• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.159-166
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• 2014

Beatrix Farrand was America's first female landscape architect and Dumbarton Oaks in Washington, D.C., USA site of her best known garden design. The purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of the American Neoclassical tendencies in the early 1900s and Farrand's style through an analysis of Dumbarton Oaks. The results of analysis indicated that although Dumbarton Oaks was influenced by many European classic gardens, the garden has the unique style which reflects regional contexts and culture based on the philosophy of arts and crafts movement, The major characteristics of the late Neoclassical style in America can be summarized as follows. First, A series of terraced gardens were connected by paths and stairways and natural terrain was preserved as much as possible. Second, the formal and informal style coexist and the symmetric and asymmetric forms are well-balanced throughout the garden. Third, selection of plant materials and planting methods, influenced by both classical gardens and the Arts and Crafts style in UK, are in harmony with the space configuration and shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.17-44
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• 1997

Medieval European practical art and style of costume is studied through referring to the literatures. The type of clothing that was seen on tapestries arts and crafts paintings and wall paintings and appeared in the architecture such as church. There were symbolic aspects of color motifs at this period and some restraints for clothing according to the social class, It was a period that draped garments due to the War of Crusades is appeared. Be-cause the medieval taste and decorative character is not only 'formative art' but also the taste beyoud 'mode' and atomsphere of that times it could be seen the strong reflec-tion of customs in the clothing of that times which is shown in works of art. 1) The purpose of Christian art which was found in mosaics stained glasses wall pain-tings and statues of architecture was not just the revival of natural phenomena but visuali-zation of sacred and invisible things. It was valuable to understandin of the spiritual through the sense organ It was a monumental art that was combined with decorative func-tion and role of the Bible. It revealed what was about the religious spiritual miracle, 2) In the medieval European painting characteristic and beautiful creativity was the basis of an argument. Both "Worship of East-ern" that is painted ion a parchment and "Cor-onation of Charles VI" were described decor-ation motifs on the edge of buildings geo-metric patterns and others with outstanding skill. there were precise technologic skill of architect and glassmen and lots of patience of craftsmen. " The Labour of the Months" and the scene of"A Trial at the Court" is also de-scribed elaborately. 3) Tapestry was developed in France Ger-many Swiss at the 14th century. Religionary and historical themes unicorn lady bird flowering plants and others were major motifs. It was very important as decorative wall coverings and as practical door arch and bed hangings. It was made through patient hard work with simple technique and it was con-sidered as an art for practical use. Tapestry was what everyone wish to have. It is reckoned for the item of the best gift. The royalty and nobility ordered and used custom-made tapestries. Sometimes the subject of motifs consisted of series which were deeply related to living 4) Decorative arts and crafts was the art that used materials such as precious metals jewels and others and that accorded with the luxurious and gorgeous taste of the royalty and nobility. Christian considered splendid and beautiful color of light as a symbol of glory. They used also for church appliances, There were metal crafts wood crafts textile crafts and others, As was stated above the costume appeared on the arts and crafts for living revealed the process of changes saw how the politic econ-omic and social organizations were developed.and social organizations were developed.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.350-364
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• 2013

Based on the background of the times and theoretical background that influenced the formation of the works of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, one of representative architects of Art Nouveau, this study examined the formative characteristics of furniture design by period. In addition, his influences on the modern furniture design were also reviewed. In the latter half of the 19th century, due to Arts and Crafts Movement, the popularity of Art Nouveau was not high in England and due to conservative and traditional culture, Mackintosh had difficult time to display his ability in England. On the other hand, because Glasgow, one of industrial cities located in the center of Scotland where he had grown was an open and modern city, Mackintosh could win international fame in architecture and furniture design thanks to the atmosphere. Furthermore, it is found from the formative characteristics of his works that Historicism, Arts and Crafts Movement and Japanese culture and the influences of Continent became his theoretical background. His works creatively combined the noble design of Scotland and Art Nouveau to be considered a simple and pure style with a straight tendency and his working period can be divided into Beginning, Middle and Last Period according to the formative characteristics of furniture design. His constituting principle that decorated the structure influenced the Wien Secession's activities to form Wiener Werkstaette and this finally became the important background to develop to 'Modernism Design' through Art Deco and Bauhaus.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.120-128
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• 2007

This study explored the philosophical Modernity with the Enlightenment in relation to cultural and aesthetic modernism rooted in Modern furniture, which directly reflected modern culture and society with rationality, science, individualism, progressive, universal truths, etc, using qualitative analysis about the related literature as the principal methodology. A fundamental philosophy of the modern furniture influenced by Industrial Revolution is that the dictates of function and industrial technology must be decided by form. The theory and practice of the International Style in modern furniture came from the modern aesthetics in the philosophy of Modernity. As a result, as influenced through the Enlightenment project and the relationship of individual to society in relation to cultural and aesthetic modernism, and the three modern movements with furniture, which are Arts and Crafts movement, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco, represented the beginning style of modern furniture design toward functionalism or minimalism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.14 no.4 s.44
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

