• 건축역사연구
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.45-56
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• 2022

Gachiljang(假漆匠), along with Jinchiljang(眞漆匠), is an important craftsman who cannot be left out during the finishing process of wooden furniture and wooden buildings during the Joseon Dynasty. The current definition of Gachiljang does not properly explain the nature and role of Gachiljang. In many related terminology dictionaries, Gachiljang is defined as "artisan who dose the base paintwork of Dancheong." But an analysis of the Joseon Dynasty's Uigwe(儀軌) shows that Gachiljang appears frequently in works that are not related to Dancheong at all. Therefore the current definition seems to be inaccurate and need to be revised. Gachiljang is a name that contrasts with Jinchiljang, and he makes and paints Myongyu(明油). Just as Jinchiljang uses not only lacquer but also various pigments to paint colorful lacquer, Gachiljang also uses various pigments to decorate buildings or furniture in a fancy way and then finishs with a transparent paint. Even in the Dancheong(丹靑) work of the building, all the base painting and finish coating work will be in charge of Gachiljang, except for the paintings performed by the Whawon(畫員) or the Whasa(畫師).

• 건축역사연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.9-26
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• 1998

Architectural Drawing has been settled down the very effective means of exchanging their architectural ideas and data on the construction process. However, it was not easy to conserve the original drawings, which aims had been accomplished, at the same time, building was built. The same phenomena were occurred in our traditional architectural construction project, especially before pre-modern age. And do not understand soundly building documentation accepted by craftsmen in the period of earliest Chosun dynasty and how to present their idea and information of architectural as means of sketches and drawings. So, this paper aimed to clarify the drawing occurrence and the development steps of their rendering, representation methodology in the construction process in Sannungdogam-Uuigue, which were the construction documents of government based on the royal family's tomb and building projects in the late Chosun Dynasty. There are three development stages of architectural space representation, pre-drawing stage, drawing occurring stage and drawing settlement stage, They had been adapted unique drawing presentation method which were drawn by artisan, so called Doseol(圖說)and Painter Hwawon(畵員) The results are 1. In the Pre-drawing stage, they had been used the systematic explanation method of character 2. Do not have the evidence of adapting drawing before 17th centry, it was originated in early 17's century started with Onga(甕家). Onga's Drawing was drawn very elementary skill, and became development, settlement and standardization of their drawing representation around 19th century 3. The drawing presented by client's recognition view of space and building, integrated data within a sheet of drawing with practical and hierarchy and using graphic and description.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.61-79
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• 2013

This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

• 자원환경지질
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.709-719
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• 2012

콩고민주공화국 동부에 발달하는 주석광화대 중에서 카탕가 주에 위치하는 무완자와 콩골로 지역을 대상으로 광상탐사를 실시하였다. 카탕가 주에 발달하는 대부분의 광상은 주로 화강암류와 연관되며, 북동-남서 방향의 중기원생대의 키바란대 내에 위치한다. 키바란대에 위치하는 변성퇴적암류는 다양한 화성암에 의해 관입을 받았으며, 그중 tin granite(970 Ma)와 연관되어 주석, 니오비움, 탄탈륨 등의 광상이 발달한다. 무완자와 콩골로 지역 광상은 주로 tin granite와 관련된 페그마타이트, 석영맥 또는 그라이젠 부분에 석석, 콜탄, 금 등이 발달하며, 상기 광석을 대상으로 소규모 채광이 이뤄지고 있다. 또한 식생 등의 영향으로 광화대 확인을 위한 노두가 거의 노출되어 있지 않은 지역에서는, 채굴중인 충적층 및 하천퇴적물을 대상으로 조사를 수행하였다. 향후 상기 시료에 대한 화학분석 결과를 바탕으로 잠재 광화대 지역을 선정하여 정밀탐사를 수행할 예정이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• Animal Bioscience
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.904-913
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• 2021

