• Title/Summary/Keyword: Art Nouveau

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Psychedelic Image expressed in costume (복식에 나타난 싸이키델릭 이미지)

  • 안선경;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.147-158
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    • 1999
  • This study focused on situational simularity of psychedelic expressed in the mid-1960s with culture including costume in the end of 20th century. So this study is composed of psychedelic concept and the comparision of temporal background and general characteristics of psychedelia in the 1960s and 1990s and relationship with Art-Nouveau which has originated psychedelia and psycheelic image including mysticism play illusionism and narcissism. The New psychedelic revival of the early 1980s came at a time when as in the mid-1960s the world's attentions were firmly focused on British youth. The same could be said of the mid-1990s when 'BriPop' once again has international appeal and the result has been a kind of New New Psychedelic revival with all manner of British youth styles from the 1960s blended together. The swirling patterns hallucinogenic colors and space-aged designs of the psychedelics have become a symbolic representation of cocktail of youth sex and optimism

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A Study of Costume on Gustav Klimt's Paintings (구스타프 클림트 회화에 표현된 의상에 관한 연구)

  • Jang, Sung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.2 s.161
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    • pp.280-291
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

A Study on the Origins of Modernity in the Soma Delaunay's Fashion Design (소니아 들로네(Sonia Delaunay)의 의상디자인에 나타난 모더니티(modernity)의 근원에 관한 연구 -1910년대~1930년대를 중심으로-)

  • Hyun Sun-Hee;Bae Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.2 s.92
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    • pp.18-32
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

The Process of Development and Architectural Characteristics of Secular Stained Glass in the 20th century (20세기 비종교적 스테인드글라스의 전개과정과 건축적 특성)

  • Kim, Jung-Shin
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.3-10
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    • 2008
  • This study is concerned with the process of development and architectural characteristics of secular stained glass in the 20th century. Stained glass had been architectural art from the origin. But it had declined since the Renaissance era, and began to revive in the early 20th century. Stained glass work is very flourish in Korea today, but it is still treated as simple decoration or 2-dimensional mosaic. Architect and interior designer even have little understanding of architectural character of stained glass. In order to recover the architectural nature of stained glass, I have considered the process of development of secular stained glass in the 20th century, and analysed the works of Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists, Georg Meistermann, Ludwig Schaffrath, Johannes Schreiter, and English artist, Brian Clarke. Major findings of the study are as followings : First, stained glass has come to life again from the secular glass painting decoration in the end of the 19th century, through Art-Nouveau, De Stil, Bauhaus in the beginning of the 20th century, and L'Art $Sacr\acute{e}$. Second, Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists and Brian Clarke have established the architectural concept and potentiality of the modem stained glass in the secular field. Third, They have done by coming back to the basic creative method by traditional lead-came technique in spite of the development of various materials and techniques. Forth, stained glass fundamentally has architectural characteristics as the characters of Space, Time, Place, Context, and they have showed the new possibility of stained glass by recovery of these characters.

Priori Characteristics of Modern Housing Implemented in the Works of Otto Wagner at the Fin de siècle (Fin de siècle 시기 오토 바그너의 집합주택 작품에 구현된 근대주거의 선험적 특질)

  • Jun, Nam-Il
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.45-59
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of the present study is to figure out what the issues faced by architecture were at the time immediately before the transition to modern era centering of the works of Otto Wagner who acted in Vienna, Austria at the Fin de $si{\grave{e}}cle$. Therefore, the following points were examined in the present study; first, how were new spaces necessary to accommodate modern lives organized and how were the plans changed; second, how did the external expressions of architecture pursued by Otto Wagner appeared between arts and technologies, between historicism and modernity, and between decorations and functions. Through the study, it could be seen that Wagner began from historicism and traditionalism and tried to compromise them with modernity. Many modern characteristics appeared a priori in Wagner's works from the construction of 'Linke Wien Zeile housing block' in 1898, his works completely broke from the typical historicism styles to open the period of inventive 'Secession styles.' At that time, Wagner concentrated on so called 'flat decorations.' Thereafter, his residential architecture completed to modern styles with 'Neustiftgasse housing block' as the peak. The characteristics of modern housing as above became a cornerstone of the modern functionalism later.

A Study on the Characteristics of Ecological Design in Modern Architecture space (근대건축공간의 생태적 디자인 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Rhee Youn-Hee
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.14 no.5 s.52
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    • pp.52-61
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    • 2005
  • Ecological traces appearing in contemporary architecture are based on modern architecture and most aspects on the contemporary architecture are related with the successive trend or break of the modern architecture. The concept of environment in the modern age has established clear destination, as it has been considered as nature. The architecture under a mechanical world view in the modem age has sustained the opposing connection with nature as environment. However, there have been architects maintaining the sympathy with nature in that vortex. This trend has been regarded as same context as ecological architecture and estimated to the outpost of ecological characteristics appearing in the contemporary architecture. This study is to make it clear that the ecological manifestation in the contemporary architecture is based on the ecology in the modem architecture through considering ecological ideals of architects in the modern architecture and considering space composition and structural properties in the modern architecture of ecological paradigm. The scope of this study contains spacial analysis, design strategy, and design types of organic architecture in nature, which has appeared from the modern age. First, the division into period is carried out according to the organic tendency of non-mainstream in the modern architecture: Arts and Crafts Movement, Art Nouveau, Sezession, Expressionism, Organic Architecture, Regionalism, Internationalism. Therefore, this study is significant to be on the search for a start to suggest ecological point of view to architectural space in modern architecture and is search organic characteristics for ecological characteristics in modern architecture; organic relation, thermal buffer space, regionalism, multi-layer, energy efficiency.

