• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Proceedings of KOSOMES biannual meeting
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• 2017.04a
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• pp.265-265
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• 2017

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.82-90
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• 2021

Owing to the advantages of assuring the best views and seawater exchange, submerged breakwaters have been widely installed along the eastern coast of Korea in recent years. It significantly contributes to promoting the advancement of shorelines by partially inhibiting incident wave energy. Observations were carried out by a pressure-type wave gauge in the Bongpo Beach to evaluate the coefficients of wave transmission via a submerged breakwater, and the results obtained were compared with those of existing conventional equations on the transmission coefficient derived from hydraulic experiments. After reviewing the existing equations, we proposed a transmission coefficient equation in terms of an error function. Although it exhibited robust relationships with the crest height and breaking coefficient, deviations from the observed data were evident and considered to be triggered by the difference in the incident wave climate. Therefore, in this study, we conducted a numerical experiment to verify the influence of wave period on the coefficients of wave transmission, in which we adopted a parabolic-type mild-slope equation model. Consequently, the deviation from calculated results appears to practically cover all deviation range in the observed data. The wave period and direction of the incident wave increased, the transmission coefficient decreased, and the wave direction was determined to demonstrate a relatively significant influence on the transmission coefficient. It was inferred that this numerical study is expected to be used practically in evaluating the design achievement of the submerged breakwater, which is adopted as a countermeasure to coastal beach erosion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.527-535
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• 2016

The Manseongri Coast meets the sea on the southeast and is composed of coarse sediment as a mesotidal beach. The waves that strike the beach are stronger than the tides or tidal currents as external forces of beach deformation. Storm waves frequently reach significant wave heights of 2-3m and hit in spring and summer, leaving the sea calm during fall and winter. Incident waves reach remarkable heights that correspond with observed shoreline changes. The shoreline erodes in spring and summer due to these strong waves but recovers in fall and winter as a result of the more moderate waves. On the basis of these observed results, a numerical calibration for experiments on shoreline change was established. Results revealed that according to hindcast data, calculated shoreline changes agreed with the observed shoreline, with a minimum RMS error of 1.26m with calibration parameters $C_1=0.2$ and $C_2=1C_1$. Using these calibration parameters, long-term shoreline change was predicted after the construction of submerged breakwaters and jetties, etc. The numerical model showed that the shoreline would move forward by 5-15m behind the submerged breakwaters and recede by 5-15m north of the structure.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.345-354
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• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.201-207
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• 1997

Most of small harbours are suffering serious harbour siltation problems in the eastern coast of Korea. Also, many of them necessitate maintenance dredging every year. In order to solve these problems, we have to predict the amount of previous harbour siltation. In the present study, numerical prediction of the harbour siltation has been accomplished using numerical model of 3D beach deformation around a structure. And, also the validity of the model has been confirmed by the field investigation.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.18-24
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• 2010

Submerged rubble structures include artificial reef and the mound part of the rubble mound breakwater. Artificial reef is a type of the submerged wave absorbing structure installed in a coastal zone to prevent beach erosion and designed to initially reduce the energy of incoming waves so that its run-up height and overtopping quantity can be decreased. In order to ascertain the stability of such submerged rubble structures, minimum weight of the rubble has to be calculated first from the incoming wave height using Hudson's formula or Brebner-Donnelly formula. Based on the calculated minimum weight, a model is built for use in a hydraulic model test carried out to check its stability. The foregoing two formulas used to calculate the minimum weight are empirically derived formulas based on the result of the tests on the rubble mound breakwater and it is, therefore, difficult for us to apply them directly in the calculation of the minimum weight of the submerged structures. Accordingly, this study comes up with a numerical simulation method capable of deformation analysis for rubble structures. This study also tries to identify the deformation mechanism of the submerged rubble structures using the numerical simulation. The method researched through this study will be sufficient for use for usual preparations of the design guidelines for submerged rubble structures.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of the Korean Association of Geographic Information Studies
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.186-195
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• 2005

Topography of beach line is keeping stability for several years, their soil values have been maintained in balances. Install of coastal structures have caused deformation for beaches and acted as a function to structures. Therefore, quantitative prediction of beaches topography according to structure install is required to prevent the beaches deformation and progress proper coastal preservation work. In this study, we analyzed coastal changes caused by erosion and accretion according to development and drew up a cross-section to share 8 stations using coordinates and depth surveying in groin of Soheuksan island port. Elevation distribution and changes by observation period is calculated -0.30m~+0.20m after comparing results of five months in October 7, 2004 surveying results and fell into insignificance. We thinks periodic observation of coastal erosion and accretion take place for the season and long-term coastal changes in beaches width is analyzed.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1221-1230
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• 2008

Inflatable rubber dams are used for controlling flood, impounding water for recreations, preventing beach erosions, diverting water for irrigations, and generating hydropower. They are long, flexible, inflated with air, cylindrical structures on a rigid horizontal foundation such as concrete. The dam is modeled as an elastic shell inflated with air. The mechanical behaviors of the inflated dam model were investigated by using the finite element method. The analysis process such as One Way Coupling Fluid-Structure Interaction consists of two steps. First, the influences of the fluid side were investigated, viz, the shape changes of the inflated rubber dam due to the fluid motions was captured when the height of the dam was 30cm with air pressure 0.01MPa, at which the pressure distributions over the surface of the dam were calculated. And next, the structural deformations were calculated using the pressure distributions. The initial inlet velocity for flow field was set to 0.1m/s. The structural deformation behaviors were investigated. The final research goal is to develop a Korean Inflatable Rubber Dam to be used for generating small hydropower.