• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The study is to provide basic data on improving costume's fitting by developing physical integrated Basic Bodice Block's development for body types of adult women, which is based on setting up body-type information per truncus as fundamental of adult women's top product manufacture in being ready for Mass Customization era. Also, after review on the objectivity and accuracy of fitting information by real wear and virtual wear experiment on body types, not only 3D virtual clothing system was used as way of information provider of Clothing product, but also provided as basic data in order to use effectively on portion of clothing passion in responding to trend of Mass customization in advance. The consequence of the study is as followings. After analyzing significance differences per items on real and virtual wear evaluation, bowed type of type 1 had significance differences on waist measurement and hip circumference in back and side, which would be knowing as not integrated with costume, affecting form of human body according to virtual wear system bended on back region. Also, in side evaluation, every types except straight body type of type 3 appeared significant differences. In virtual wear evaluation, costume's expression with side body types were not similar to real wear until now except straight body types. It would be improvement things from 3D virtual wear system in advance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 2009

In this study, we tried to verify the effectiveness of 3D scans of clothed participants from 20 to 24 year old men in fit analysis process. Carrying out fit analysis, we used 3D scan data and direct fit evaluation with the basic garments made as semi-fitted bodice pattern for men. The result of fit evaluation through 3D scan data showed the expert rated fitting items more positive than direct fit evaluation. Even though, generally there was a no significant difference in the response between 3D and direct fit analysis. Only there was a significant difference in the response to the specific place such as the center front line, neckline, shoulder seam, and etc. There was a no significant difference between the result of 3D scan and direct fit evaluation in the subjects' group. Also the result of assessment of 3D targeting consumers showed very positive and interested in using 3D scans for fit analysis. The ability to rotate the 3D scans for a variety of views proved to be a very effective process to analyze fit. Moreover, digital data is easily accessed at any locations and any time. Fit analysis using 3D scans could be great tool for not only fit evaluation in research but also better fitting in apparel industry.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes brought by the upper body form using a three-dimensional human body measurement the gypsum method. The developed plane figure was constructed using paper replica to analyze the dimensional shape of the upper torso and to be able to design clothes suitable for elderly women's physical characteristics. The characteristics are analyzed and compared with existing patterns in order to extract the components for the pattern design. The examination was carried out based on the developed plane figures of upper body surface replicas. Type 1, the bent-forward body form, has a wide gap on the shoulder. In Type 2, the gap of waist line was wide at angulus scapulae point. Type 3 was the thin body form, and the girth of the chest, front interscye breadth and back interscye breadth were more level with one another, compared to the other types. In Type 4, the bent-backward body form, there was a wide gap on front shoulder. Comparison with the developed plane figure and existed pattern, items revealed differences in significance included the front and back interscye width between the measured values of the existed patterns and the developed plane figure. Therefore, the basic components of basic bodice pattern for old women were determined in the up-bust circumference and length of the back.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.117-126
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• 2020

In this study, a 3D simulation program was used to produce a bodice prototype of a middle-aged male in their 40s and 50s and then analyze the appearance evaluation and airgap, sectional view, color distribution through virtual wearing to compare and analyze the differences between patterns. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for pattern development to companies that manufacture and produce clothing for middle-aged men. As a result of analyzing, J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable body shape pattern for middle-aged men. E pattern was too tight and L pattern and N pattern had too much spaces. However, J patternt was analyzed that correction was necessary in setting center back and center front length. The aging phenomenon in which the back is slightly bent forward and shoulders are also inclined is expected to appear, so it is necessary to adjust the front-to-back length, shoulder angle, and shoulder length. It is considered that after developing the research pattern by modifying J pattern, it is necessary to develop a body shape prototype for middle-aged men through actual clothing experiments on middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.12
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to each sensory test of the frontal view, back view, side view and silhouette Block Pattern I is the best of them in summation of the sensory tests score. Block, Pattern D and I have good shape too. However the best block Pattern D shows good score in evaluation of overall fitness and silhouette. 2. Most of block patterns, which show high scores in sensory tests, are the Compromise Method taking merits of the Proportional Method and Short Measure Method among the Pattern Drafting Methods. Box-shape patterns show low score in the sensory tests. 3. Regarding to the number of measurement, the patterns of the Compromise Method using 6-8 measurements seem to be optimal. In degree of fitness, loose fit type basic patterns are better than other patterns from a viewpoint of the total satisfaction.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2007

The object of this research was to observe the female college 220 students of aged 19-24 for four years and to examine somatotypes distribution; this research intends to contribute to the fitness of clothes by studying the body distribution that affects the clothing structure. The measurement and wearing experiment for somatotypes are done years annually. The average, standard deviation and coefficient of variation was calculated by the SAS program. The research results are as follows: The three somatotypes of side view silhouette (straight type, bend-forward type, lean-back type) showed fairly even distribution. As a result of dressing experiment with the basic bodice pattern, the most influential factor on its suitability was found to be the neck area, shoulder and ease of bodice respectively. The partial body types to observe were categorized as: shoulder(normal, slope, squared), bust(A cup, B cup, C cup), hips (normal, droop, projecting). As for the result for full body type by BMI, normal type was most dominant, and for the categorization by drop, the type A which is with small breasts and large hips was most prevalent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.17-26
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• 1985

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice pattern drafting method for Korean elderly women over sixty years old on the basis of their physical characteristics which differ from those of adult women. The study is composed as follows; 1. One hundred and five elderly women were measured on 20 items. Twenty-five items including 20 measured items and 5 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. A new method was developed based on the results of data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through three fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern for elderly women by comparing it with the conventional pattern for adult women. A five-point rating scale was developed for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant differences (a$\leqq$0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.