• 제목/요약/키워드: Avant-garde

검색결과 268건 처리시간 0.032초

파코 라반 복식의 조형적 특성에 영향을 미친 요인 (Some Factors of Influence on Paco Rabanne`s Fashion Design)

  • 최영옥
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제7권5호
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    • pp.122-139
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    • 1999
  • Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various factors, including some major artistic movements, which influenced on the formative characteristics of Paco Rabanne\`s fashion design. First, Paco Rabanne\`s fantastic new materials is also influenced by his study in architecture and his own fantasies -which other people can hardly imagine- during his early childhood. Second, light one of the most important element in Paco Ranbanne\`s fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Third, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne\`s fashion include surrealism, opart, and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant -garde style represents the influence of surrealism. his experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with opart and kinetic art in the early 1960s which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Fourth, the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles represent the influence of Egyptian architecture like pyramids and the geometrical characteristics of Eguptian art. Fifth, Paco Rabanne\`s distinctive use of metal chains in his fashion shows the influence of the chain mail hauberk, the medieval knightly armour. By using the medieval material Paco Rabanne properly expressed the modern person\`s pain and suffering. Sixth, the ethnic elements of Egypt, Africa, Spain, and Japan reflect the experience in his former lives he insists he lived. The ethnic elements of his dresses emphasize the natural vitality and inheritance from the past.

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림드 메이크업의 기호해석 패러다임 (A Paradigm for the Semiotical Interpretation of Rimmed Make-up)

  • 김현미;장애란
    • 복식
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    • 제61권10호
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    • pp.32-41
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to prove an importance of systemic analysis paradigm to interpret fashion make-up. This research employed 'paradigm for interpretation of fashion make-up signs' theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) recognition of form, (2) analysis of connotation meanings, and (3) analysis of symbolic meanings and communication. The results of this study were as follows. Jean Paul Gaultier's eye make-up uses a square pattern that mostly consists of the color black. He presents a Glam Rock image by using rimmed make-up that portrays an avant-garde and a nonmainstream culture. Jean Paul Gaultier's make-up was showing black color and square eye pattern and was presenting Glam Rock image and was a rimmed make-up meaning a nonmainstream culture and Avant-garde symbolically. Chanel's make-up emphasizes the eyehole with the rimmed technique by applying the make-up of Marchesa Casati and including non-popularity, Limited Marketing symbolically. Christian Dior's make-up applies the representative make-up of Joan of Arc and Siouxsie sioux and also uses rimmed make-up to portray the meaning of religion persecution, the dark-ages militarism and including Humanism symbolically.

패션이미지에 따른 의복스타일과 헤어스타일의 상관성 (The Correlation between Clothing Style and Hair Style related to Fashion Image)

  • 이효숙;박숙현
    • 한국패션뷰티학회지
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    • 제2권3호
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    • pp.44-59
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to find out proper evaluative words according to fashion image and to identify the correlation between clothing style and hair style related to fashion image. The questionnaire was used to collect data. 326 female aged between 23 to 40 were selected for the subjects of this study. The data were analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, pearsons correlation. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Evaluative words for each fashion image were selected by factor analysis. modern image intellectual, cold, urbane, simple, straight. elegance image : graceful, dignified, refined, decorous, luxurious. romantic image : cute, lovely, girlish, feminine, romantic. natural image : natural, comfortable, gentle, intimate, soft. casual image : energetic, active, free, cheerful, vivid. avant-garde image : experimental, strange, creative, avant-garde, irregular. 2. Correlation between clothing style image and hair style image ; clothing style and hair style was positively correlated. with the same image in case of modern, romantic, casual, elegance and avantgarde but natural image of clothing style was correlated with the natural, elegance, romantic, modern image of hair style. 3. The most suitable hair style for the clothing style according to fashion image : The clothing style of a particular image was matched best with the hair style of the same image.

