• 제목/요약/키워드: Bok

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三國史記의 服飾硏究 Ⅵ -色服의 服飾 附屬品을 中心으로- (A Study on the Costume Accessories of Shilla in Sam Kuk Sa Ki(三國史記))

  • 김진구
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제7권3호
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 1999
  • This study in concerned with the costume accessories appeared in Sam Kuk Sa ki. The accessories of both sexes were analized. Results of this research can be summarized as follows : It was appeared that names of accessories of men were fewer in number than those of women. Men\`s accessories such as a hat, bok-du, a belt,boots, shoes, and sock were mentioned in Sam Kuk Sa Ki. Women\`s accessories appeared such as a hat, a comb, a hair pin, a belt, shoes, and sock. A bok-du, boots, and a hared belt were used exclusively by men, while a hat, kwan(冠), a comb, a hair pin, a scarf, pyo( ) were worn exclusively by women. All men from different classes including true bone class as well as the common class wore bok-du, a hat, a hard belt, boots, sock ; however, class distinctions were made from materials used for those items. Also women\`s accessories were used as means of differentiating social status of the wearer by means of materials employed for each item. Especially, woman\`s hat and scarf were a symbol of the noble class. Only two classes of women from the true-bone class and women from the sixth du-pum class entited to wear hats. Wearing a scarf was not allowed to women from the common class. Class dirrernetiations were made by the materials used for hats and scarves. Materials for a scarf such as gold and silver leaf, pecock tail, and king fisher fly feather were restricted to women from true-bone class. Such as man\`s hat bok-du( 頭), use of women\`s comb and hair pin, scarf, leggings were items drived from Tang China. It clearly showed that costume accessories of Silla were heavily influenced by the Chinese. At the same time the costume accessories were sued to make sex difference among the people of Silla. Woman wore a soft belt made of cloth while man wore a hard belt. Woman\`s hat, a scarf, a comb, a hair pin, a belt or sash for a shirt, and leggings were woman\`s sex symbol. Thus, costume accessories of Silla appeared in Sam Kum Sa Ki functioned as means of differentiating social status of the wearer such as sex,class and rank in the society. Also, they showed that Silla kingdom had close cultural relationship with Tang China.

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현대의 전통한복에 사용된 장식기법의 유형과 특성 [제II보] - 2006~2009년 화보에 나타난 여자한복을 중심으로 - (The Types and Characteristics of Decoration Techniques Applied to Traditional HanBok [Part II] - Focusing on Traditional HanBok for Women that were Delivered between 2006 and 2009 -)

  • 이영애;김순구
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제12권6호
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    • pp.705-714
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    • 2010
  • This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

외국인의 눈에 비친 개항기 복식문화 (The Costume Culture was seen to the Foreigners in the period of the Opening of a Port)

  • 이민주
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제7권1호
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    • pp.101-112
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    • 2005
  • 21th is the century of culture. So each country create new culture from tradition, and at the hub, there is Rapid development of network which makes these things to be able. Also, Korea selected Han-Bok as a symbol of Korea culture, and also Han-Bok internationally. Han-Bok expresses our nation's emotion very well, and also, Han-Bok has universality that can stimulate on world's sensitivity. Consequently, this study will arrange and analyze the records of foreigners' feeling who visited in the period of the opening of a port as a target of our study. This study will offer materials for study in the period of the opening of a port. Also, this study will discover the significance and organization of our clothes. Way to wear it and the beauty of our clothes that we didn't even realize or not mentioned on the record because we were too accustomed to our beauty from the ancient time. So, we would like to be basic study that can make our clothes globally and appeal to world's sensitivity by finding the universality. The result of this study is as follows. First, the items of hat made us be called as a 'world of hat' so, Gat, Galmo(갈모), a women's winter hat(조바위), a fur-lined hood(남바위) and Ayam(아얌) will be obtained the world's focus. Secondly, we checked Belt, breast-tie, rainbow striped sleeves and Pocket which append vitality and movement arrested the foreigners' attention. Thirdly, foreigner's were interested with straw shoes and paper shoes.

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한국 생활화를 위한 디자인 개발에 관한 연구 -남성 일상복을 중심으로- (A Study on the Practical Korea Costume for men)

  • 이태옥
    • 복식
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    • 제21권
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    • pp.177-192
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    • 1993
  • The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.

