• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.121-136
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• 2019

The fashion market is expanding and competition is intensifying due to the contraction of consumption in response to the economic recession and changes in trends. In this study, design characteristics reflecting the brand identity and trend are analyzed as important factors for success. In this study, we will look at the design characteristics of knitwear among SPA brand products and help to plan knit designs. First, six brands were selected based on the sales and the number of stores in domestic and foreign SPA brands. The selected brands include UNIQLO, ZARA, H&M, SPAO, TOPTEN, and 8Seconds. We have selected weft knitting knitwear products(1,736 pieces), which are currently sold in domestic and foreign SPA brands, as silhouette items, knitwear design items, gauges, colors, patterns, images, and items as analysis items to analyze the causes of the differences in the design characteristics of domestic and foreign knitwear. The SPA brand has a wide range of tattoo floors, emphasizing practical aspects, a silhouette that fits the body, and a comfortable daily style. Domestic and foreign SPA brands did not show much difference, but Korean brands had a lower diversity of organization and used color for stable sales, showing a lower concern in trend and strong point color applications. If foreign brands pursue femininity based on a sexy image, Korean brands displayed a difference, emphasizing cute images. As for other design factors, it was found that brand identity was reflected more than domestically. As the cycle of trends becomes shorter, fast fashion is expected to continue in the future, and it is hoped that this research will be used as useful data for design projects of domestic companies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.84-103
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• 1998

The purpose of this study si focused on Futurism style and contemporary fashion in the 20th century, by researching the Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Tullio Crali, Erenesto Thayate characteristics fashion design. The results of this study are following as : The general traits of Futurism style are classified with aesthetics, formative characteristics. First, aesthetic characteristics are based on H. Bergson's life-phylosophy and F. Nietzche's art theory. Second, formative characteristics is Dynamism. Futurism Dynamism are classified with psychological Dynamism and physical Dynamism. Futurism trends in the costume : first, dynamism in fashion design, second, asymmetrical balance, third, formativeness, forth, technology, fifth, anti-traditionalism. Dynamism are expressed textile, pattern and costuem shape in contemporary dress. Asymmetrical balance are expressed costume silhouette shape and framework through the geometrical asymmetrical balance. Formativeness are agree with Paco Rabanne's fashion design expressed body and movement and phychological world of human through the secondly fabric. Technology are expressed new mechanical dynamism in used technology art and new fashion material by metal. The last, anti-traditionalism is recognized new value and idea in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.209-219
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to identify the constructive principle and techniques of Vionnet's works. According to analysis of Vionnets works, it was found that Vionnet conceived of the human body as a continuous shaping of a cylinder. Vionnet's drapery denied the planner presumption of woman and gave real three-dimension to form and to fashion. The techniques of Vionnet's works were as fallow : (1) She introduced the diogonal "bias cut" and changed dress design by her sensuous use of fabrics. (2) She eliminated interfacing to keep the silhouette and the fabric soft. (3) She manipulated the fabric to remove the excess for fit and decoration at the same time. (4) She treated the fabric with a synthesis of geometry and grace. (5) The sale luxury allowed was to note the choice of seams, facings, hems, and stitches. (6) Vionnet's dresses were not lined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.265-278
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was that the real clothes is based on the cultural characteristic of the nation and is influenced by the consumers' psychology and desire in their daily lives. At this point, I investigated what was the most desirable clothes for the women in their home and at their office and found out how this aspect was expressed by Donna Karan design. Donna Karan noticed that executive women didn't want to wear such a masculine clothes, so she designed sensual and womanly clothes. She choosed active and comfortable fabric and made silhouette to cover woman's imperfect body. The colors of clothes and accessories were made to coordinate easily. Especially in advertisement she presented a executive New Yorker woman in trust as a symbol of American culture. Now, Donna Karan is one of the most successful fe-male designers and her influence is all over the world.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.132-137
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• 2000

This study was carried out to evaluate the distribution of mechanical and thermal properties of 14 sorts of tencel fabrics. Three kinds of cellulosic fabrics such as cotton 100%, cotton/tencel 50/50% and rayon 100% were used to compare with tencel fabrics. Furthermore, for the comparison of thermal properties, these fabrics were repeatedly washed 1, 3, 5, 10, 15 and 20 times respectively. The mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system and Thereto Labo II type was employed to measure the thermal properties of warmth retaining and contact warm/cool feeling($q_{max}$). The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical and thermal properties. Tencel showed sufficient ability to recover from bending deformation and drapability comparing with other cellulosic fabrics and had a silhouette which goes along with the body.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-37
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• 2007

Madeleine Vionnet(1876$\sim$1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time. The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.426-435
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to consider the changes of the early twentieth century fashion in pursuit of mechanical beauty. As for the research methodology, literature survey has been undertaken. The results of this study are as following. In early twentieth century, fashion concept on the expression of mechanical beauty was considered as abstractness, atypicality, and high-tech. The abstractness of fashion was expressed by geometrical purity, box silhouette, moderate color, and cheap materials in association with mechanical reasonability and efficiency. The atypicality of fashion was connected progressive taste motivated by mechanical dynamic effect. This tendency of dress was constructed technically in response with the movement of body and totally transgressed conventional notions of clothing. The high-tech of fashion was presented by geometrical forms and metal materials in relation with the future-oriented utopia and the harmony between human and machine.

• The Transactions of the Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers P
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.130-135
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• 2016

Gait recognition has advantage of non-contact type recognition. But It has disadvantage of low recognition rate when the pedestrian silhouette is changed due to bag or coat. In this paper, we proposed new method using combination of gait energy image feature and thermal face image feature. First, we extracted a face image which has optimal focusing value using human body rate and Tenengrad algorithm. Second step, we extracted features from gait energy image and thermal face image using linear discriminant analysis. Third, calculate euclidean distance between train data and test data, and optimize weights using genetic algorithm. Finally, we compute classification using nearest neighbor classification algorithm. So the proposed method shows a better result than the conventional method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.488-495
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to experiment and develop seamless-effect knitwear design using tubular-jacquard structure in order to find a new method of manufacturing knitwear and to suggest a new design. The study is based on changing the point of view about using the practical technique like the tubular jacquard which has been used mainly for expressing patterns. The result of experimenting this, a piece of fabric is able to being worn as a piece of garment. As for using circular structure of tubular jacquard, a body can be fitted into the big space between front and back part of fabric and seams can be made of small patterns of jacquard fabric. The silhouette, the drape and the result of the garment of this experiment are different from the ordinary outfit. Therefore, the study to find a new way of design and manufacturing should go on to suggest a different form and method.