• Journal of architectural history
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.45-56
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• 2022

Gachiljang(假漆匠), along with Jinchiljang(眞漆匠), is an important craftsman who cannot be left out during the finishing process of wooden furniture and wooden buildings during the Joseon Dynasty. The current definition of Gachiljang does not properly explain the nature and role of Gachiljang. In many related terminology dictionaries, Gachiljang is defined as "artisan who dose the base paintwork of Dancheong." But an analysis of the Joseon Dynasty's Uigwe(儀軌) shows that Gachiljang appears frequently in works that are not related to Dancheong at all. Therefore the current definition seems to be inaccurate and need to be revised. Gachiljang is a name that contrasts with Jinchiljang, and he makes and paints Myongyu(明油). Just as Jinchiljang uses not only lacquer but also various pigments to paint colorful lacquer, Gachiljang also uses various pigments to decorate buildings or furniture in a fancy way and then finishs with a transparent paint. Even in the Dancheong(丹靑) work of the building, all the base painting and finish coating work will be in charge of Gachiljang, except for the paintings performed by the Whawon(畫員) or the Whasa(畫師).

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.7 no.3 s.16
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• pp.9-26
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• 1998

Architectural Drawing has been settled down the very effective means of exchanging their architectural ideas and data on the construction process. However, it was not easy to conserve the original drawings, which aims had been accomplished, at the same time, building was built. The same phenomena were occurred in our traditional architectural construction project, especially before pre-modern age. And do not understand soundly building documentation accepted by craftsmen in the period of earliest Chosun dynasty and how to present their idea and information of architectural as means of sketches and drawings. So, this paper aimed to clarify the drawing occurrence and the development steps of their rendering, representation methodology in the construction process in Sannungdogam-Uuigue, which were the construction documents of government based on the royal family's tomb and building projects in the late Chosun Dynasty. There are three development stages of architectural space representation, pre-drawing stage, drawing occurring stage and drawing settlement stage, They had been adapted unique drawing presentation method which were drawn by artisan, so called Doseol(圖說)and Painter Hwawon(畵員) The results are 1. In the Pre-drawing stage, they had been used the systematic explanation method of character 2. Do not have the evidence of adapting drawing before 17th centry, it was originated in early 17's century started with Onga(甕家). Onga's Drawing was drawn very elementary skill, and became development, settlement and standardization of their drawing representation around 19th century 3. The drawing presented by client's recognition view of space and building, integrated data within a sheet of drawing with practical and hierarchy and using graphic and description.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.61-79
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• 2013

This study takes a look at the distinct and exclusive culture of Latin America, with a specific focus on Mexico, and attempts to understand its unique cultural identity by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the characteristics of the Mexican fashion brands, Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social, which are brands that have actively used the Latin American cultural identity in its designs. The research method was as follows: 1) performing literature research with specialty publications and thesis that dealt with the two brands 2) analyzing the contents of various articles from the Internet and interviews related to the brands. Thus, this research attempts to understand the characteristics of the fashion brands that use the cultural traits of Latin America in order to dissect its methods and find a way to apply it so that it can be used in different cultures, and in effect, lead to the advancement of the fashion industries, in general. Taller Flora and F$\acute{a}$brica Social are two brands that are able to stand out with a distinct identity by applying traditional native Latin American qualities in its products, as well as its products reflecting a respectful and balanced relationship between people and nature. The characteristics of the two brands are as follows: 1) showing the concept of "the coexistence of diversity" by expressing "the old and the new", "simplicity and flash", and "melding of the Western culture via colonialism and traditional cultures of the aboriginals and other diverse native cultures" 2) achieving "the recovery of the human dignity" by protecting the human rights of the native female artisans and building a network for equality 3) pursuing "free naturalism" by balancing the natural provision of nature and man in addition to promoting environmental protection and conservation of goods 4) becoming "the bridge between communication and exchange" by connecting the artisan, the designer and the consumers together, or the producer and the market, as well as the different cultures of markets from diverse countries.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.709-719
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• 2012

