• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.231-252
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• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2004

Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권9호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2012

미디어 아트는 새로운 경로의 인식과 지각을 동반하고, 기존의 미술과는 다른 인간의 신체를 도구화 하여 상호작용을 만들어내는 새로운 감상방식을 제안한다. 시각적인 영상을 제작하는 방식 중 포인트 클라우드는 점으로 형태를 표현한다는 점에 있어 서양미술의 점묘법과 유사하며 이는 전통회화 기법을 디지털 기술을 활용해 재구성한다는 의미를 가진다. 본 논문에서는 미학적 요소와 디지털 기술을 융합한 새로운 감상방식으로 포인트 클라우드 형태의 영상을 제작하여 홀로그램 필름에 투사하고, 관람자의 손짓이 영상과 상호작용하는 콘텐츠를 제시한다. 콘텐츠 제작은 콘텐츠 제작 배경 의도를 기획하고 포인트 클라우드 형태의 이미지 제작, 상호작용을 위한 3D 제스처 디자인 과정을 거쳐 최종적으로 홀로그램 필름에 투사하는 과정을 거친다. 콘텐츠는 사람의 의식 속에서 일어나는 기억의 회상 과정을 시각적, 체감적으로 표현한다. 이를 위해 기억의 회상 과정을 불확실한 기억, 기억의 구체화, 완전한 회상으로 설정하였다. 불확실한 기억은 포인트 클라우드 형태의 이미지를 통해 모호한 형태의 이미지로 표현되고, 상호작용으로 이미지를 조작하는 행위를 통해 기억을 구체화 해 나가면서 완전한 회상을 하게 된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.475-487
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.7-29
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• 2009

In understranding the essence of the Korea traditional Architecture, it is important to consider the jointing methods of architectural members, architectural technologies, etc. Especially the purpose of this study is understanding on the Jointing Method of Wooden Members in the period of Unified Silla Architecture. It's conclusion is summarized as follows. 1. A section of column has very close to do with the foundation stone. The structures of foundation stone and column are generally concluded by butt joint, arrow-head joint, housed joint by Grang-e method. Judu is structured by arrow-head joint And, in general, beam is structured by Sagaematchum Chumcha and sagaljudu of Don direction. At the head of Pyungju and the body of Goju, Changbang is structed by Jangbumachum with arrow-head joint or by jumukchang-machum. Also, it is surmised that Gyisoseum and Anssolim methods had been applied to columns from former ages. The example can be found at Bagjae Mireuksaji stone pagoda. Bagjae Mireuksaji stone pagoda taking wooden-pagoda form adopts Gyisoseum and Anssolim methods. We can also find such a sort of methods from other stone constructions like Budo, etc. 2. Injahwaban is structured by short Changbumachum with arrowed-head joint at upper members, and by Anjangmachum at the lower part. This sort of Gongpo style can be seen in the mural painting of tomb of Koguryo and in Buplyungsa, Buplyunsa, Bupkisa-located in Japan, which are influenced by Bakjae or Unified Silla. It is considered that at the end of the late United Silla, Injawhaban had been replaced with Chumcha and Soro on the Pyungbang under influence of Dapo style from China.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.241-247
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• 2020

16세기에 말에 들어 해부학의 중심지로 부상한 네덜란드 레이던에서는 시민들을 위한 해부학 극장이 개관되었다. 새롭게 시작된 인체 해부 활동은 의학의 발전에 기여했음은 물론이고, 시민들을 청중으로 하여 진행된 공개 해부 시연은 해부 관람이 하나의 고급문화 활동으로 자리 잡게 만들었다. 레이던에서 시작된 해부에 대한 대중의 관심은 암스테르담으로까지 퍼졌고, 17세기 네덜란드의 대표 화가 렘브란트의 작품 <튈프 박사의 해부학 강의>에서 직접 해부를 수행하고 있는 모습으로 등장하는 주인공 튈프는 그러한 변화의 중심에 위치했던 인물이었다. 튈프는 의사이자 의료 행정 개혁가로도 큰 업적을 남겼고, 그의 해부 강연은 암스테르담에서 큰 인기를 끌었다. 해부 강연에 의해 인체 해부는 징그러운 광경이 아니라 문화 시민이라면 충분히 관심을 가질만한 행위로 받아들여지게 되었고, 렘브란트가 작품의 주제로 튈프가 시체를 해부하고 있는 광경을 선택한 데에는 이러한 배경이 있었다. 렘브란트는 이러한 시민들의 생각의 변화를 읽어내고 화폭에 담아내면서 과학과 예술의 융합을 시도했던 것이다.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제12권9호
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

본 연구는 아직 잘 알려지지 않은 고려말 조선초의 상류층 여성복식을 고증하여 구체관절인형의상 세트를 시험제작하고 한국 문화상품의 아름다움을 알리기 위한 것이다. 고려말 조선초의 상류층 여성복식은 풍성한 실루엣, 원과 명 복식과의 융합, 옛 고려풍의 부활, 발달한 모시 직조기술, 불교문화 복식이라는 특성을 가진다. 13-14C의 문헌과 유물과 회화를 통한 연구자의 고증과 패턴제작 과정을 거쳐 총 8점의 아이템이 외주제작되었다. 각 아이템은 세트로 구성되었으나 소비자가 단품으로 선택할 수 있으며 다양한 조합이 가능하다. 인체와 특성이 다른 구체관절인형의 바디로 인해 부분적으로 다아트와 작은 고름이 첨가되고 강직한 직물이 사용되었다. 이후로는 기성품 생산을 위한 업체 시스템 개발 연구가 필요하다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.81-94
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• 2023

Haeju was home to the Hwanghae-do Provincial Office and a hub for supporting the northwestern regions of Korea. Local commerce expanded in Haeju during the late Joseon period based on its abundant resources and regional products, leading it to evolve into a large city. King Seonjo temporarily resided in Haeju while seeking refuge from the Japanese Invasions of Korea, and Yi Yi (sobriquet: Yulgok) secluded himself in Seokdam in Haeju in his later years. King Seonjo's residence in Haeju and Yi Yi's retirement there boosted interest in the city among the literati and influenced its places of scenic beauty. The development of its local history and literary achievements were documented in a wide variety of historical records and visual materials. Eight scenic views in Haeju became famous through a poem written by Seong Su-ik in the late sixteenth century. Around the mid-eighteenth century, eight new scenic views became popular. Local officials and travelers from other regions produced a vast body of prose and poetry focusing on the landscape and society of Haeju, playing a crucial role in raising awareness of its scenic attractions. Most surviving visual materials related to Haeju were created in and after the nineteenth century. Many of them illustrate both landscapes and the everyday lives of people. Among them, paintings of scenic spots created by Jeong Seon (sobriquet: Gyeomjae), who never actually visited Haeju in person, raises some of the issues posed by relying on indirect materials. In contrast, Eight Scenic Views of Haeju, which is presumed to have been produced by a local painter, appears to have accurately highlighted the characteristics of each scenic spot. Moreover, Haejudo, a folding screen presenting a panoramic view of Haeju, incorporates content from paintings depicting eight scenic views, in this case Eight Scenic views of Haeju. This practice can be observed in visual materials of other provincial cities.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.