor. The visual effects by the angle and the width of shoulder line of power shoulder jacket are composed of 3 factors : whole silhouette, neck and arm figure, upper body figure. In these factors, the whole silhouette is estimated by the most important factor. The power shoulder jacket with extreme changes in shoulder angle has double images: it looks trendy and classy but also gives an awkward image. In case of changes in shoulder width, the visual evaluation shows big differences with the degree of expansion. The visual evaluation with variation in angle has stronger image and effect than that in width. The power shoulder jacket trend itself is also evaluated that variation in angle reflects the trend better than that in width.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.46-61
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze critical needs and demands for the multifunctional traveler's jacket and to develop design prototypes based on the findings from the analysis. A self-report questionnaire with the stimuli was applied. Total 163 travelers were purposively sampled for the survey and the data were analyzed quantitatively as well as qualitatively. The results were as follows: 1. The respondents were divided into three groups - "digital-functionality-needs group", "non-digitalfunctionality-needs group", "no-need group", according to their preference and needs for the multifunctional traveler's jacket. 2. The three groups were analyzed (1) to have meaningful differences in experiencing inconvenience in their traveling, (2) to have statistically significant differences in their needs for the multifunctional traveler's jacket, (3) while some imperative consensus in their needs were found in part. 3. Based on the findings of the analysis mentioned above, three design prototypes were developed and visualized with conclusion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.182-199
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• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.