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바우하우스 무대 미술의 공간 조형성에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Space Design Characteristics of Scenography in Bauhaus)

  • 김일환;김주연;전흥수
    • 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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    • 제29호
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    • pp.77-85
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    • 2001
  • The change of society causes the change of art necessarily. The experiments of plastic art which as been done by avant-garde movements at early 20th century have pursued ″Object drama″ consistently as trials of more or less abstract drama. As these plastic arts have used genre or media like circuses, sports, variate, films, screen play, newspapers and a quick method which had not been considered suitable for conventional aesthetic plastic arts, these arts looked provocative and, these provocative plastic arts have ignored universality shown in conventional arts and have caused extreme ″sensation″ accordingly. As a result, abstract art based on style which is against aestheticism and naturalism has been generalized. This style does not deny customary laws of art wholly but it requires new concept. Having ignored traditional styles, a new compositive and responsive way of composition which does not deviate from tradition has been pursued. A new and general understanding of arts which do not deny all conventionally-effective standards extremely has been developed. In this regard, this study analyzes characteristics of Bauhaus Theater which has tried to apply new technology engineering to plastic art as an integrated concept of art and technology amongst the directions of development of provocation, innovation and revolution in case of the plastic art of stage painting, and analyzes how this influences on modern painting in terms of avant-garde arts reviewing the meaning of this theory.

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미래주의 관점에서 본 론 아라드의 공간 표현에 관한 연구 (A Study on Futuristic Aspects of Ron Arad's Interior Design)

  • 고자경;심은주
    • 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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    • 제17권4호
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    • pp.50-57
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    • 2008
  • Futurism can be defined as a movement in the early 20th century founded by Italian writer Marinetti apposing to traditional and conservative art. Though its life as a movement seemed to be fairly short, it can be said that the very essence of futurism can be seen whenever there is radical change in our society such as the information revolution. Even though the information revolution has brought us many positive improvements our life including art and design, lately there are also discussions about the defects in our life. Ron Arad may be considered as a designer and artist whose intentions and expressions are very similar to those of futurism. This study investigates concepts, meanings, and expressions of futurism in art history and then those of Ron Arad's shown in interior design projects. By examining selected project examples the author defined that rather than optimistic viewpoints, avant-garde and technological aspects were found to be strong in symbolic qualities. As for expressive qualities, dynamism and continuity appeared to be Ron Arad's unique expressions, very similar to those of futurism on the other hand, purity and temporarily were found less. It is hoped that the study may be a help in better understanding futuristic qualities of Ron Arad, one of the radical and experimental designers of our age.

콜하스와 레오니도프 건축의 연관성에 대한 연구 - 기술적, 사회적, 구성적 측면을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Relationship of the Architecture of Leonidov and Koolhaas - Focused on the Technological, Social and Compositional Aspects -)

  • 장용순
    • 대한건축학회논문집:계획계
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    • 제35권4호
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    • pp.93-102
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    • 2019
  • In 1960s Russian avant-garde architects such as Moisei Ginzburg, Konstantin Melnikov and Ivan Leonidov were rediscovered in the western architectural society. In this period Rem Koolhaas investigated the projects of Ivan Leonidov with great enthusiasm. In late 1920s and early 1930s when the hope and fantasy to the social revolution and technology reached the climax, The third generation of Russian avant-garde intended to find the new synthesis of the technology, the form and the social ideology. In this context, Leonidov proposed audacious projects from the small scale to the urban scale in the influence of Malevich's suprematism, Vesnin's technological fantasy and Ginzburg's concept of "social condenser". These projects seriously affected Koolhaas. This relationship of Leonidov and Koolhaas was indicated but not investigated in concrete manner. This study intends to analyze the projects of Leonidov and to investigate the relationship of Leonidov and Koolhaas in Delirious NewYork and in the projects of Koolhaas. We will analyse this relationship in three categories : hedonistic technology, social collectivity and pure geometry.

Requirements of Fashion as Popular Art in Contemporary Culture

  • Seunghee, Suh
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제26권6호
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    • pp.94-104
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the art world's perspective on popular art and the contact point with pure art and to present the requirements of fashion as a popular art. To analyze the artistic value of fashion, this study analyzed and presented the requirements of art by linking the innate characteristics of fashion premised on mass consumption of popular art. The research method consisted of content analysis focusing on books and papers on art and fashion. A critical perspective on expansion of the artistic field amid the blurred boundaries of art is the basis of a critical comparison between popular art and avant-garde art and a critique of popular art as opposed to value-oriented art. Conversely, as a point of contact with popular art with fine art, art is discussed against the ideological strategy of fine art and the shift in hegemony brought about by erosion of the barrier between art and everyday life. In addition, the non-essentialist perspective contradicts the division theory of popular art. The requirements of fashion as a popular art were analyzed based on the value of self-expression through the aesthetic pursuit of creativity and aesthetic expression, discourse as art, and expansion of modern art from the inessentialist perspective of popular art.

