• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.147-154
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• 1999

A Numerical model is developed in order to predict cross-shore beach profile change. In this model it is assumed that sediment transport is generated by waves(bed load transport suspended load transport) and undertow which is defined as offshore directional steady flow in the surf zone. In addition wave tank experiments which reproduce storm-surge were performed. By comparing resulting profile of calculation with experiments, the applicability of this method is verified.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2003

The changes of beach profile with a natural longshore bar and beach profile with a fixed artificial bar are studied, respectively, using a numerical model. The quasi three dimensional wave-current-sediment transport model is applied with an addition of boundary condition for sediment transport on the artificial structure under water. The study shows that the natural bar adapts itself to the change of coastal physical environment by adjusting its location but the fixed artificial bar causes the formation of a second natural bar seaward of the fixed bar and scouring at the rear of the fixed bar. This study can be applied to work on the change of beach profile with submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.55-60
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• 2000

This paper is descried the experimental results of beach process including storm surge and beach recovery. By testing different surge levels and durations, effects of these to shoreline change were evaluated. In addition of beach recovery were investigated experimentally. On the other hand, we proposed the method, which can be applicable to complex hydrograph such as storm surge by modifying equation proposed by Kriebel and Dean. Moreover, applicability of this method is verified by comparing computing result with experiments.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1983

The wave and hydrologic climate at a beach location are everchanging and coastal engineers have always been interested in the deformation of the natural beach caused by wave action over short or long interval of time. The drift of sand on a beach particulary manifests itself when blocked construction of seawalls, jetties, breakerwaters and groins etc.${\cdots}$ For this reason, the understanding and evaluation of littoral drift has been especially important to the coastal engineers. The resulting of the sand drift movement, such as the type of beach profile, width of beach, storage volume of the littoral sand over the profile are rapid everchange. We have studied the geological changes due to the littoral drift on a beach with field investigation and model tests in laboratory. But, it is impossible to make quantative correct analysis because of the factors are everchange and complicate. And then, most of study are incline to qualitative analysis. In this paper, authors studied mainly on the transition of beach profile and sediment storage on the profile using statistical field data as qualitative analytical method. The used theoretical beach transition model by Sonu and Beek have developed to obtain the change of HAEUNDAE beach backed with seawall. Results of this study indicate that the transition model are useful in the analysis of beach profile changement and the littoral drift movement on the beach. Qualitative analysises for HAEUNDAE beach are as follows. 1) Transition sequence of profile has 4 major transition for one cycle. 2) Storage sediment model of beach profile by Sonu and Beek well coincided with HAEUNDAE beach. 3) Seasonal cycle has ill-balanced process for the 5-yr. investigation.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.283-296
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to analyze the short-term changes of beach and dune morphology at Hwajin beach, Korea using by terrestrial LIDAR. Based on ArcInfo as point cloud obtained through precise analyzing studying area twice (1st : Sep 1. 2010, 2nd : Oct 2nd. 2010) by terrestrial LIDAR, alteration of beach and dune was analyzed at DEM, of which cell size is about 10cm. Consequently, during the studying period, coastlines at studying area moved backward and reduced the area of coastal zone. In a section change, the north beach moved backward with more eroded beach face and the middle section of south beach moved forward with more deposited beach face. Considering all the section changes of beach at studying area, beach section during the 1st measurement period can be defined as a summer profile, and it can be explained that the temporary storm profile was formed by the strong wave created during studying period. As a result of analyzing the alteration of beach area by terrestrial LIDAR, alteration of narrow area was able to be analyzed in detail by class of 'centimeter' and the time was able to be shortened.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.244-252
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• 2014

EOF (Empirical Orthogonal Function) analysis is applied to investigate the sand movement in Hujeong Beach. For the analysis, the profile data which were observed five times from June 2009 to May 2010 along the 13 baselines were used. To secure the temporal and physical consistency among the 13 profile data, the 13 profile data were combined into one data and using this data the EOF analysis was performed. According to the analysis, the first EOF is related with the mean topography and the second EOF represents the natural variation of sediment migration and the third EOF is related with the along-shore sediment transport arising from storm. The remaining EOFs show no special relation with wave conditions. In conclusion the main factors which are having great effects on Hujeong Beach's sand movement are analyzed as natural variation and along-shore sediment transport owing the wave conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.147-164
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• 2015

This study analyzed characteristics and tendencies of seasonal change on shoreline and beach with 8 beaches at East Sea coast by topographical survey for 2 years from March 2012 to February 2013. The shorelines of East Sea coast appeared that amount of seasonal change was bigger than amount of annual change. The seasonal change tendencies between Gangwon-do and Gyeongsangbuk-do coast areas existed some regional differences. To synthesize seasonal changes on 8 beaches of East Sea coast, shoreline advance and beach deposit showed clearly in summer and shoreline retreat and beach erosion showed clearly in autumn. This result is different from tendencies of seasonal change in many mid-latitude coast areas of the world, but generally corresponds with reference studies in west coast and east coast. The major factor of beach erosion showing mostly in summer is storm wave caused by typhoon. The beach erosion by storm wave also occurred in late winter. And it assumes that the beach deposit showing mostly in autumn is result of equilibrium processes of coast area against strong erosion in summer.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• Water for future
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 1986

This research was carried out to decide both in the field and the laboratory the similarity between the erosion and the accretion in the change of the beach profile. The results obtained were as follows: (1) It was impossible to decide only by C value the similarity between the erosion and the accretion of the actual beach by application of Horikawa's theory. (2) It was difficult to decide the similarity only by values of $H_//L_0$ formula. (3) Observation of dimensionless value of $H_//L_0$ and C, $H_//L_0$ and $L_{sr}$ in the field and the laboratory showed that there was a similarity between the erosion and the accretion which set in at 0.024 of $H_//L_0$. (4) The Knowlege of the wave steepness would help to discriminate the erosion and the accretion.