• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.105-110
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• 2007

With the beginning of seventeenth century, the men in France royal palace began to wear wigs and by eighteenth century wig became sole possession of men. Then, it had been become a satire thing filling one side of the era with the pouf that had been for women. All these things were closely related with the unstable social situation. The bourgeoisie expressed the anger for the privilege that come from the disparity of class consciousness. The reaction against the discriminative treatment by the illuminists stimulated the outbreak of the French Revolution on 14th, July in 1789. This paved way of characterizing the wig styles of the time. The symbolism of cultural-historical meaning in the west is not confined only in Europe. The worship of hair that is different from one cultural area to another had started with their own unique taboo consciousness and had developed to the form speaking for the expression of masculine, the symbol of man power and the extravagance of the privileged class.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.97-102
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• 2020

VR Art는 기술의 진보로 인하여 표현에 대한 제약이 없어졌다고 하지만 한계점이 존재한다는 것은 분명한 사실이다. VR 아티스트들의 작업 형태를 분류해 보면 크게 두 가지로 나누어 볼 수 있는데, 첫 번째는 공연과 같은 작업을 하는 퍼포먼스형 작가군이 있다. 이 경우는 작가가 VR 기기를 쓰고 작업을 하기 때문에 관객들의 반응을 알 수 없고, 관객들은 VR 기기를 쓰지 않고 스크린으로만 작품을 감상하기 때문에 작품을 온전하게 체험할 수 없다는 한계가 존재한다. 모든 관객들에게 VR 기기를 착용하게 하면 해결되는 문제지만 천문학적인 비용이 들고 기기의 관리에 대한 또 다른 문제가 발생한다. 이는 기술의 발달로 VR 기기의 가격이 내려간다면 해결 할 수 있을 것이다. 두 번째로는 자신의 작품을 상시적으로 온라인상에 올려 전시하는 전시형 작가군이 있다. 이 경우는 VR을 활용한 예술 작품은 가상의 디지털 공간에만 남아 있는 것이 한계로 지적된다. 해결 방안은 기존의 예술 전시회처럼 전시장에 공간을 만들고 관람자들을 위한 VR 기기를 마련해 놓으면 가능하다. 기존의 예술 작품 관람을 위한 갤러리가 있는 것처럼 VR 예술 작품의 전시 및 관람을 위한 전시 공간이 만들어진다면 VR Art의 정착과 발전에 큰 도움이 될 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.74-87
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• 2012

Many fashion designers were inspired by arts. Not only arts itself but also the sprit of the artist links with fashion. This study based on French artist Yves Klein who died in 1962, at the age of 34. Klein created over a thounsand works in only seven years. Among the his various art collections, it is focused on Yves Peintures, I.K.B(International Klein Blue) and Sponge sculpture. The extracted some of core concepts including aesthetic of Klein about color and line, space perception in monochrome and expansion of monochrome toward three dimensional sponge sculptures were transformed into fashion design. As a result, Yves Sweats project, which is T-shirts project based on Yves Peintures, designed as a three-dimentional expansion of Monochrome and it was shown at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Tranoi homme trade show in Paris. Also Yves Klein collection was designed as a ready-to-wear menswear collection that was presented at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Seoul Fashion Week.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• 한국정보처리학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국정보처리학회 2021년도 추계학술발표대회
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• pp.647-650
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• 2021

The most powerful and modern face recognition techniques are using deep learning methods that have provided impressive performance. The outbreak of COVID-19 pneumonia has spread worldwide, and people have begun to wear a face mask to prevent the spread of the virus, which has led existing face recognition methods to fail to identify people. Mainly, it pushes masked face recognition has become one of the most challenging problems in the face recognition domain. However, deep learning methods require numerous data samples, and it is challenging to find benchmarks of masked face datasets available to the public. In this work, we develop a new simulated masked face dataset that we can use for masked face recognition tasks. To evaluate the usability of the proposed dataset, we also retrained the dataset with ArcFace based system, which is one the most popular state-of-the-art face recognition methods.