Dialectical Images: William Carlos Williams's Avant-Garde Poetry

  • Kim, Hongki
    • 영어영문학
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.445-459
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    • 2010
  • William Carlos Williams discovers important sources of inspiration in the revolutionary avant-garde movements, in particular, Dada and Surrealism and attempted to embody the innovations in them in his poetic theory and practice. Williams's passion to create an indigenous American poetic work is compatible with his Dadaist experimentation with objets trouvés. Williams pays deep attention to objets trouvés, physical objects and marginalized people he comes across and transcribes his observations with poetic words freed from their instrumental contexts. In his characteristic poems written in the 1920s and 1930s, Williams records the social ruination and his task to give voice to the conflictual and fragmentary character of modernity is pursued through the Surrealist formulation of montage. In the Surrealist formulation of montage, the dialectical image is a central trope for reading the myth of modernity; it is positioned as both subject and object in the historiographic narratives of Walter Benjamin and Williams. As Benjamin tries to obliterate all traces of the author in the Arcades Project, Williams's montage poems like Spring and All only disperse argument into materialistic, dialectical images. The dialectical image in Williams's poetics becomes an organon of historical awakening so that truth can emerge from an unmediated juxtaposition of "things."

일제강점기 '전위미술론'의 전통관 연구 - '문장(文章)' 그룹을 중심으로 (A Study on Avant-Garde Fine Art during the period of Japanese Colonial Rule of Korea, centering on 'Munjang' (a literary magazine))

  • 박계리
    • 미술이론과 현장
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    • 제4호
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    • pp.57-76
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    • 2006
  • From the late 1920s to the 1930s, Korea's fine art community focused on traditional viewpoints as their main topic. The traditional viewpoints were discussed mainly by Korean students studying in Japan, especially oil painters. Such discussions on tradition can be divided into two separate halves, namely the pre- and post-Sino-Japanese War (1937) periods. Before the war, the modernists among Korea's fine art community tried to gain a fuller understanding of contemporary Western modern art, namely, expressionism, futurism, surrealism, and so forth, on the basis of Orientalism, and borrow from these schools' in order to create their own works. Furthermore, proponents of Joseon's avant-garde fine arts and artists of the pro-fine art school triggered debate on the traditional viewpoints. After the Sino-Japanese War, these artists continued to embrace Western modern art on the basis of Orientalism. However, since Western modern fine art was regressing into Oriental fine art during this period, Korean artists did not need to research Western modern fine art, but sought to study Joseon's classics and create Joseon's own avant- garde fine art in a movement led by the Munjang group. This research reviews the traditional view espoused by the Munjang group, which represented the avant-garde fine art movement of the post-war period. Advocating Joseon's own current of avant-garde fine art through the Munjang literary magazine, Gil Jin - seop, Kim Yong-jun and others accepted the Japanese fine art community's methodology for the restoration of classicism, but refused Orientalism as an ideology, and attempted to renew their perception of Joseon tradition. The advocation of the restoration of classicism by Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun appears to be similar to that of the Yasuda Yojuro-style restoration of classicism. However, Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun did not seek their sources of classicism from the Three-Kingdoms and Unified Silla periods, which Japan had promoted as a symbol of unity among the Joseon people; instead they sought classicism from the Joseon fine art which the Japanese had criticized as a hotbed of decadence. It was the Joseon period that the Munjang group chose as classicism when Japan was upholding Fascism as a contemporary extremism, and when Hangeul (Korean writing system) was banned from schools. The group highly evaluated literature written in the style of women, especially women's writings on the royal court, as represented by Hanjungnok (A Story of Sorrowful Days). In the area of fine art, the group renewed the evaluation of not only literary paintings, but also of the authentic landscape paintings refused by, and the values of the Chusa school criticized as decadent by, the colonial bureaucratic artists, there by making great progress in promoting the traditional viewpoint. Kim Yong-jun embraced a painting philosophy based on the painting techniques of Sasaeng (sketching), because he paid keen attention to the tradition of literary paintings, authentic landscape paintings and genre paintings. The literary painting theory of the 20th century, which was highly developed, could naturally shed both the colonial historical viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as heteronomical, and the traditional viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as decadent. As such, the Munjang group was able to embrace the Joseon period as the source of classicism amid the prevalent colonial historical viewpoint, presumably as it had accumulated first-hand experience in appreciating curios of paintings and calligraphic works, instead of taking a logical approach. Kim Yong-jun, in his fine art theory, defined artistic forms as the expression of mind, and noted that such an artistic mind could be attained by the appreciation of nature and life. This is because, for the Munjang group, the experience of appreciating nature and life begins with the appreciation of curios of paintings and calligraphic works. Furthermore, for the members of the Munjang group, who were purists who valued artistic style, the concept of individuality presumably was an engine that protected them from falling into the then totalitarian world view represented by the Nishita philosophy. Such a 20th century literary painting theory espoused by the Munjang group concurred with the contemporary traditional viewpoint spearheaded by Oh Se-chang in the 1910s. This theory had a great influence on South and North Korea's fine art theories and circles through the Fine Art College of Seoul National University and Pyongyang Fine Art School in the wake of Korea's liberation. In this sense, the significance of the theory should be re-evaluated.

