• Title/Summary/Keyword: Baji

Search Result 47, Processing Time 0.019 seconds

A Study of fatten Making of Hanbok Baji by Computer - for man's clothing - (컴퓨터에 의한 한복 남자바지 원형의 자동제도에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon Mee-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.13 no.2 s.30
    • /
    • pp.146-154
    • /
    • 1989
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

  • PDF

A Study on the Construction of Pungcha Baji - Focusing on the Books Entitled "Hanbok Construction" - (풍차바지 제도에 관한 연구 - 한복구성학 책을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Chung-Ho
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.59 no.1
    • /
    • pp.159-167
    • /
    • 2009
  • Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

A Study on the Men's Trousers in the Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 남자바지에 관한 연구)

  • 구남옥
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.52 no.7
    • /
    • pp.45-55
    • /
    • 2002
  • This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women's pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men's pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn't show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (the pants opened low parts). which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO. and the pants were designed not to show out. it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636. changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes. the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style. The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women's only as men's pants become SAPOK-BAJI.

A Study on the Ritual Clothing in Birth around Chonnam Area (전남지역 출생 의례복식의 현지조사 고찰)

  • 추은희;김용서
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
    • /
    • v.6 no.1
    • /
    • pp.35-44
    • /
    • 2003
  • In Anthropology, ceremonies which human should pass in lives are difined as ‘Rites of Passage’. Each Rite has its own Clothing style, which is little different from general Clothing in shape, composition, color, meaning, etc. This Study shows composition and characters on Birth Ceremony Clothing through Documents and Survey around Chonnam Area. Survey Area is subdivided into 3 parts : Koksung(A Basin of Sumjin River-Eastern Area of Chonnam), Na-ju( A Basin of Yeongsan River-Western Area of Chonnam), and Kangjin(Southern Area of Chonnam). This Study analyses characters on Baenaet Jogori, 100th-day Clothing and First-birthday Clothing in Chonnam Area. In case of Baenaet Jogori, its shape in Survey is similiar to that of documents. In case of 100th-day Clothing, New Jogori and Baji have been made usually. First-Birthday(called “Dol”) Clothing shows difference between male and female infant. Male clothing consists of Pungcha Baji, Jokki, Magoja, Doltti while Female clothing consists of Pungcha Baji, Chima, Jumoni, and Doltti. In making of infant Clothing, 5-colors(Blue. Red, Yellow, White, Black) which consists of basic color in the Theory of the cosmic dual forces and Shape of Letters such as 壽ㆍ福ㆍ亞ㆍ卍 are used usually. This kind of colors and Shape of letters symbolize longevity and fortune. As a result of study, I find what Ritual Clothing in Birth has many symbolic meaning which reflects life-style culture. This study lay meaning on that deals infant clothings as a kind of Ritual Clothing.

  • PDF

An Analysis of Types of the First Birthday Hanbok on the Internet Shopping Mall (인터넷 쇼핑몰에 판매되는 돌 한복의 유형 분석)

  • Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.63 no.3
    • /
    • pp.110-123
    • /
    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.

Low-Level Officials' Costumes as Illustrated in Tamna-Sullyeokdo at the Era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty (조선 숙종조 탐라순력도를 통해 본 하급관원 복식)

  • Lee, Joo-Young;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.57 no.6 s.115
    • /
    • pp.172-183
    • /
    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

A Study on Basic Costume Appearing in Genre Paintings from the Late 17th Century to the Early 18th Century : focused upon Works of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho (17C말~18C초 풍속화에 나타나는 복식에 관한 연구 - 윤두서, 조영석 작품 중심으로 -)

  • 최은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.8 no.6
    • /
    • pp.915-929
    • /
    • 2000
  • As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.

  • PDF

A Study on the Present Monk′s Costume of the Korean Buddhist -Focusing on Jokye and Taego Sects- (한국불교 현행 승복에 관한 연구 -조계종과 태고종을 중심으로-)

  • 이은숙;김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.2 no.1
    • /
    • pp.77-91
    • /
    • 1994
  • The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.

  • PDF

The Production Method for Recreating the Historical Costume of Civil Official Yi Seung-hyu from the Late Goryeo -Focusing on Everyday Attire- (고려 후기 문신(文臣) 이승휴(李承休)의 영정복식 재현 제작 방법 -편복(便服)을 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.46 no.1
    • /
    • pp.147-164
    • /
    • 2022
  • The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.12 no.6 s.53
    • /
    • pp.1060-1069
    • /
    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

  • PDF