Prospection was performed on the tin mineralized belt in Mwanza and Kongolo areas of Katanga, DR Congo. Most of deposits in Katanga areas are related to the granites which are located in Kibaran belt in NE and SW trends of mid Proterozoic. Metasedimentary rocks in the Kibaran belt are intruded by granites, and tin, niobium and tantalum deposits are especially developed along with tin-granite. Cassiterite, coltan and gold are developed in the pegmatite, quartz vein and greisen in related to the tin-granite in Mwanza and Katanga areas, and they are exploited by artisan in the smale scale. And we conducted the works with the alluviums and stream sediments in the case of no outcrops. With the results of analysis of samples, we will choose a few potential mineralized zones and con-tinue to prosepect precisely.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• Animal Bioscience
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.904-913
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• 2021

Objective: Marbling or intramuscular fat (IMF) has been widely reported to directly impact the sensory acceptance of meat. This study was carried out to determine the physical and sensory characteristics of ribeye, Longissimus dorsi steaks obtained from four different cattle breeds namely Wagyu, Angus, Brahman, and Malaysian local beef, the Kedah-Kelantan (KK). Methods: The degree of marbling was determined by using an established combined camera-image analysis technique while instrumental texture determination was carried out by using Warner-Bratzler shear force analysis. Sensory evaluation of the beef steaks was performed following a quantitative descriptive analysis incorporating 10 trained consumer panelists. Results: Wagyu was found to possess the highest (p<0.05) percentage of IMF at 33.90% and the lowest shear force (raw = 5.61 N/㎟; cooked = 14.72 N/㎟) followed by Angus (20.87%), Brahman (12.17%), and KK (p<0.05, 6.86%). The difference in sensory properties of the four steaks was evident, with Wagyu appearing to be highly correlated with most sensory attributes measured namely sustained buttery, tooth-packing, chewiness, juiciness, tenderness, mouthfeel, oiliness, and overall acceptability. The Malaysian local beef, KK was found to be less acceptable (p<0.05), although most of its sensory attributes were found similar (p>0.05) in appearance, aroma, texture, juiciness, and flavour to the cooked steak from Angus and Brahman. Conclusion: This present study demonstrated the role of IMF in determining the quality and sensory acceptance of beef from different cattle breeds. These data have provided new information and further understanding on the physical and sensory quality of Malaysian local beef.

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.79-96
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• 2001

This paper introduces a new type of industrial cluster developed at the CBD of Seoul. Conventionally, clusters are said to be consisted of hi-tech, often If activities, manufacturing industries or artisan craft industries with increasing vertical integration and performance usually supported by venture capitals and favorable business infrastructure, not to mention governments', be it central or local, incentive plans. The study area, Cheonggyechon region has long been a traditional CBD frame of Seoul, Korea, being troubled by deterioration, traffic jams, and environmental degradation as most inner cities experience. Recently. this region has transformed to the most dynamic and productive area not by IT industries but by apparel and fashion activities. The study of the developmental trajectory and key characteristics for this kind of industrial cluster can give us insight both for the transition of inner city and for the cluster theory. This Paper firstly briefly Profiles the growth of the Cheonggyechon region over the past decade. It then shows the current spatial and business structure of the new industrial cluster, focusing on the fact that transactions costs are reduced, the creation and flow of information improves. and the local institutions are prone to be most responsive to the new cluster's specialized needs. The third section presents the key components of the customized production-distribution-shopping cluster development process, emphasizing the localized networking. social capital, spontaneous institutionalization of associational economic climate, and cultural economy based on place-specific inertia. The paper concludes with some comments about the prospects and perils of the new industrial cluster of Seoul.

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.53-68
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• 2018

Community-based ecotourism (CBE), if well-developed can be a practical approach for promoting socio-economic well-being and sustaining ecological resources. The growth and its development worldwide especially in developing economies is a welcome development. The study aimed at assessing the Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary in Ghana, as an example of traditional conservation system of management that has ensured greater community participation, equity, inclusiveness, and multi-level stakeholder partnership. In-depth interviews with key informants and documentary analysis of relevant peer reviewed and grey literature were the main qualitative data collection used. Results revealed that majority of the interviewees support and value the current system of traditional management. The enforcement of rules and regulations and other cultural and religious practices were discussed by key informants. Opportunities for multiple livelihood strategies as a result of the CBE is seen as critical for increasing local's acceptance and participation. The remarkable growth of the sanctuary, as well as the increase in human population, has created a shortage of land for domestic and other commercial purposes which is identified as posing a major challenge to the sustenance of the sanctuary. The study recommends diversification of livelihood opportunities presented by the presence of the sanctuary like the introduction of homestay concept, craft making- wood carving, painting, artisan shops.