• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.15-35
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to develop brassiere pattern designed to fit the breast shapes based on ESMOD pattern. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they evaluated the appearance and wearing twice. Type I for research pattern designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size were assessed as superior to the divided commercial type. However, wings' tightness of Type I for research pattern brassiere was high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing. Based on the results of wearing experiments of Type I for research, we adjusted and modified Type II for research pattern. Subsequently, its appearance and wearing were evaluated, in order to be improved. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was somewhat long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, suggestive that implies it does not require much improvement Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be similar to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings' tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.196-202
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• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.50-66
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• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2015

This study develops a new brassiere for new silver women. A new brassiere design was developed for the silver generation based on apreliminary survey; subsequently, a wire and no-wire type of brassier were developed after a second fitting evaluation. The results were as follows. First, in terms of brassiere design, the cup shape was designed as mold type full cup, shoulder straps were designed as camisole type with cups, bias tape was designed for body correction in the side line and mash tape was designed for easy movement below the cups. On the other side ofthe cup shape was a pocketdesigned on a support pad forthe wire type and a support panel to serve as a wire in the no-wire type brassiere. Second, brassiere patterns were designed by referencing the educational H pattern. Thetotal length was elongated by 5cmto reduce pressure when wearing a brassiere and the height of the front center increased by 8cm for the stability of the front center of the brassiere. In addition, the side line was moved back by 3cm and the width of the brassiere wings was designed widely at 10.5cm. Third, a wearing test was conducted for the wire type and the no-wire type brassiere with comparison products, using a 7-point Likert scale. Appearance results and movement tests for the wire and no-wire type showed a higher score than comparison products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.646-660
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• 2017

This study provides basic data to develop a brassiere pattern that can cover the big breast of breast enlargement patients. In this study, we also showed areas of the brassiere cup pattern and the body surface of the breast on a breast enlargement patient. The results of the study are as follows. Correlation analysis was obtained between volume and body surface area and breast detail dimensions. After the correction process, we proposed a research bra pattern for breast augmentation patients. The cup-boundary in bra patterns of breast enlargement surgery patients is longer than the bra patterns of the general breast; therefore, the height of the inner and outer edges of the upper cups is higher. Also, it is necessary to set the new breast upper point when measuring the upper length in patients with breast augmentation surgery because the points of circumference of the breast are marked higher than chest circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.729-741
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• 2007

In order to examine the characteristics of brassiere products for the 1924 generation brands on the market and grasp problems, we selected three 'comparative brassieres', each one from among the 1924 underwear brands with the highest recognition and sales profit, and then designed a 'sample brassiere' pattern(75A) with a similar shape to the comparative brassieres. We set up the "New Cup Grading Rule" with a view of reflecting the wearing effect that was varied according to cup sizes, graded the sizes of 75AA and 75B with this method, and made the sample brassieres in three sizes. We conducted the wearing evaluation and body measurements of 9 subjects after analyzing the patterns and characteristics of the sample brassieres and three comparative brassieres. As a result of the wearing evaluation, the sample and comparative brassiere 2, the dimensions and shapes were appropriate for the 1924 generation consumers and expressed an overall natural silhouette, showed satisfactory results in the entire evaluation questions. On the other hand, the comparative brassiere 1 and 3 that tended toward making a big change in the physical characteristics got unsatisfactory evaluations in the dimensions of the cups, clothing pressure, and bust silhouette. As a result of observing the variation in body dimensions by body measurements when nude and when wearing each brassiere and then summing it up with the score of the wearing evaluation, it was proven that too much change in body shape can create a negative image by upsetting the balance of the whole silhouette. Therefore, it is desirable to develop brassiere products with proper dimensions and clothing pressure that can make a physical change that harmonizes the overall bust silhouette and the position and shape of the breasts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.635-644
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• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.447-457
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• 2003

The shape of womens breast is the most important part of body silhouette. For the high-fitted clothes, in particular, more refined brassiere effective enough to show the beautiful line of female breast is asked. This study focuses on comparing the difference of the two different textiles of brassiere as to their effectiveness as a brassiere. The Stockman Lingerie Mannequin made by England is used for the draping method for the brassiere pattern. Two different brassieres of stretchable and unstretchable(cotton) textiles respectively were made out of this pattern, and the difference of effectiveness wearing the two brassieres was compared. 30 females ranging in the ages of 19 through 24, and whose size is 75A were selected as the test group who are to wear them. The result of each measurement proves that the cotton brassiere is more effective than the stretchable brassiere as a whole considering center concentration of breast, projection of breast, and bust up function. The result of the test on satisfaction of wearing brassiere was also in favor of cotton brassiere as to projection effect, bust up effect, making a good shape of bust. For the cup, in particular, unstretchable textile is more effective for making a breast look better.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.31-53
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• 2008

This study is to suggest a brassiere pattern suitable to the Chinese woman by recognizing the differences among the brassiere patterns of Europe, America and Italy by comparison. Collected data was analyzed by using SPSS 12.0. 1. If seeing the length of the ordinary brassiere's wing in Korea, the mean is 31.02cm to be shorter than these 3 patterns. The length of a wing should be adjusted according to the degree of fabric's elasticity. 2. The ESMOD type shows a high angle of $60^{\circ}$ as the position of a shoulder strip is placed outward a lot compared with other patterns. 3. For the FIT and Marangoni types, the lengths of the inside and the external diameters show similarly to each other but the ESMOD type shows that its inside diameter is 7.5cm and external one is 9.6cm to have the difference of 2.1cm so that it is considered to put the bust together stronger than the others. 4. The cup circumference of the FIT pattern shows to be the biggest and that of the FIT pattern is the smallest. As the FIT pattern has the shape to wrap the side of the bust, it has large circumference but as it has a narrow angle of a dart, it seems to be fit to the woman with a small and flat bust. 5. For 1/2 of the nipple distance of the brassiere for the Korean adult women, it shows to be 6.12cm, much narrower than the patterns studied, and it is noticed that the ESMOD pattern is very similar to the brassier in the Korean market. 6. As the mean keeper height is 6.5cm, it is noticed that it is very similar to the brassier for the Korean adult women if comparing that the brassiere for the Korean adult has the keeper height of 6.5-8.6cm. The Marangoni pattern tends to have a little low and the ESMOD and FIT patterns have a ordinary measure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.