A Study on a Hungarian Architect $\ddot{O}d\ddot{o}n$ Lechner's Ethnographic Approach to His Architecture (헝가리인 건축가 오돈 레허너의 민족지학적 건축에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Jin-Ho;Mecsi, Beatrix
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.7-22
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    • 2007
  • ${\ddot{O}}d{\ddot{o}}n$ Lechner has been known as an architect who incorporates Hungarian folk motifs in creating a highly original Hungarian national style. Nevertheless, his work has been surprisingly neither exposed nor familiar to Korean audiences. This article attempts to reveal the unique characteristics of Lechner's architectural thought and ideas along with his buildings in Budapest. First of all, this article presents the evolution of Lechner's architectural thought by dividing his career into four marking periods. They are in chronological order to serve as a record of his architectural career. The authors then discuss his concern on the Hungarian ethnography in architecture while turing away from orthodox classicism. Subsequently, this article analyzes Lechner's three major buildings located at Budapest. By doing so, it attempts to expose his underlying design ideas and to shed light on the most elegant works of the architect. Finally, it marks out Lechner's influences on young Hungarian architects.

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Belle Epoque and Dadaism in the Modern Culture (벨 에포크와 다다이즘 - 근대문화의 총체와 해체)

  • Lee, Byung Soo
    • Cross-Cultural Studies
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    • v.33
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    • pp.171-192
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    • 2013
  • The article is a research about the Belle Epoque era and Dadaism in the modern culture as a whole and separate. The years from 1890s to 1914, is known as the Belle Epoque era, in which the European continent including France had developed the climax of the modern culture after the Renaissance. At the same time, it was the period where the postmodern developments were being spread, leading to the present days. Moreover, the main ideologies in art that led to the cultural advancement of the time were impressionism, cubism, art nouveau, evolutionized painting category, symbolism and futurism. It was a literature category that was maintained to present Dadaism and surrealism. Dadaism began since the magazine, Bulletin Dada was published, originating in 1916 by Tristan Tzara of Zurich, Switzerland during the WWI. The extreme motto that the Dadaists supported was a contradiction, as they had to dissolve from their own art movements and expression techniques. However, until Andre Breton introduced 'Manifeste du Surrealisme' in 1924, the "Dada group" had a tremendous influence in France as an epicenter and rejected the modern cause and art that continued during the time, thus attempting its dissolution. First, they rejected the ideology, ethics and customs of rationalism from the previous system and demonstrate an anarchical and anti-bourgeoisie characteristic. They also reject the French lucid thoughts and the artistic techniques. They strongly emphasized on their motto "The idea is created from the mouth", while reframing from the philosophical ideology and at the same time, attempting to express the psychical unconsciousness. Second, the most important catchphrase that the Dadaists supported was the theory of negation. The question "Why do you write?" connotes the negative consciousness about the artistic value and the stereotyped method of the preexisting writing and drawing. Third, the Dadaists bring forward a radical query about all of the former esthetic and morals, and reveal an admirable resistance spirit. They emphasized on the slogan "Dada, means nothing" and insist on 'the anti-literal Dada, anti-artistic Dada, anti-musical Dada'. The Dadaist movement manifested their resistant spirit and the new artistic spirit through the publication of , , and most importantly through the magazine . Fourth, the Dadaists embodied the volume, density, and quality into an image through the auto-technical, cubistic writings and drawings. They ignored the fixed form of arrangements, verses, and rhymes of a poetic diction. The Dadaists utilized an unfamiliar and inversed expression method of applying the combination of the size of print, or capital letters and lowercase letters, even combining printed and handwritten writings. As presented, the auto-technical and cubistic characteristic of expressing the auto-psychical ideology into writing is called as the radical aesthetic and moral and can be considered as the most essential cause of the Dadaists' avant-garde features. As a conclusion, Dadaism demonstrated dual characteristics of consuming the nutritive elements of the modern culture through the most powerful resistance and liberation of the artistic movement of the Belle Epoque era, where at the same time, it deconstructed the modern art. By revolting against the former grounds and expression techniques, and dominating the era with the new artistic spirit, their resistant actions were artistic movements that symbolized the dissolution of the modern times. Moreover, the Dada's expressionism and resistance of saying "There's nothing" can be evaluated as postmodernity's initiative of outweighing the modern history and opening the door for new period of nowadays.

Transition of Women's Hairstyles after Renaissance to 20th Century (르네상스 이후 20세기에 이르는 여성 헤어스타일의 변천)

  • Lee, Kyung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.15-23
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    • 2007
  • In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

Knitwear Design Applying Hundertwasser's Paintings (훈데르트바서(Hundertwasser) 회화 작품을 응용한 니트웨어 디자인)

  • Jung, Ae-Hee;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2014
  • Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

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