Architectural embodiment of a national identity has long been a significant topic in Korean architectural circles. For this reason, it must be helpful to examine the so-called, 'National Romanticism' of Finnish architecture around 1900 in that Finnish architects of the time struggled to embody their national identity through their projects. Considering the historical and linguistic affinities between Finland and Korea, the Finnish architectural situation draws . our additional attention. This paper aims at showing its historical background, the meaning of each type of buildings in the stream, and limitations it implies. The atmosphere of Finnish nationalist movement, which was provoked by [Kalevala] publications (1835; 1845) and shown in Karelianism, was heightened by Tsarist Empire's Russification programme of Finland in the late 19th century Architecture was one of the most important genres expressing her national identity. Finnish national romantic architecture could be divided into three. The first is a log house style for artists' studio house, motivated by the Finnish vernacular farmstead - especially by Karelian farmhouse. This type of building signifies the Finns' will to return to their motherly soil. The second is a stone architecture style for public buildings, inspired by Finnish church or castle of an early medieval time. By using roughly-cut granite as the main exterior material, buildings of this type symbolise the toughness of legendary heroes and Finns' desire for national Independence. The third type of building was based on both of the former or more dependent on architects' Imagination and creativity. However, Finnish national romantic architecture has been criticised by some critics owing to its decorative, eclectic and self-indulgent characteristics. Probably, it was not really national but rather inter-national because of the Influences of English Arts and Crafts Movement, the American Richardsonian architecture and the continental Art Nouveau. And the negative images of 'national' and 'romantic' made some historians coin other terms like 'national realism' or 'material realism'. As another limitation, one raises the low degree of its contribution to the entire architectural history. Despite these criticisms, however, this paper argues that Finnish national romantic architecture is meaningful in itself, particularly because it illustrates vividly Finns' struggle to search for their national identity and, after all, their craving for national independence.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.220-237
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• 2021

This study carried out the conservation treatment for the mattress put on the bed, which is one of 4 items in National Folklore Cultural Heritage, the Red-lacquered Furniture with the inlaid mother-of-pearl design used by Empress Sunjeonghyo (presumed), after identifying the characteristics of the manufacturing techniques and the used materials. And the study intends to compare it with the mattress placed in the Daejojeong in the Changdeokgung Palace in order to identify the characteristics of mattresses domestically used during the 1920s and 1930s. From the analysis of the mattress presumably used by Empress Sunjeonghyo, it was identified that the mattress frame was made of pinaceous hemlock spruce while the webbing and twine in the structural parts were made of jute. The findings are as follows: the burlap had a filling material that was made of jute; the straw mat was made from Oryza; and, the rest of the filling material was cotton. Rayon was used for the top cover while cotton was used for the bottom. As a result of research on the materials and the inner structure, it was found that mattress was manufactured in the form of the upholstery style mainly found in chairs and day-beds in Western furniture. Based on analysis results, materials identical to the original were adopted during the conservation treatment. Next, the process of dismantling, cleaning, repair, reinforcement and assembling was conducted. During the dismantling process, the top cover was newly discovered and some letters (Yokohama, Kobe, and Joseon) were found in the burlap filling, but there was no trace which can clarify its maker or production place. dry cleaning was carried out on the structural parts, filling materials, and the cover, and then the repair and reinforcement were done, preserving the existing materials in the upholstery structure and using the same materials for conservation. The webbing in the structural parts was reinforced using materials identical to the original, and the twine was used for arranging and fixing the springs into wooden frames. For the damaged cotton cloth and burlap, reinforcement materials identical to the original were put over it and sown. For the damaged area of the top cover, reinforcement cloth was cut and then added inside and the damaged area was sown. Assembling was carried out in the reverse order of the dismantling. After the burlap identical to the original material was inserted into the areas in contact with the springs and then fastened, a filling pad, reinforcement cloth, a straw mat, cotton cloth, cotton felt, wide cotton cloth for protecting the cover, and the cover were layered and fastened with tacks. The two mattresses used by Empress Sunjeonghyo differed only by the period of production and followed the same Western upholstery style consisting of the frames, filling materials, and covers. During the conservation treatment process, a velvet cover was newly discovered and the traces of repair in the past were found. Furthermore, identifying straw mats, straw bags, and straws for filling material, this study confirmed changes in the materials used according to the production environment. In the future, it is expected to see changes in the conservation materials during the conservation treatment and manufacturing techniques used for chairs and sofas in the upholstery style belonging to the modern cultural artifacts.