• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1983

The wave and hydrologic climate at a beach location are everchanging and coastal engineers have always been interested in the deformation of the natural beach caused by wave action over short or long interval of time. The drift of sand on a beach particulary manifests itself when blocked construction of seawalls, jetties, breakerwaters and groins etc.${\cdots}$ For this reason, the understanding and evaluation of littoral drift has been especially important to the coastal engineers. The resulting of the sand drift movement, such as the type of beach profile, width of beach, storage volume of the littoral sand over the profile are rapid everchange. We have studied the geological changes due to the littoral drift on a beach with field investigation and model tests in laboratory. But, it is impossible to make quantative correct analysis because of the factors are everchange and complicate. And then, most of study are incline to qualitative analysis. In this paper, authors studied mainly on the transition of beach profile and sediment storage on the profile using statistical field data as qualitative analytical method. The used theoretical beach transition model by Sonu and Beek have developed to obtain the change of HAEUNDAE beach backed with seawall. Results of this study indicate that the transition model are useful in the analysis of beach profile changement and the littoral drift movement on the beach. Qualitative analysises for HAEUNDAE beach are as follows. 1) Transition sequence of profile has 4 major transition for one cycle. 2) Storage sediment model of beach profile by Sonu and Beek well coincided with HAEUNDAE beach. 3) Seasonal cycle has ill-balanced process for the 5-yr. investigation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.209-220
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• 2019

Even though the scale of hard structures for beach stabilization should carefully be determined such that these structures do not interrupt the great yearly circulation process of beach sediment in which the self-healing ability of natural beach takes places, massive hard structures such as the submerged breakwater of wide-width are frequently deployed as the beach stabilization measures. On this rationale, asymmetric ripple mat by Irie et al. (1994) can be the alternatives for beach stabilization due to its small scale to replace the preferred submerged breaker of wide-width. The effectiveness of asymmetric ripple mat is determined by how effectively the vortices enforced at the contraction part of flow area over the mat traps the sediment moving toward the offshore by the run-down. In order to verify this hypothesis, we carry out the numerical simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equation and the physically-based morphology model. Numerical results show that the asymmetric ripple mat effectively capture the sediment by forced vortex enforced at the apex of asymmetric ripple mat, and bring these trapped sediments back to the beach, which has been regarded to be the driving mechanism of beach stabilization effect of asymmetric ripple mat.

• The Journal of Fisheries Business Administration
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.79-101
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to estimate the economic value of the Songieong Beach in Off-season, using a Individual Travel Cost Model(ITCM). Songieong Beach is located in Busan but far away from city. These days, however, the increased rate of traffic inflow to the Songieong beach and the five-day working week are reflected in the trend analysis. Moreover, people have changed psychological value. For that reason, visitors are on the increase on the beach in off-season. The ITCM is applied to estimate non-market value or environmental Good like a Contingent Valuation Method and Hedonic Price Model etc. The ITCM was derived from the Count Data Model(i.e. Poisson and Negative Binomial model). So this paper compares Poisson and negative binomial count data models to measure the tourism demands. The data for the study were collected from the Songjeong Beach on visitors over the a week from November 1 through November 23, 2006. Interviewers were instructed to interview only individuals. So the sample was taken in 113. A dependent variable that is defined on the non-negative integers and subject to sampling truncation is the result of a truncated count data process. This paper analyzes the effects of determinants on visitors' demand for exhibition using a class of maximum-likelihood regression estimators for count data from truncated samples, The count data and truncated models are used primarily to explain non-negative integer and truncation properties of tourist trips as suggested by the economic valuation literature. The results suggest that the truncated negative binomial model is improved overdispersion problem and more preferred than the other models in the study. This paper is not the same as the others. One thing is that Estimating Value of the Beach in off-season. The other thing is this study emphasizes in particular 'travel cost' that is not only monetary cost but also including opportunity cost of 'travel time'. According to the truncated negative binomial model, estimates the Consumer Surplus(CS) values per trip of about 199,754 Korean won and the total economic value was estimated to be 1,288,680 Korean won.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.203-210
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• 2018

It is generally known that submerged breakwaters can reduce the incoming wave energy without disturbing the beach scenery. However, a submerged breakwater is also able to cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area which is also called as water piling-up. Since the piling-up can result in longshore currents, sediment transports, and unexpected beach erosion, understanding about the piling-up process is required prior to designing the nearshore structures. In this study, the water piling-up behind a submerged breakwater is assessed in the time of storm events. For the study area, Anmok beach in Gyeonso-dong, Gangwon-do is selected. 1-year, 5-year, 10-year, and 50-year return-values were derived from Peaks-Over-Threshold(POT) method and those are applied as offshore boundary conditions for the numerical simulation. The numerical results of the piling-up were assessed with regard to the wave steepness and the height of the submerged breakwater. With increase of both significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater, the piling-up parameter is also increased which can lead to erosion of dry beach behind the structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Earth Science Education
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.110-120
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• 2020