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중국 단령명칭에 관한 연구 (A study on the name of Dan-Ryong in China)

  • 문광희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.87-96
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    • 1987
  • Dan-Ryong is the traditional clothing that was worn the entire of oriental nations, and it was spreaded from Sun-Bi tribe to China about A.D. 4C. The first, the name of Dan-Ryong was translated with 25-Sa and Ancient-History Book. Among the name of Dan-Ryong, the follows were different between the name and shape. Jang-Bok was the colored Dan-Ryong, So-Bok was the unfigured black Dan-Ryong and removed Hyung-Bae, Ea-Mun-Pho was the Dan-Ryong of embroidered figure poetry, and Ja-Sam was the real short and tight Dan-Ryong. The second, some problems were given by translated Dan-Ryong's name. The results of the problems were as follows; 1. Dan-Ryong was oriented from Won-Wi. 2. At Su-Dynasty, there was going to the persuit of Han-Dynasty Courtesy, but they liked useful custom. Therefore Dan-Ryong was worn in daily life among the population. 3. At Dang-Dynasty, Ho-Bok was devided with three meanings. The first was Go-Sub, the second was Dan-Ryong of Buk-Jo about A.D. 3$\~$5 C and the last meaning was the clothing of Uighur, Turkey, Persia and etc. about A.D. 7 C. 4. The name of neck-line shape was started at Song and the majority arised about A.D. 12 C. and Dan-Ryong was only arised at Myong-Dynasty. 5. Gok-Ryong, except Song-Sa and Sam-Je-He-Bo, was different from Dan-Ryong and it was shape of neck-line inside of Jik-Ryong.

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16세기 탱화에 나타난 조선전기 복식연구 (Study on the Costume of Early Joseon Dynasty Appearing in 16th Century Taenghwa)

  • 김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제64권1호
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    • pp.45-63
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    • 2014
  • In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

The Research of Costume on Shin, Yun-Bok's Painting in Late Chosun Dynasty

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제14권3호
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    • pp.52-63
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    • 2010
  • The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

냉동과 해동에 따른 국매리복 근육의 독화 (Muscle Intoxication of 'Gukmeri-bok' Puffer (Takifugu vermicularis radiatus) by Freezing and Thawing)

  • 전중균;홍경표
    • 한국수산과학회지
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    • 제37권3호
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    • pp.175-178
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    • 2004
  • We here report that the muscle of 'gukmeri-bok' puffer fish (Takifugu vermicularis radiatus) is intoxicated after freezing and thawing processes even though it is not toxic when it is fresh. This study was carried out to investigate the effect of different freezing and thawing conditions as well as the effect of the presence of skin or viscera on the intoxication of muscle of 'gukmeri-bok' puffer during freezing and thawing process. As a result of this investigation, thawing condition, but not freezing conditions or periods played an important role in muscle intoxication. Tetrodotoxin secretory grands exist in the skin of toxic puffer fish, the skin was more responsible for the muscles intoxication than the viscera during the freezing-thawing process. In other words, no toxicity was measured in the muscle of skinned-frozen specimens even when thawed. According to this result, it is recommended that the skin and viscera must be removed before being frozen for edible purpose. Otherwise, when a whole fish should be frozen, alternative half-thawing and removal of skin from frozen specimens is recommended.

Bad Subjects and the Transnational Minjung: The Poetry of Jason Koo and Ed Bok Lee

  • Grotjohn, Robert
    • 영어영문학
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    • 제64권3호
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    • pp.307-327
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    • 2018
  • In light of Korean inclusion of its diaspora as part of the nation, a "creolized" approach that brings together constructions of the bad subject of Asian American studies with conceptions of the Korean minjung grounds an analysis of two poets as they might be considered from a bi-national, Korean and U.S. American, perspective. The poets Ed Bok Lee and Jason Koo show different ways of being the bad subject. Lee is clearly a bad American subject, resisting American white racial hegemony, and his poetry often addresses a kind of American minjung multiculturalism, as is shown in poems from his first two books Real Karaoke People and Whorled. He challenges some aspects of contemporary Korea, and might be a kind of Korean bad subject in those challenges. Koo, on the other hand, resists the call to bad subjectivity, so that his poetry may not fit the preferred paradigm of Asian American studies, as he recognizes. As he resists that paradigm, he also gives little attention to his Korean heritage, so his not-bad American subjectivity becomes bad Korea subjectivity. He recovers some measure of badness in the final poem of Man on Extremely Small Island when he connects briefly to his Korean heritage and his Asian American present. The creolized juxtaposition of the bad subject with the minjung suggests the use of these poems in considering both American and Korean society.