• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.12-27
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to study main characters' (Roxie Hart, Velma Kelly) costumes and color images in the movie "Chicago". First, regarding the costumes and color images in characters, Roxie's straight silhouette slip in skin tone reflected her frailty and monotonous routines in reality. On the other hand, a white beaded dress showed her fame-hungry and self-absorption in fantasy. Also, a low waistline blue dress and a see-through black dress with a white collar were to disguise her guilt and draw sympathy to win a suitcase. Black and contrasting colors of red and blue body-suit style dresses expressed Velma's sensual attraction, aggressiveness, and desperation. Second, these images were reinforced by color images in the backgrounds in the film. On the scene of Velma's 'cell block tango', black and red showed her strong character. Contrasting colors of the red and blue expressed Velma's desire and despair in her act of 'the desperation'. As for images of black color on Roxie's stages, they represented her self-absorption and frustration of failing to attract public attention. On the ending of duet performance of Roxie and Velma, the yellow of the background expressed success and joy in life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to find the aesthetic characteristics of costume design as mise-en-scène in movie 'The Danish Girl'. the methods of this study was carried out prior research, literature studies and qualitative research of visual content analysis by DVD. The spatial and temporal scope of the study is Copenhagen, Denmark from 1926 to 1931, and Paris, France. The styles of the times(1925 ~ 1931) and the spatial sensibilities of women's costumes in terms of form and color were examined thorough out the story. As the results, the costume are based on the 1920's Art Deco style like straight silhouette and some of them are oval soft silhouette. The colors are harmonized or in conflict based on Nordic colors such as blue-green, gray and yellow. Rather than expressing the internal conflict between the two main characters, the costume was focused on the role and character. And also exotic tastes like Japanese and Egyptian textiles patterns and decorations. Therefore, it was found that the movie costume played a role as one of the very important mise-en-scène.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

The Wiener Werkstatte created the most avangarde textile designs in Europe at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. This study is to examine the distinctive characteristics of the textile design of the Wiener Werkstatte. The purpose of this study is to analyze the textile designs of the various designers who had contributed to shape the characteristics of the Wiener Werkstatte at various stages, and to catagorize the designs according to the subject matter, the design sources, the layout, the design principles, and the usages. The textiles of the first half of the Wiener Werkstatte are wovens for the homefurnishings. They were used as upolsteries. Wall coverings, and curtains in the commissioned buildings and houses which Hoffman designed and built in conjunction with the Wiener Werkstatte. The designs of this period have the simple and bold characteristics using less then three colors in a design. The subject matters used in the designs are firstly, stylized animals and plant forms; secondly, the purely geometric forms derived from the architural buildings. The textiles of the latter half of the Wiener Werkstatte put more emphasis on the printed textiles for the women's apparels. The textile designs of this period are categorized into four groups : firstly, the designs that stylized plant forms ; secondly, reinterpretational designs; thirdly, ethnic designs : and fourthly, the geometric art deco designs. The number of colors used in a design range up to 7 colors and all over, stripe, and ogee layouts are used.