It is generally reported that field learning and a class using regional materials motivate learning and give a positive effect on learning of geology unit, science subject. The purpose of this study is to develop and to suggest regional materials for learning of geology unit, science subject at Jaeundo. The results of this study are as follows. Regional materials were developed at three locations (namjin dockyard area, yangsan beach area and dunjang beach area) of the study area. Namjin dockyard area (A site) is composed of terrain of sea cliff, sand beach and mud flat. Sedimentary rocks, weathering phenomenon of rocks and strata of various shape are distributed in sea cliff of A site. Yangsan beach area (B site) is composed of coastal terrain as sea cliff and sand beach about 1.5km long. Sedimentary rocks and rhyolite are distributed in sea cliff of B site. Tafoni formed by weathering process of rocks are developed on sedimentary rock outcrop of B site. Dunjang beach area (C site) is composed of coastal terrain of sea cliff, sand beach about 2km long and sea stack. Stratified sedimentary rocks are distributed in sea cliff of C site. Sea stack located in near halmi island on the west side of dunjang beach area is a good sample showing erosion process of sea cave for a long time. Unique geomorphology and geology phenomena distributed in 3 sites at Jaeundo can be used as regional materials for learning of geology unit, science subject. And, Regional materials shall be used in conjunction with the text book data of geology units. These 3 sites of the study area are worth using as field learning course for elementary and middle school students.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.85-92
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• 2020

This study adopted soil test and laboratory physical model experiments to simulate the tailings impoundment accumulation process according to the principle of similarity. Relying on the practical engineering, it analyzed the tailings deposition characteristics on dry beach surface during the damming process, as well as the variation rules of dam saturation line. Results suggested that, the tailings particles gradually became finer along the dry beach surface to inside the impoundment. The particle size suddenly changed at the junction between the deposited beach and the water surface, which displayed an obvious coarsening phenomenon. Besides, the deposited beach exhibited the vertical feature of coarse upward and fine downward on the whole. Additionally, in the physical model, the saturation line elevated with the increase in dam height, and its amplitude was relatively obvious within the range of 1.0-4.5 m away from the initial dam. Under flood condition, the saturation line height was higher than that under normal condition on the whole, with the maximum height difference of 4 cm. This study could provide an important theoretical basis for further studies on dam failure experiments and the evolution rules of leaked tailings flow.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1993

The shingle beach as a typical pocket beach located in Jeongdo-ri, Wando, Cheolanam-do, Korea has been investigated in terms of textural characteristics, mainly gravel shape and roundness. In the Jeongdo-ri gravel beach, changes of beach profile after storm weather and textural parameters of gravels were observed and measured from May 1992 to March 1993. Beach profile is divided into two different Fair-weather zone and Storm-weather zone influenced by dynamic condition of wave energy. The former is affected by wave and tide under fair-weather condition, the latter seems to be formed under storm-weather condition. Each zone comprises a series of beach faces and berms formed by continuous sedimentary processes of swash, overwash and backwash. Storm-weather zone is subdivided into three groups having a pair of beach face and berm respectively. Mean sizes of berm gravel(45.5 mm -123.6 mm) are coarser than gravels of beach face (36.8 mm - 78.3 mm) in fair-weather zone. On the other hand, in storm-weather zone, gravels of berms (33.1 mm -82.5 mm) are finer than those of beachfaces (46.2 mm - 105.2 mm). The proportion of disc shaped gravels of berm (50.0% - 58.5 %) is higher than that of beachface (45.9 % - 51.3 %) in each subzone except C-group of storm-weather zone. And the proportion of the equant shaped gravel increases about up to 10% seaward. Therefore, shore-normal distribution of gravels seems to be affected by shape and size sorting effects. Shore-parallel distribution pattern of gravel shape is more distinctive than size distribution patterns. That is, disc and blade shaped particles decrease up to 20% and 13% respectively, and equants increase up to 34% to the westward. Gravels plotted on Sneed and Folk's triangular diagram are more compacted and elongated with decreasing size. Therefore primary gravels are shaped by characteristics of country rock e.g. cleavage, joint etc., and secondary are affected by sorting and size-controlled process evolution by wave action.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.