• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1031-1040
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• 1997

This study was done to analyze the body surface developments of armhole area. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The body surface developments showed the characteristics of expansion and contraction of body at armhole area. By arm movements, front armhole lines on the body surface developments of upper arm were slow going, but back armhole lines were full and round. As a whole, armhole line of the back torso was swollen outside especially at backarmpit point area, it seemed like a line of raglan sleeve. 2. Regression Analysis was carried out to adapt armhole line on the upper arm and upper body to bodice and sleeve pattern, following the axillary circumference line and chest breadth line changed to the basic pattern form. As the result, armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$ and 135-180$^{\circ}$ movements deviated from those of standard posture. U-type, clear armhole curve of standard posture turned to V-type, slanting line by arm movements.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.892-900
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• 1998

This study was done to analyze the surface development of upper arm for planning sleeve armhole line. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The surface development by arm movements made the expansion and contraction of upper arm surface changes easily visible. Armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$and 135$^{\circ}$~180$^{\circ}$movements deviated from those of standard posture. 2. According to regression analysis, armhole lines on the upper arm were adapted to sleeve patten, following the axillary circumference line changed to biceps line. Sleeve cap length ranged from armhole/4+2.5cm to armhole/4$\pm$0.5cm. 3. Compared to Rim's pattern method, ascending and descending amounts of armhole lines were represented as fixed values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.315-323
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• 2023

In the diverse modern era, individuals are actively striving to develop and demonstrate their capabilities . As a means of cultivating interest in hanbok and differentiatedabilities , there exists a national qualification verification for hanbok technician. This study focuses on using Saekdong-jeogori pattern that is suitable for design and allows for accurate pattern production in a short time for beginners taking the practical test for hanbok technicians. We analyzed five experimental Saekdong-jeogori patterns, from which the final patterns for research were derived through appearance tests on the first table evaluation and the second outfit evaluation. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-1 for research utilized the body values presented by beginners taking the hanbok technician qualification verification, while the rest were calculated or applied using equivalents. The godae point and armhole depth were calculated based on the chest circumference, and the armhole curve, sleeve shape, doryeon line, and sleeve-end were drawn, regardless of the changes in the figures, using equal parts. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-2 provided activity by vertically lowering the side line from the end of the armhole, and the keotseop line was drawn by moving 1 cm from the width of the Kit to the armhole line. The seopko was raised 0.2 cm from the keotseop reference line and0.2cm , and was supplemented by its connection to a natural curve.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1242-1253
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.