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중국 현대미술에서의 판화 매체 확장을 일으킨 쉬빙(徐冰) 작품 연구 (A Study on Xu Bing's artworks Contributed to expansion of printmaking in Contemporary Chinese Art)

  • 송대섭;조예인
    • 만화애니메이션 연구
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    • 통권45호
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    • pp.321-343
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    • 2016
  • 본 논문에서는 중국 문화대혁명 이후 마오쩌둥(모택동(毛澤東), 1893-1976)의 공산당 통제에서 벗어나 새로운 시대를 준비하는 정치적, 사회적인 배경과 서구 모더니즘의 급속한 유입과 이를 통한 중국 내 전위적인 미술계 움직임 등을 살펴보고, 이러한 흐름 속에서 중국 판화 매체 확장에 기여한 쉬빙((徐冰), 1955~)의 작품을 중심으로 다루어 보고자 했다. 특히 1985년을 기점으로 미술계 젊은 작가들을 중심으로 일어난 '85신조미술운동(85新潮美術運動)'과 1989년 베이징에서 개최한 <<중국현대예술전(中國現代藝術展)>>은 기존의 중국 미술로부터 새로운 변화를 보여주는 중요한 이슈이다. 역사적인 변혁과 새로움을 지향하고자 했던 '85신조미술운동' 작가들은 자신들만의 민간 전시회를 주도하는 등 활발한 움직임을 펼쳤다. 이러한 미술계 흐름 속에 문화대혁명 이후, 국가미술관인 베이징 중국미술관에서 대규모 전시회를 개최하여 행위예술, 설치미술, 회화, 조각 등 다양한 시각예술 작가들의 작품을 전시하였지만, 대담한 행위예술과 노골적인 설치작업 등으로 정부로부터 두 차례 전시 중단이 되는 초유의 사태가 벌어졌으며, 일부 작가들은 행위예술을 펼치다 경찰서에 연행되기도 하였다. 이러한 분위기 가운데 판화를 전공한 쉬빙은 초반에 그가 관심을 가졌던 판화가 갖고 있는 제작과정과 반복이라는 특성에 주목한 실험들을 보여주는 작업을 하다가, 1988년 그의 대표작인 <천서(天書)>(1988)를 제작하기에 이른다. 쉬빙은 직접 글자를 고안하고 나무에 새겨 2000여개의 문자를 만들었고, 그것을 단순히 인쇄 책자 형태를 넘어선 설치작품으로 관람객들에게 보여줌으로서 그는 서구의 미술 형식을 취하면서도 '한자'라는 중국적인 내용을 결합한 아방가르드 작가로 호평을 받았다. 그러나 그 다음 해인 <<중국현대예술전>>에서 <천서>가 가혹한 평가를 받고난 후, 쉬빙은 중국에서의 마지막 작업인 <담장을 두드리는 귀신(귀타장(鬼打墻))>(1990)을 1990년에 제작만하고 전시는 하지 못한 채 결국 미국으로 건너가게 된다. 그 당시 중국 사회는 천안문사태라는 엄청난 소용돌이와 함께 문화대혁명의 소멸과 덩샤오핑(등소평(鄧小平), 1904-1997)의 개혁기를 맞이하며 혼란한 시대를 보내고 있었다. 본 연구에서는 쉬빙의 초기 판화작업부터 1991년 미국으로 도미하기 전까지의 작품들을 살펴봄으로써 판화 매체가 지닌 재생산성, 복수성 등의 특성을 활용한 형식적 실험들을 거쳐 어떻게 중국 전통적 요소를 활용하여 시대를 대표하는 아방가르드 작가로 될 수 있었는지를 고찰해보고자 하였다.