Objective: Marbling or intramuscular fat (IMF) has been widely reported to directly impact the sensory acceptance of meat. This study was carried out to determine the physical and sensory characteristics of ribeye, Longissimus dorsi steaks obtained from four different cattle breeds namely Wagyu, Angus, Brahman, and Malaysian local beef, the Kedah-Kelantan (KK). Methods: The degree of marbling was determined by using an established combined camera-image analysis technique while instrumental texture determination was carried out by using Warner-Bratzler shear force analysis. Sensory evaluation of the beef steaks was performed following a quantitative descriptive analysis incorporating 10 trained consumer panelists. Results: Wagyu was found to possess the highest (p<0.05) percentage of IMF at 33.90% and the lowest shear force (raw = 5.61 N/㎟; cooked = 14.72 N/㎟) followed by Angus (20.87%), Brahman (12.17%), and KK (p<0.05, 6.86%). The difference in sensory properties of the four steaks was evident, with Wagyu appearing to be highly correlated with most sensory attributes measured namely sustained buttery, tooth-packing, chewiness, juiciness, tenderness, mouthfeel, oiliness, and overall acceptability. The Malaysian local beef, KK was found to be less acceptable (p<0.05), although most of its sensory attributes were found similar (p>0.05) in appearance, aroma, texture, juiciness, and flavour to the cooked steak from Angus and Brahman. Conclusion: This present study demonstrated the role of IMF in determining the quality and sensory acceptance of beef from different cattle breeds. These data have provided new information and further understanding on the physical and sensory quality of Malaysian local beef.

• 한국경제지리학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.79-96
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• 2001

일반적으로 클러스터는 첨단기술의 제조업, 특히 IT기반 산업이나 수직적으로 통합된 장인산업 등으로 이루어지며, 대개 벤처자본과 엔젤자몬 등과 함께 다양한 정부의 지원과 사업 인프라를 통해 이르게 성장하는 특성을 보인다. 대부분의 클러스터연구는 이러한 지식기반산업의 군집과 혁신의 특성을 연구한다. 이 연구는 서울 중심부에서 발달한 새로운 형태의 산업클러스터의 특성을 분석한다. 서울의 전형적인 도심주변부로서 지역의 쇠퇴와 교통 혼잡, 환경문제가 심각한 청계천로상의 전문상가로는 지식기반산업이 아니라 의류와 패션산업의 군집으로 인해 가장 역동적이고 혁신적인 지역으로 변모하고 있다. 이러한 새로운 형태의 산업클러스터의 특성과 사회적 자본의 형성에 대한 연구는 클러스터이론과 내분도시의 변화에 대해 새로운 시각을 제시할 수 있을 것이다. 이 글에서 먼저 청계천로 전문상가로의 성장에 대해 간략히 고찰한 후, 새로운 형태의 클러스터의 제도적, 공간적 특성을 살펴본다. 또한 생산-분배-판매-장소소비 등이 한 곳에서 이루어지는 청계천 클러스터의 핵심 구성요소들의 발달과정을, 지역적 네트워킹, 사회적 자본, 제도화, 장소성에 기반한 사회 문화경제적 기제 등의 개념으로 설명한다. 마지막으로 서울의 새로운 산업 클러스터 발전에 대한 전망과 향후 연구과제를 제시한다.

• 한국경제지리학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.53-68
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• 2018

지역사회 기반 생태관광(CBE)은 적절히 설계된다면 사회 경제적 복지를 증진하고 생태 자원을 유지하기 위한 실질적인 방법이 될 수 있다. 이는 특히 개발도상국의 성장과 발전 측면에서 주목할 만하다. 본 연구는 아프리카 가나의 Boabeng-Fiema 원숭이 보호구역 사례를 통해, 전통적인 지역사회 기반 관리 시스템을 지역사회 참여, 공정성, 포괄성 및 다양한 이해관계자들의 파트너쉽 관점에서 평가한다. 본 연구의 분석을 위해서는 심층인터뷰와 질적 자료를 담고 있는 선행연구 분석 기법이 사용되었다. 연구 결과에 따르면, 다수의 인터뷰 대상자가 전통적인 지역사회 기반 시스템이 성공적이라 평가할 수 있다. 그 이유에 대해서 인터뷰 대상자들은 규범, 문화 및 종교적 관습들을 꼽았다. 또한, CBE를 통해 얻은 생계 수단의 증가는 지역 사회의 수용과 참여를 높였다. 하지만 보호구역은 인구 증가 등의 성공을 낳으면서도 동시에, 토지 부족 등의 문제들 또한 낳은 것으로 나타났다. 본 연구는 홈스테이(homestay) 도입, 공예 산업 개발 등을 통해 생계 수단 다양화를 대안으로 제시한다.